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  #1  
Old 06-05-2008, 11:29 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Smile My First Bass!

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Here are some pictures of my first bass:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bowthing...lBassGuitar001


Notes:

This bass was built in about two months, with much of the time going into templates and fixtures. The profile templates were made from 1/4" acrylic sheet (Lexan next time!). All of the profiling, routing, and planing operations, as well as the fretboard radius were done with a single tool, a small milling machine with a large wood table covering the bed. I set it up to work as an overhead pin router, and also used a sanding drum for beveling the frets and doing the fretboard radius. I also used a Safe-T-Planer for all the planing/joining.

The radius jig was made from a piano hinge and two large triangular wood plates, with the neck attached to the edge of the upper piece, and the lower piece used as a guide against a fence on the table. By swinging the plate (with neck) up and down, and sliding the whole arrangement along the fence, I was able to sand a very accurate conical radius with the sanding drum. This was done when the neck was uncarved to make it easy to attach.

The headstock joint and fingerboard were glued with hide glue, and the fret slots were cut with a standard fret saw and miter box setup. I cut them shallow, and then to full depth after the radius was made, so the bottoms of the slots are also radiused. The neck was carved by hand, and is a little too thin (my only serious mistake, though it seems to be stiff enough)

It plays very well, with a nice low action, but the fingerboard is quite flat near the heel. By going to a 7" radius at the nut I would have ended up with a more normal-feeling 17.75" radius at the 21st fret (14" at the 12th fret). Next time!

The sound is really nice, though I think a little thicker neck and a little thinner body might feel a little more lively. It has an amazing lack of dead spots for a solid, unreinforced neck (very slight one on G at the 8th fret, but no others). Overall, I'm really happy with it and achieved my goal of building a basic no frills workhorse. I got some compliments on a nice punchy and full sound with good treble at my first outing with it.

Its really fun to play your own instrument!

SPECS

Body:
Alder, two piece. 1.70" thick.
Reduced size J-style profile.
Front control cavity.

Neck:
One-piece flat-sawn maple.
Nut width 1.60", heel width 2.40".
Body attachment with hex socket head machine screws, using
hardened steel inserts installed from fretboard side.
Low-profile two-way truss rod with flat bar on fretboard side.

Peghead:
Eastern flame maple.
Angled-back (8 degrees) Fender style.
Scarf-joint peghead attachment with volute.

Fretboard:
Madagascar rosewood.
21 frets.
Conical radius with all strings following linear surface (8 in. at nut,
20.29 in. at 21st fret).
Zero fret with graphite nut.
Gold mother of pearl fret and side markers.
"Evo Gold" alloy jumbo fretwire.

Finish:
Body: Target Coatings Ultima Spray Lacquer, level sanded and buffed.
Neck: Same (lacquer), satin finish on back, buffed on front of headstock.
Fretboard: Oiled

Hardware:
Hipshot A-style chrome plated brass bridge, 3/4" string spacing.
Hipshot Ultralight 1/2" tuners.
Schaller chrome strap locks.
Hand made solid nickel silver control plate with hex socket screws and
thread inserts. Recessed in body.
Nickle plated control knobs.
Neutrik locking phono jack, recessed in body.

Electronics:
Bill Lawrence J-45 pickups. Bridge at 2-1/8", neck at 6" from scale length.
Passive V-V-V controls:
Master volume (250K linear w/ treble bleed).
Neck Volume (50K with rotary cutout switch).
Bridge Volume (50K with rotary cutout switch).
  #2  
Old 06-06-2008, 02:01 AM
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nice. never realy liked the metal control plate on most jazzes. pretty sweet twist using a tele p plate
  #3  
Old 06-06-2008, 08:52 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bronx, NY
the scarf joint (?) looks a little odd, and i would have gone with a side-mounted jack, but that's still pretty cool for a first build. i wish i had access to woodworking tools... :/
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  #4  
Old 06-06-2008, 09:11 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA /El Paso TX
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nice first build. I believe the scarf joint looks like this because the headstock part is flame maple and the neck is not. Looks cool either way. I like the finish and I am not usually a fan of natural on alder but this piece came out well it seems!!
  #5  
Old 06-06-2008, 09:58 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Thanks for the comments! Yeah, the scarf joint is really odd. I wanted a volute, and it just ended up looking like that after I carved it. I couldn't quite get my head around figuring it out beforehand.

I think if I do that again i will move the headstock down and cut the volute out of that, so the joint just arcs around the back of the neck (like an Ibanez neck)
  #6  
Old 06-06-2008, 11:33 PM
Arx Arx is offline
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Very nice. I was going to comment on the jack as well. I really like those ones. Used one on my first bass too. I put mine on the edge though. With it on the front it's pretty weird with anything other than a 90 degree cable right?
  #7  
Old 06-07-2008, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arx View Post
I was going to comment on the jack as well. ... With it on the front it's pretty weird with anything other than a 90 degree cable right?
Yeah, as weird as nearly every bass ever made (i.e. all standard Fenders and Fender-alikes.
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  #8  
Old 06-07-2008, 10:24 PM
Arx Arx is offline
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lol, yeah.. I guess. I've never owned a fender, so it seems weird to me.

