Hey I was wondering if some of the experienced builders would give me the run down on the different glues or epoxies you use for the different applications. Brand names would also be helpful. Thanks
scarf joint
headstock veneer
body wings
body top
fingerboard
frets
neck for a set neck
What am I forgetting?
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Yellow glue is good for all of those joints, most people prefer Titebond, I personally like Elmers Pro-Bond better. I also like to use Gorilla brand poly glue for oily woods such as cocobolo, bloodwood, teak ect.
Epoxy is good for things that the other glues won't bond to or where filling is needed. Installing inlay work comes to mind. It is also good for repair work where previous glues have sealed the wood fibers to the point that new glue won't penetrate any longer. CA is usually easier to use for this sort of repair, but sometimes you just need a little more time to clamp up so epoxy is better.
Some people use it for almost everything. I don't see the advantage.
Epoxy is good for things that the other glues won't bond to or where filling is needed. Installing inlay work comes to mind. It is also good for repair work where previous glues have sealed the wood fibers to the point that new glue won't penetrate any longer. CA is usually easier to use for this sort of repair, but sometimes you just need a little more time to clamp up so epoxy is better.
Some people use it for almost everything. I don't see the advantage.
Greg N
Thanks Greg I read a lot about people using epoxy. Now I see it is not a necessity.
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Has anyone tried the Titebond liquid hide glue for fretboards?
Ive heard it doesnt reach full strength for maybe a year or so, but if its strong enough to keep the fretboard from coming off I'll be happy.
Mike
EDIT: ok, ive found a few () old threads about this, seems that liquid hide isnt so good. Can titebond original can be steamed off just as well (for when the fretboard DOES go wrong)?
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Do earwigs make chutney? - Eddie Izzard Multiscale Build : Team Trace Elliot #61
Has anyone tried the Titebond liquid hide glue for fretboards?
Ive heard it doesnt reach full strength for maybe a year or so, but if its strong enough to keep the fretboard from coming off I'll be happy.
Mike
EDIT: ok, ive found a few () old threads about this, seems that liquid hide isnt so good. Can titebond original can be steamed off just as well (for when the fretboard DOES go wrong)?
Most any yellow glue joint can be seperated with a little heat.
Run away from Titebond Liquid Hide glue. It's soft for ages and after that it's still soft. The fretboard joint is actually a critical structural joint counteracting the strings' tension. Use titebond 1 or Pro-bond.
Most any yellow glue joint can be seperated with a little heat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian
Run away from Titebond Liquid Hide glue. It's soft for ages and after that it's still soft. The fretboard joint is actually a critical structural joint counteracting the strings' tension. Use titebond 1 or Pro-bond.
Cheers!
Next question, thinking ahead to when I need to take off the fingerboard: I heat up my maple fingerboard to separate it from my maple laminated neck, how do I stop the heat melting the glue holding the lams together? If Ive used the same glue to stick the lot together, surely the whole lot will then come apart together?
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Do earwigs make chutney? - Eddie Izzard Multiscale Build : Team Trace Elliot #61
) old threads about this, seems that liquid hide isnt so good. Can titebond original can be steamed off just as well (for when the fretboard DOES go wrong)?
If Ive used the same glue to stick the lot together, surely the whole lot will then come apart together?
