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  #1  
Old 06-02-2012, 07:04 PM
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Hohner B2AV-WS headless 5 String Modification

Hohner B2AV-WS headless 5 String Modification

Dear friends: I have acquired this Hohner bass with the plan to reconfigure it into a short-scale headless 5-string. The distance from the 2nd to the 14th fret is exactly 15 inches, which gives a perfect 30 “ scale. The plan, and reason I’m doing this on relatively cheap but playable headless bass, is to saw off the neck just behind the 2nd fret. Then I will trim the head at the 0 fret, and shorten the neck by 3 3/4” (90 mm). The head can easily be glued and screwed back on, and with a string adaptor, I’m in business.
The problem is what to do about the truss rod. I’m asking for any advice anybody might have about what is involved in shortening it. I haven’t done anything yet, but I’m assuming that I can just remove it by unscrewing it, pulling it out of the neck, then figure out some way to shorten the rod and reinstall it. But I don’t want to try to remove it and wind up damaging the neck. I don’t want to get involved with removing the fingerboard if possible.
Any thoughts on how to do this?
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2012, 07:34 PM
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Other than the headless part, wouldn't it be easier to tune to DGCF and then capo the second fret?
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2012, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ourworldisgrey View Post
Other than the headless part, wouldn't it be easier to tune to DGCF and then capo the second fret?
I did try that; if the business with the truss rod can't be solved, then that would be the next best solution. I would need to use slightly heavier strings and adjust the action, but that would work. I'm ancient, and I have trouble with a full scale bass, or I'd just play it as is.

Thanks!
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2012, 01:34 AM
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I'm not sure what kind of a truss rod is in Hohner neck. I'd make something like Status BendWell (not as deep, maybe a bit shallower than the fretboard) if I wanted to make a 34" scale headless neck to a 30" scale neck.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ever1993/5600887716/

Marko
  #5  
Old 06-03-2012, 02:00 AM
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This sounds so wrong that I must encourage you. Also- please post pics.
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2012, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPU View Post
I'm not sure what kind of a truss rod is in Hohner neck. I'd make something like Status BendWell (not as deep, maybe a bit shallower than the fretboard) if I wanted to make a 34" scale headless neck to a 30" scale neck.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ever1993/5600887716/

Marko
Thanks for the suggestion and the photo. This could also work.

Larry
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2012, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lavrans View Post
Thanks for the suggestion and the photo. This could also work.

Larry
Hmm. I went to the Status website, and this is a modification they build into a 32" headless bass. However, some home-made version of this idea may be useful to me.
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:34 AM
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AFter much research and an exchange of emails with the Hohner guys, I am convinced that the only way to do this mod by physically shortening the neck at the head is to take it to a good luthier, have the finger board removed, and then modify or replace the truss rod. I have no idea exactly how the TR is structured or imbedded in the neck. Judging by a number of posts on the topic, it seems to be fragile, prone to breakage and other screw-ups.
So for now, I'm going to go with the capo on the 2nd fret solution. With the right gauge strings and the action adjusted, this seems to work fine. I found an online source for fret marker decals. Unless I get some new and more useful info about the dag-bladdet truss rod, that will be my mod. Thanks to all who contributed to the dialog.
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  #9  
Old 09-17-2012, 02:05 PM
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Update. I have successfully gotten the neck shortened to a short scale, with the original 2nd fret now the 0 fret. The truss rod was totally frozen, so we sawed it off and hope it will just add some stability. The fret-board was not really removable. The job was by DK Parsons Guitar Repair in Watertown MA- pictures and details to follow. We're now replacing the harness using an Aguilar OBP-3TK/PP Onboard Preamp 3 way, with treble, mid and bass controls, and changing to single volume, and a blend.
The Steinberger bridge is a problem because the distance between the tuners and the saddles is so short that the end windings end up resting on the saddles. Hmmpphh. Looking at replacement bridges.
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2012, 04:24 PM
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Can we see pics of it in its current state?
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  #11  
Old 09-17-2012, 05:13 PM
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AS soon as I get them. Assuming I can figure out how to post them to this list. ;=)>
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2012, 03:39 PM
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Here are some pictures. The first is of the original configuration- 2 volume pots, and a stacked tone pot.
The second is of the neck shortening. I will post two more pix in the next message.
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2012, 03:41 PM
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Two more pix; The 3rd picture in this set shows the wiring for the Aguilar OBP-3 harness being stuffed into the well. The 4th picture shows the final set-up, with the ABM bridge and tailpiece, and the 5 pots. The jack was moved to the back end. If I had a do-over, I would expand the well, line it with copper foil, and put in a separate battery box.
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:22 AM
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OMG!
  #15  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:49 AM
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OMG, indeed. I had another luthier re-do the wiring and it plays even better than before.
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2013, 07:40 AM
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Now that I've got the whole project finished and working, I've decided to sell it. I bought the Brice short-cscale 5-string, and the Department of Redundancy Department says it must go. $800 or BO. See the For Sale section for details. also selling an Aguilar Tone Hammer 350 $400.
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