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12-24-2012, 06:36 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Miami Gardens, Fl | | | miter saw Good morning and Merry Christmas... I plan on buying a "fret slot cutting blade" from stew mac... do to limited space... I would need to purchase a sliding miter saw.... my Q???? Is, what size saw will work for this job? thanks in advance.... have a on top day......
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12-24-2012, 07:35 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Norman, OK | | The fret-slotting blade is a 6" blade...so what I would do is go with a 10" sliding miter saw and just use blocks and shims to raise the fretboard up.
Oh, there's a nice 8-1/2" saw... http://www.grizzly.com/products/DW71...iter-Saw/H4567
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Last edited by HaMMerHeD : 12-24-2012 at 07:37 AM.
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12-24-2012, 08:01 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by dremy2006 Good morning and Merry Christmas... I plan on buying a "fret slot cutting blade" from stew mac... do to limited space... I would need to purchase a sliding miter saw.... my Q???? Is, what size saw will work for this job? thanks in advance.... have a on top day...... | Some people use a hand saw with a block, placed at the line for each fret. As long as the block was cut to fit the angle of the edge of the neck/fretboard, the line will be square to the centerline. If the saw you're looking at is small diameter, it may be accurate but chop saws and sliding miter saws have enough play in the mechanism that I wouldn't call it 'accurate enough' for this. Also, the larger the saw is, the more error is caused by a small inaccuracy.
If you use a hand saw, look for a "gentleman's saw" or a small crosscut saw. The teeth of a crosscut saw are more like chisels and for a clean cut across the grain, while a rip saw is for staying online when cutting with the grain. If you look at Rockler or Woodcraft, they have some nice ones that aren't terribly expensive. Lie-Nielsen and Lee Valley have good saws, too.
Lee Valley- these are nice saws. http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,68511&ap=1 http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,68511&ap=1
Here's a fret saw- http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,63338&ap=1
Gent's saw, crosscut and rip- http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,63338&ap=1
I would lean toward the fret saw. | 
12-24-2012, 08:41 AM
| | Registered User Owner, builder: jworrellbass | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Colorado Springs CO | | | I bought a 7-1/4" sliding chop saw from Lowes, the Cobalt brand, works great with the Stew Mac fret blade. The only problem is the lazer on the saw isn't adjustable so when you use the thinner fret blade the lazer mark will be off just a little. I use this on multi-scale fretboards.
If your doing staight frets then you can use the metal templates from Stew Mac and a table saw. You'll have to make your own slider.
Last edited by jworrellbass : 12-24-2012 at 08:44 AM.
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12-24-2012, 08:53 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Miami Gardens, Fl | | Thanks but I'm taking it to another level... I'm already doing it by head... Quote:
Originally Posted by 1958Bassman Some people use a hand saw with a block, placed at the line for each fret. As long as the block was cut to fit the angle of the edge of the neck/fretboard, the line will be square to the centerline. If the saw you're looking at is small diameter, it may be accurate but chop saws and sliding miter saws have enough play in the mechanism that I wouldn't call it 'accurate enough' for this. Also, the larger the saw is, the more error is caused by a small inaccuracy.
If you use a hand saw, look for a "gentleman's saw" or a small crosscut saw. The teeth of a crosscut saw are more like chisels and for a clean cut across the grain, while a rip saw is for staying online when cutting with the grain. If you look at Rockler or Woodcraft, they have some nice ones that aren't terribly expensive. Lie-Nielsen and Lee Valley have good saws, too.
Lee Valley- these are nice saws. http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,68511&ap=1 http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,68511&ap=1
Here's a fret saw- http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,63338&ap=1
Gent's saw, crosscut and rip- http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...884,63338&ap=1
I would lean toward the fret saw. |
__________________
-And unto one he gave five talents
"I've built a bass from rough lumber" club #7
Official MTD ( non-US made) Club Member #120
| 
12-24-2012, 10:06 AM
|  | Registered User Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | David, I would got to HD, Lowes, Menards, and Sears, find the one with the smoothest mechanism and least amount of wiggle so you can do as precision a job as possible. A friend is using a Craftsman compound sliding miter saw to do his slots in Missouri. | 
12-24-2012, 02:22 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Miami Gardens, Fl | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic David, I would got to HD, Lowes, Menards, and Sears, find the one with the smoothest mechanism and least amount of wiggle so you can do as precision a job as possible. A friend is using a Craftsman compound sliding miter saw to do his slots in Missouri. | ....thanks JC
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-And unto one he gave five talents
"I've built a bass from rough lumber" club #7
Official MTD ( non-US made) Club Member #120
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12-24-2012, 03:38 PM
|  | Registered User Majestic Swamp Ash | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Conway, Arkansas | | I have run through soooooo many miter saws, I've truly lost count......but if you have the money, there is nothing that would be as perfect as a Makita LS0714. It has a smaller 7 1/2" blade at 6000 rpm.
Here is a link: http://www.acetoolonline.com/Makita-...mak-ls0714.htm | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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