Graphite neck reinforcement gluing

[Geoff St. Germaine]

What is normally used to hold graphite bars into wood? I was thinking of using epoxy, but I'm not sure what would be suitable for this.

[tekhna]

I believe some kind of silicon glue is usually used.

[Suburban]

From what I read, the preferred glue is epoxi.
It's not very easy to find something else that bonds well to both materails...

[gyancey]

Make that good epoxy, like West Systems or System 3. I use Smith's All Wood Epoxy. The 5-minute stuff from the hardware store is basically useless.

[Geoff St. Germaine]

Thanks for the info. I'll check out this Smith's stuff.

[pilotjones]

You could also try PC-7, it's in many hardware stores, very strong, and not at all like the 5-minute syringe stuff. Great adhesion to everything I've used it for so far, except for one tool handle which was probably PE, which is one of the few things listed on the label (if I had read it beforehand) as not suitable. IME definitely works on steel, copper, fiberglass, linoleum, and wood. Sandable also.

[Geoff St. Germaine]

I got some of the West System stuff from a local woodworking shop. I'll see how this stuff works.

[Basschair]

Originally Posted by Geoff St. Germaine

I got some of the West System stuff from a local woodworking shop. I'll see how this stuff works.

Hey Geoff, how did it work out?

[Geoff St. Germaine]

The West System epoxy worked great. Unlike the epoxies I'm used to at work, this stuff is very runny, which made it very nice for gluing in the graphite. It also sands quite readily, so the few undulations along the edges of the graphite cam out easily.

Even though it's pretty expensive, a little went a long way... there is very little waste with this epoxy unlike the more viscous epoxies that I've worked with. I imagine that most of the other epoxies that are for the same application as the West System stuff are similar.

[noahbass]

I realize this is an old thread but...

I use thick cyanoacrylate. It's way quicker than epoxy and probably cheaper.

Also it works great. I had to go back through some old necks (old tenon, we stopped using) and "harvest" some graphite from them and it was a bitch to get the graphite out so that says it's strong enough to me.

[Arx]

Originally Posted by noahbass

I realize this is an old thread but...

I use thick cyanoacrylate. It's way quicker than epoxy and probably cheaper.

Also it works great. I had to go back through some old necks (old tenon, we stopped using) and "harvest" some graphite from them and it was a bitch to get the graphite out so that says it's strong enough to me.

I think cyanoacrylate is probably more expensive. The epoxy's quite pricey, but comes in pretty big cans. When I did the same job on my bass I mixed about 1oz of epoxy, which was plenty. The west systems kit I bought was about $75 IIRC, and has a 32oz of Resin, and a small can of hardener. I figure I used about $2 of epoxy to do the job, and it definitely turned out better than I could have done with CA.

The edge guide on my router slipped a bit and I cut the slot about 1mm to wide for about half of its depth. the epoxy is thin enough that I just dumped it on, and it self leveled, filling the gap nicely. I don't think that would work as well with CA.

[jordan_frerichs]

Originally Posted by gyancey

Make that good epoxy, like West Systems or System 3. I use Smith's All Wood Epoxy. The 5-minute stuff from the hardware store is basically useless.

HAHA i had to use that stuff to put my bloodwood coverplate back together. thanx for the note

[dave251]

I think the trick is a TIGHT fit for the bar, then THIN CA glued leached into the joint. Should suck right in. But as with any wood joint, a TIGHT fit is absolutely essential.

[Arx]

Originally Posted by dave251

I think the trick is a TIGHT fit for the bar, then THIN CA glued leached into the joint. Should suck right in. But as with any wood joint, a TIGHT fit is absolutely essential.

Yeah, but if you're sloppy, epoxy's a better solution.

Another thing to keep in mind, is that CA is pretty weak to shearing forces, Ideally, if you cut the depth perfectly, it will have nowhere to shear to anyway, but I'd still use epoxy, even if I did cut it perfectly. Just my opinion though. YMMV

[Rodent]

the two graphite stiffening bars in my necks are epoxied into place. I'm fond of System3 products, but other brands work equally well

all the best,

R