I've finally gotten started (bout time!)

[Greg Johnsen]

Ok, since I've been hangin around here for quite some time, I've learned so much it's crazy, and I love it. However, I want to put what I've learned into a bass of my own, so one day I can be cool like you guys have my own company.

So, I recently found out that I have a wood worker in my neighborhood, and he's awesome. He makes pens, bowls, etc.. so I think he should be a really good asset. He told me that if I needed help with anything, I could ask him and he would try his best to help me. Apart from this, he said he could also help me with woodworking lessons down in Roswell. I'm not sure if he'll let me use some of his tools, but I still need to ask that, so I'll get back to that.

Alright, because I'm totally broke right now, I have no money to buy wood or anything else that I need to make a bass, and I'm currently saving up for that stuff, so it should come. However, I have been doing the things I can do for free, like research, making a template, more research, designing, etc..

I have all the specs planned out, and I'm totally pumped about it because I know it'll all look great together. I'll post the specs below, then I'll put pics of the design and the template below that. I'll also be making a blog, and I'll update this thread as well.

Specs:
4 string
Mahogany body
Claro Walnut top (1/4")
Flame maple accent (1/4")
7 piece neck
Purpleheart/Flame maple/purpleheart/Wenge\purpleheart\flame maple\purpleheart
Gaboon Ebony fretboard
ETS MK-III satin gold bridge, rectangular tail piece
Flame maple/Walnut knobs
Nordstrand pickups (still trying to decide)
Aguilar OBP-3 preamp with mid freq. switch and passive/active switch
Flame maple and Claro walnut Pickup covers (need some help on how to do those...)
Sperzel satin gold tuners
Flame maple or MOP block inlays
ETS satin gold strap locks (cause no one else makes satin)
dual action trussrod (wheel)
Mandolin frets

Should turn out nicely if I take my time, and think before I do. Depending on how good this bass turns out, I may be sending it to people to review so I can get a little publicity.

Design:


Template:


The upper horn goes out to the 11th fret, and the bottom horn allows for awesome upper fret access.

I'm not sure about the finish either. I don't know if I want a gloss finish, or a oil/wax finish. Any help on what would be easier for the first build would be appreciated.

Also, I no longer have that weird name (Alpha Sigma) I changed it to make it more personal. It uses part of my last name. Anyway, it's Sen basses, and I'll be working on a logo pretty soon.

Comments, conerns, carrots?

Thanks,

Greg

[klocwerk]

looks sweet! But I already told you that on AIM...

Thoughts:
That upper horn might get a bit thin, I'd be concerned about structural integrity if someone picks it up by the end of the horn.
mando frets for the win!

oh, and your link to the design doesn't work. share your MSN login info?

[Greg Johnsen]

lol, ok, I'll upload it it maj so you guys can see.

As for the upper horn being too thin, I thought about that, and solved it. Because I'm going to be chamering this to make it lighter, I might as well route a channel in the horn, and then glue in a carbon fiber rod for support. Hopefully that should be enough, and if it's not, whoever picked it up by the horn (wth? really) will be buying me some more wood ^^

Greg

[Cerb]

The horn on my own is fairly thin, and I have no problems. I thought about the addition of carbon fiber, but decided against it. Better safe than sorry, though.

[Greg Johnsen]

well, I wouldn't do it if I wasn't going to chamber it, but since I'm going to be doing all that router work anyway, why not, y'know?

Oh, btw, Cerb, you gave me the idea for the recessed strap locks on the upper horn, which I think is really cool, but I'm also going to be have 2 points on the butt of the bass that'll be recessed as well, allows for a cleaner line IMO.

Since I'm bored, I guess I'll just go ahead and make the blog now, better now than when I have wood to work with.


I need money!! (donations will be accepted )

Greg

EDIT: Ok, my blog is up, and my first post is as well. Enjoy.
http://senbasses.blogspot.com/

[Cerb]

I believe I actually stole the recessed straplock idea from Warwick. I was, however, not able to get the ones they use, which sit flush with the surface they are on. Mine turned out fine though .

[Greg Johnsen]

hey Cerb, where'd you get the MDF you used for the template, and how much was it? I'm thinking about getting me some to make my template so I can do something productive.

