|  | 
01-20-2008, 02:15 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Syracuse, NY | | | Is this modulus salvageable?
Sign in to disble this ad
| 
01-20-2008, 02:19 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Syracuse, NY | | | Because the neck pushes up against it I suppose that a new block of wood like the picture below needs to be places in fron of the neck. The angles would give it stability.
But I am guessing. Maybe there is a better way. | 
01-20-2008, 03:35 PM
| | Registered User Builder/owner Redeemer Basses | | Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Waco Tx | | | Since some one has already attempted to repair the broken wood unsuccessfully I would route out the bad spot square, it up and replace it with new wood. Since its quilt maple the repair would be noticable, but the bass would function like it should. Is the pocket loose all the way around?
__________________
Facebook, Redeemer Basses
| 
01-20-2008, 03:52 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Syracuse, NY | | | at this point i dont care as much about the look. A nice block of black ebony would be nice and it probably wouldnt crack either. It would need some SUPER STRONG glue though. the strongest.
J | 
01-20-2008, 03:57 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Ireland | | | Would there be no way to save the top veneer or remove it in tact to stick in another piece?
__________________ WEAR EAR PLUGS!! I could have over 10,000 posts if they weren't all this long | 
01-20-2008, 04:38 PM
|  | Fan Fret Fan and Builder | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Anytown USA | | | Well it looks to me that this bass has been many colors too. Are you saying those cracks are moving? Or is it only a cosmetic issue?
And I suppose you could take the top off and re-veneer a new one to it if you wanted it cleaner looking. But to do that would most likely mean destroying the current top. The advantage of taking the top off is now you can repair the bad area and it would never show. You could just create a new body since I think the neck would still hold most of that basses value.
Good luck,
Dirk | 
01-20-2008, 04:45 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Ireland | | | Just to be a bit clearer in my post I was refering to the veneer within the cracks. Remove that put in a new piece of wood in. Reglue the veneer on top. so it wouldn't look too bad.
__________________ WEAR EAR PLUGS!! I could have over 10,000 posts if they weren't all this long | 
01-20-2008, 05:06 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC ~ Blaine, WA | | My first Q4 (1994) had the EXACT same cracks in it. When I looked into getting modulus to repair it, they said it's a very common problem with their old models, hence the future design change. It didn't seem to affect the structural integrity of the instrument, although funny you mention the neck moving in the pocket though... because my Q4 did that too! (which I repaired)
My biggest challenge with my old modulus was having no truss rod. I could not set-up my bass AT ALL because the neck didn't have enough relief when strung up. My only options were plane down the FB or sell the bass. So... I sold it, and bought a new Q6
Looks like your getting some good ideas for fixing her up though! Nice project... good luck  | 
01-20-2008, 07:08 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Syracuse, NY | | | Speyer,
how did you fix the neck moving in the pocket? | 
01-20-2008, 07:40 PM
|  | Quatre-cordes | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Orleans, LA /El Paso TX | | Quote:
Originally Posted by WarriorJoe7 at this point i dont care as much about the look. A nice block of black ebony would be nice and it probably wouldnt crack either. It would need some SUPER STRONG glue though. the strongest.
J | I don't think the glue has to be strong but there should be good clean contact. A block of ebony could lead to expansion/contraction with the different surrounding wood, and mess the bass up more or pop out????? How about removing the block, drilling the body and the block, and putting some dowels between the two, like they do in furniture or in tenon joints. That should be super strong... | 
01-20-2008, 08:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Ireland | | Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyl I don't think the glue has to be strong but there should be good clean contact. A block of ebony could lead to expansion/contraction with the different surrounding wood, and mess the bass up more or pop out????? How about removing the block, drilling the body and the block, and putting some dowels between the two, like they do in furniture or in tenon joints. That should be super strong... | Don't people glue transition blocks of different wood than the surround into that area of the neck all the time when making basses?
__________________ WEAR EAR PLUGS!! I could have over 10,000 posts if they weren't all this long | 
01-20-2008, 08:51 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC ~ Blaine, WA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by WarriorJoe7 Speyer,
how did you fix the neck moving in the pocket? | Not exactly a professional fix but it worked great:
I cut a piece of Fine Sanding Mesh (used for sanding drywall mud) to fit right in the neck pocket. It has abrasives on both sides and digs in nicely to give it a good positive connection. To my disbelief... it worked VERY well, and didn't affect the tonal characteristics of the bass at all.
Just be sure to tighten the neck bolts once a week for a month or so, to really "set" the mesh, and you'll be good to go. | 
01-20-2008, 10:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Syracuse, NY | | Perhaps this should be a stansard feature on basses. Sounds good to me. I will try it if I am keeping the bass. Quote:
Originally Posted by speyer Not exactly a professional fix but it worked great:
I cut a piece of Fine Sanding Mesh (used for sanding drywall mud) to fit right in the neck pocket. It has abrasives on both sides and digs in nicely to give it a good positive connection. To my disbelief... it worked VERY well, and didn't affect the tonal characteristics of the bass at all.
Just be sure to tighten the neck bolts once a week for a month or so, to really "set" the mesh, and you'll be good to go. | | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |