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08-19-2008, 05:47 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | | Instead of maple strips or wooden covers, I'll see if I can find some pickup rings. | 
08-19-2008, 05:55 PM
|  | Don't ask me why, I don't know....... Luthier: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | | Good job, Awesome fit on that neck pocket. | 
08-19-2008, 05:58 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Alembicplyr Good job, Awesome fit on that neck pocket. | Thanks. I actually traced the neck onto the MDF, then veeerry slowly cut it with the scroll saw so it would be right on the lines. Got a stiff neck (my neck), but the fit is really nice.
MX | 
08-20-2008, 07:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Miami, FL | | | this bass looks great. interested in the sound later on. nice vibe on this headless 5er.
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08-23-2008, 09:42 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Rough trimmed the fretboard on the scroll saw, installed the truss rod in the neck pocket with a little silicone, and glued the fretboard on the neck:
Got the edges flush and corners rounded on the belt sander:
With all the parts laid on it to see how it will look:  | 
08-23-2008, 11:31 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Orem, Ut | | | I am very impressed. It looks awesome for your first build. I have always loved the Axstars, depending on how this turns out you might be getting a couple orders!
LOL | 
08-30-2008, 07:18 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Routed the "swoosh"-shaped recess around the neck pocket:
After doing this, I realized I might have avoided cutting the slot in the fretboard for the truss rod access. Looks like I could have used a hex-ended rod and accessed it just underneath the end of the fretboard, since the "swoosh" left some space there.
Stuck a piece of music wire in the headpiece so I could see where the piece needed to be aligned on the end of the neck:
Sanded a bevel on the end of the fretboard. I didn't intend to bevel past the zero fret slot. This is what happens with a powerful belt sander that can sand off wood (and the tip of your finger) in a split second. I hope this doesn't cause me trouble with the zero fret being too low.
Another glamour shot: 
Last edited by MX21 : 08-30-2008 at 07:39 PM.
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08-30-2008, 07:29 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Harlow, Essex, UK | | | I am liking the look of this bass alot can wait to see/hear the finished product.
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Yamaha TRB 1005 5 String club #151 Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic assassin who tucks their shirt in anyway? id rather play with my entire upper body on fire.. | | 
08-30-2008, 07:37 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Arpeggiator I am liking the look of this bass alot can wait to see/hear the finished product. | I can hardly wait also. I have to force myself to not rush the build so I don't make some big mistakes. | 
08-30-2008, 09:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia | | | Awesome work!
that zero fret bevel is going to cause problems, I fear...
I think you'd better start considering corrective actions. | 
08-30-2008, 09:21 PM
|  | The King! | | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by PilbaraBass Awesome work!
that zero fret bevel is going to cause problems, I fear...
I think you'd better start considering corrective actions. | Would a brass nut work there, or is there no room for a nut on a headless bass?
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08-30-2008, 09:54 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | | My thought was that I may just have to make a zero fret out of brass or something, so I can make it a bit higher. | 
08-30-2008, 10:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Singapore | | | I think it's time to consider using a nut instead of a zero fret, i fear.
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08-30-2008, 10:23 PM
| | | | You are very talented. It looks awesome.
If you haven't considered it, you might want to check out Birchwood Casey "Tru Oil" as a finish. Many builders have used it in the past. It is a gunstock drying oil. Musicman uses it for their necks. Definitely read all you can on it before trying though - wouldn't want you to ruin that beautiful job! | 
08-30-2008, 10:44 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Cut templates for the control cavity and cover:
and routed the cavity:  | 
08-30-2008, 11:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: New York | | | wow, i can't believe you've done all this work in such a short time. for your first build you seem pretty experienced with quite the arsenal of tools. you must have had wood working experience in the past? what other things have you done to get your wood working chops up to snuff? | 
08-30-2008, 11:13 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mozarwasagenius You are very talented. It looks awesome.
If you haven't considered it, you might want to check out Birchwood Casey "Tru Oil" as a finish. Many builders have used it in the past. It is a gunstock drying oil. Musicman uses it for their necks. Definitely read all you can on it before trying though - wouldn't want you to ruin that beautiful job! | I've got Tung oil and a spar urethane to try. I'm saving all the scraps to try the different finishes on and see how they come out. I'll check out the Tru Oil. I've used the spar urethane before and it worked well for me. | 
08-30-2008, 11:22 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Grass Valley, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicevan wow, i can't believe you've done all this work in such a short time. for your first build you seem pretty experienced with quite the arsenal of tools. you must have had wood working experience in the past? what other things have you done to get your wood working chops up to snuff? | Seems like it is taking me a long time. I started planning on July 3rd. Cutting wood started about the last week of July.
I've only done a little woodworking before - made a box, a few picture frames, a shelf, some sword handles/scabbards. Fairly simple stuff. I'm just making sure I take this slow with lots of planning. Measure ten times and cut once. If you look back through this thread, you'll see I am making small mistakes here and there. I may have to build a second one after this to get it right.
Actually, I make most of the mistakes on the templates. A couple of the templates I've had to remake. Once I have a template though, it is fairly straightforward to pattern route the real part. Also, I'm drawing everything to scale on the computer first to make sure things fit and plan how I'm going to do things before I do it.
MX | 
08-31-2008, 04:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Alpharetta (Milton) GA Georgia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MX21 Sanded a bevel on the end of the fretboard. I didn't intend to bevel past the zero fret slot. This is what happens with a powerful belt sander that can sand off wood (and the tip of your finger) in a split second. I hope this doesn't cause me trouble with the zero fret being too low. | First of all, beautiful work. Only comment (and catty, jealous, and petty at that! =) is on the above statement....
Block planes! Even a tuned up Stanley #3 would have saved you that problem.
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08-31-2008, 04:26 PM
| | | | yep, I think a brass nut would be a good way to go. Perhaps you could just widen the fret slot and use a fairly thin piece, so it's somewhere between a nut and a normal fret.
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