How would you add a bridge humbucker to a P bass?

[phxlbrmpf]

My woodworking-savvy guitar player and me are planning to do this to my SX P bass copy soonish, but there's one thing that boggles my mind: how are you supposed to drill the hole for the cables that connect the bridge pickup to the pot(s) without leaving traces that are visible from outside? My SX P bass has standard Fender-style routing. Last time I checked it wasn't possible to drill around corners? Or is it? We haven't really had time to discuss the project in full yet (we're planning to do this tomorrow) and I'm not sure if he's ever done drilling like that without a pickguard to cover everything up like it's possible on Strat-style axes.

I guess we could probably drill a hole into the body from outside which connects the routing for the pots to the routing for the bridge pickup and cover it up by moving the jack but I have the feeling I might have to buy a new jack to do this.

Any advice? Lots of thanks in advance.

[Justpucky]

You can't drill around corners, but if it's one turn; you can drill a corner.

Drill the right distance at the correct angle from the top (pick-up), then drill the estimated distance and angle from the bottom (pot) and if you're lucky the two lines meet and you have a cornered channel. Use a fibre-optic light or led pen light to see if the two channels connect.

[phxlbrmpf]

Oh duhhh, I really didn't think of that, it makes a lot of sense, I guess. I think we should be able to do this because even if we screw up a bunch of times it won't be visible from the outside! Thanks a lot!

[Rickett Customs]

you could try, moving the tone pot to where the jack currently is, add a second volume pot or a blend and getting a "barrel jack", to mount on the side instead.

Although I'm not a "real luthier"............................

You should be able to drill a straight into the control cavity for the cables, but you may have difficulty with a regular drill bit on a drill, unless you drill it at a slight angle. You could however use a metal coat hanger on a drill with the "tip", cut at an angle to drill it too, that way you could drill it straight across,without an angle (well at least better than a drill bit).

Hope this helps.

/Jason

[deaf pea]

FWIW, "real" luthiers use a longish (15-18") drill bit to make the hole from the pup route to the control cavity . . .



.

[Rodent]

exactly ... and at under $5, it's hard to see why someone can't justify the cost of using the right tool for the right job

I use a 3/16" that is readily found at any Home Depot



all the best,

R

[phxlbrmpf]

Thanks a lot for the advice, let's see what tools we're going to have to work with! He says a friend of his has a shop full of tools which we'll be using.