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Originally Posted by Gord_oh  I want to get my Squier Classic Vibe 60s Jazz Bass painted once I get it. I know a little, without doing into detail can someone send me instructions?
Perhaps a step by step on disassembly and reassembly.Yeah I don't know much about my bass yet, but I want to learn. Someone help? |
<< added 11/10/2008>> If the bass is playing good and you like the setup on it, take measurements of your bridge height and PU height, ect. before you start. This will give you a good starting point for adjusting it once you put it back together. Another thing to note, if any screw feels tight and doesn't seem like it wants to come out,
STOP. Don't force it, the last thing you want is a broken screw. I've seen this with PU mounting screws before. 90 % of the time there are no problems, just watch out for that other 10%.
MOST important - first remove strings 
Are you going to have a luthier do the refinish? If so they can take it apart and do a setup after it's done. If you're doing it yourself or having an auto body shop do it, make sure that you don't get alot of paint in the neck pocket as you want a good fit when it goes back together. The body has shielding paint in the cavities so you want to mask them off or you will have to re-shield them with shielding paint or copper foil tape.
Neck removal is easy, 4 screws and its done. If there are shims under the neck, make a note as to where they are located under the neck and put them back on reassembly. Bridge is easy too, 5 screws and it's done. PG no problem, take out screws and it's done.
You have to remove the PU's so you have to unsolder the hot and ground leads. Make a note of where the hot leads solder to and the grounds as well. Take pictures with a digital camera of "before" shots to help you know where the wires go to. 4 screws on each PU.
Mark the PU's as to which one is the neck and bridge PU as they are sometimes different even though they look the same. If you're not good with or have never used a soldering iron I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU HAVE IT DONE BY A PRO OR SOMEONE WHO YOU KNOW CAN SOLDER. You can fry your PU's or wiring if you don't do it correctly.
The control plate will come out complete after you unsolder the PU wires. 3 screws and it's done. There will be a wire from ground on the controls to underneath the bridge. Usually it will slide out with the control plate but you might have to unsolder it too. There is a screw with a ground wire attached to the shielding, remove that too.
As you remove each assembly, put the part WITH all the screws that go with it in a plastic bag. Then you will have separate bags with everything needed to reinstall each part.
That pretty much covers it. Reassembly is basically the reverse of this. I always do the neck last as I like just having the body only as I put the parts back on.
If I missed anything, somebody else please chime in.
Funny how often we forget the simple stuff. I'll have to go back in and edit my post.