-Nick
  #9  
Old 06-07-2008, 11:13 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Yes I always use a right angle jack, and I like it on the front cause I can play on the couch or bed without the cable being in the way. Bad posture i'm sure! The jack looks a little clunky, I think, but its pretty convenient and solid.

I might try it on the side next time, but up pretty high (near the button), so I can just hang a right angle cord, and it still won't be in the way.
  #10  
Old 06-08-2008, 12:32 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orange County, CA
Really nice work on a first build! Hope to see your progress on other builds! Good luck in your future endeavors!

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  #11  
Old 06-08-2008, 10:28 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudyboy98 View Post
Really nice work on a first build! Hope to see your progress on other builds! Good luck in your future endeavors!

Thanks! Since this one turned out well enough to use as my main bass, I am going to make a fretless 4 next. The plan is for a 1/4 sawn maple neck (I have a really nice clear piece), ebony fretboard (again I have a really nice piece that is totally black), and a mahogany body. I am debating whether to do it neck through..... So many choices.
  #12  
Old 06-08-2008, 12:49 PM
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Looks great. How does she sound?
  #13  
Old 06-08-2008, 01:04 PM
Arx Arx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowthing View Post
Yes I always use a right angle jack, and I like it on the front cause I can play on the couch or bed without the cable being in the way. Bad posture i'm sure! The jack looks a little clunky, I think, but its pretty convenient and solid.

I might try it on the side next time, but up pretty high (near the button), so I can just hang a right angle cord, and it still won't be in the way.
I like a right angle cord, and on the one bass I've built so far I put it a few inches down from where the button usually is, and I put the button a few inches higher. I don't think it really affects the balance nearly as much as a lot of people suggest it does, but it does put the axis of rotation in line with where it should be.

I usually use a right angle jack, and I loop it over my strap button. With them both near the butt end of the bass, it sits completely flat. The upside to looping it over the button is that if you do catch your strap on something you have a tiny bit of slack. Not much, but better than tearing the head off your cable. (or pulling it out, with a straight one)

-Nick
  #14  
Old 06-08-2008, 04:46 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: New York
i like it...great first build... where did you get that input jack? I've seen them on so many builds but I'm not quite sure what benefit it posesses... what's with the red tab thingy also?
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  #15  
Old 06-08-2008, 04:49 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Italy
great job man, congratulations
  #16  
Old 06-08-2008, 07:51 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arx View Post
I like a right angle cord, and on the one bass I've built so far I put it a few inches down from where the button usually is, and I put the button a few inches higher. I don't think it really affects the balance nearly as much as a lot of people suggest it does, but it does put the axis of rotation in line with where it should be.

I usually use a right angle jack, and I loop it over my strap button. With them both near the butt end of the bass, it sits completely flat. The upside to looping it over the button is that if you do catch your strap on something you have a tiny bit of slack. Not much, but better than tearing the head off your cable. (or pulling it out, with a straight one)

-Nick
Cool, thats a good idea. And for practice you could just let it hang straight down.
  #17  
Old 06-08-2008, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worshiper View Post
i like it...great first build... where did you get that input jack? I've seen them on so many builds but I'm not quite sure what benefit it posesses... what's with the red tab thingy also?
I got it at the local high-end audio shop. Look at my specs, I mention the brand (not sure if I'm supposed to!)
  #18  
Old 06-08-2008, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Worshiper View Post
i like it...great first build... where did you get that input jack? I've seen them on so many builds but I'm not quite sure what benefit it posesses... what's with the red tab thingy also?
Oh, sorry, the red tab thing is the unlocking button. The jack locks on the plug when you push it in. To release it you have to press the red button. Its a little awkward at first but now I just push it with my thumb when I grab the plug, its pretty easy.
  #19  
Old 06-08-2008, 08:06 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Utah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthbass View Post
Looks great. How does she sound?
It sounds really really even. I first put diMarzio J's in it, but I think I like the Lawrences. Side by side with my Fender RB IV in single coil mode, it sounds very similar but with a little more midrange. If I turn on one EQ knob at a time on my amp, the volume seems the same across the whole range. It doesn't have quite the intense bottom of my Yamaha BB414, but like I said the volume and timbre is consistent over the whole board, and I feel like I can get any sound I want by using the amp.

The bridge pickup is a little closer to the bridge than a Jazz (not intentional!), but I really love the sound with both pups on. Its a little "woodier" sounding than the fender, maybe because the bridge is more trebly and a little quieter. So I'm happy!
  #20  
Old 06-09-2008, 01:18 AM
Arx Arx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worshiper View Post
i like it...great first build... where did you get that input jack? I've seen them on so many builds but I'm not quite sure what benefit it posesses... what's with the red tab thingy also?
It's a Neutrik locking jack. The red tab is the button you press to allow you to pull the cable out.

The main benefit IMO, is that it's a really well made jack. My Ibanez BTB555 has one. I liked it enough that I used one on my own build. Not because it locks, but because it is a really good jack electrically. I've never gotten the least crackle out of either of them. They're just really solid and well made.

I like all of their connectors. I use their XLR plugs/jacks too. Really high quality stuff.
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