I wonder how ETS straplocks will work...

oh, and I'm planning on making the jack very deep in the body, because I think jacks look ugly...

neck changed from a 5 to a 7 piece, this is because I wanted a tad bit more flare, and maybe, it'll turn out nicer than a 5 piece would.

Greg

[Cerb]

I just bought mine at Home Depot. Lowes doesn't seem to carry it.

I wasn't aware ETS carried locks, but I will certainly be looking into it for my next one .

Front jack or on the side of the body? I have a flush mount jack that I didn't use for the side of the body that I could send you (just cover shipping ). My drill press didn't have enough span and I didn't have a hand drill at disposable, so I mounted a jack to the front, which is now how I prefer them.

[Greg Johnsen]

ok, home depot, I have one of those 2 miles from my house, lol.

Yah, ETS carries locks, haven't heard anything about them, but seeing that everyone seems to like everything else they put out, I'm not worried.

As for the jack, I'm going to do a strat style jack, but so the jack points up, so it's easier to put the cable through the strap, however, if I figure something out and am able to use a regular jack like that, I'll hit you up with that shipping money (unless bestbassgear includes one with their pre wired aggy preamp.

I've never really liked the jacks in the front, because I've seen someone rip it out and totally ruin it by stepping on their cord...such a mess.

I'm gonna have to re-do the template anyway, I made the neck too far back, so I have to push that forward a little.

Greg

[ElBajista]

You're making me jealous! I can't wait to get started on building my own basses.

I really like your design. I'll be watching your progress!

[Greg Johnsen]

glad to hear it! Maybe when things get started I can build ya one, only if I think I'm ready to take orders (and if my basses are liked enough!)

I think I even might cut TBers a deal, like 100 or so off on every purchase from me.

Greg

[mahrous]

i think that would look like a kick ass bass. use a perloid white pickguard if you really insist on it. but its would be a shame to cover claro walnut with a pickguard.

anyhow, my only comment is that since you are short on money and this will be your first creation, you might want to use cheaper material. claro walnut and flame maple are not cheap and they are not easy to work either. you will need sharpened (or you will need to sharpen the tools) and that can be not only a hassle but its difficult to do that. you might even ruin some of the tools which could not be urs.

best of luck mate

[Daaniac]

Looks sweet! Reminds me of Marchlewski.

[Greg Johnsen]

well, I'm not gonna put a plastic guard on here, it would totoally ruin the bass IMO. Flame maple would look alot better as a guard, and just adds flare to the bass. As for the price,Larry is very reasonable, and has given my really nice prices, and I'm I'll be buying from him on later basses.

I wonder if I can take out a loan

Greg

[Greg Johnsen]

Ok, I talked to my neighbor today. We went over to Woodcraft over in Roswell, and he showed me alot of stuff I can use for making the bass. They have a bunch of sweet tools, which are all top of the line, and they even are the only ones in GA to carry a German powertool line (which are totally dust free, it's amazing). He also liked my ideas, one of which I think will work out great. Because he's teaching me dovetails this saturday, I'm going to incorporate that into my bass. I know how much everyone hates having to screw out the cavity cover or the battery cover (I don't like battery boxes), so I'm going to make a sliding dovetail cover, that is keep in place by 2 rare earth magnets so that it won't slide out easily. This way, if you need quick access to your battery, or your preamp/electronics, it's just a pull and a slide away. I kinda have to thank King basses for the idea though, cause they use sliding covers, but I don't know if they use magnets.

He also happens to have a wonderful shop in his garage, and said that he wouldn't mind teaching me anything I need to know (which includes finishing, and he's a great finisher so I'm psyched about that).


It's all commin together, just a matter of time.

Greg

[ElBajista]

Congrats! You're a very lucky guy.

[Greg Johnsen]

well, I learned to hand cut dovetails yesterday, and that was awesome. I wanted to take the class because the saw used for dovetailing is pretty much the same saw used for cutting fret slots, plus I'll be incorperating dovetails into my bass (the cavity and battery cover). Learning that also helped me understand why a sqare is so important, and it was just alot of fun, and I got alot of experience with hand tools, so it was worth it.

money!

Greg

[Cerb]

Awesome. Can't wait to see the dovetailed covers.