Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Luthier's Corner
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Luthier's Corner Discussion on instrument building, repair, and materials.


Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 10-25-2008, 07:54 PM
theory028's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Supporting Member
My First Parts Bass

Sign in to disble this ad
I've been waiting all week to start working on my parts bass. This is what I've gotten done so far.

I've stripped away the old finish, Dremeled/drilled the cavity to fit the P bass electronics harness I bought, applied the wood stain with polyurethane, and painted my old pickguard.

The electronics have proven to be the most annoying part. I had to resolder a few joints and spent a while making the cavity big enough to hold the S1 switch pot. I don't have a neck or strings yet so I haven't been able to actually test that it all works (I'm crossing my fingers; I don't want to dig around in there again). I plugged it in and put it up against another bass and it did pick up and amplify the sound, I'm just not sure if there is going to be any buzzing, humming, or odd noises. I'm hoping for the best.

My neck, which should be coming early next week, is a Mighty Mite fretless, unlined, with an ebonal finger board. It should look pretty nice.

Anyway, here is a picture. I'm excited with how it's turned out. I have very little experience with wood staining, and there are obvious imperfections, but I like it.


__________________
Lakland Skyline Darryl Jones / Fender American Vintage Reissue '62 Jazz
Ampeg SVT-VR
Ampeg SVT810E

Last edited by theory028 : 10-25-2008 at 07:57 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-25-2008, 09:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nebraska
Send a message via MSN to jordan_frerichs
liking the coffe table brown finish. doesn't seem too smooth. did you sand with fine grits between coats. i use 2000 grit auto sandpaper i get from walmart on the last coats, inbetween coats.
__________________
some day, i will be more intelligenter!
  #3  
Old 10-25-2008, 09:57 PM
Lesfunk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: S.E. Connecticut, USA
Supporting Member
It would look better if you countersunk those pickguard screws
  #4  
Old 10-26-2008, 12:10 PM
theory028's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Supporting Member
I used 0000 steel wool between coats. I only did two coats because of time constraints.

I wish I would have used separate stain and poly. I wanted a cherry but they didn't have that in PolyShades. I doubt it would have turned out any better since I am new to finishing stuff, but I would have at least gotten a color closer to what I was shooting for.

About the pickguard screws, they are pretty bad. I'll redo those next weekend or over Thanksgiving since I may end up refinishing it.
__________________
Lakland Skyline Darryl Jones / Fender American Vintage Reissue '62 Jazz
Ampeg SVT-VR
Ampeg SVT810E
  #5  
Old 10-26-2008, 02:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by theory028 View Post
I used 0000 steel wool between coats. I only did two coats because of time constraints.

I wish I would have used separate stain and poly. I wanted a cherry but they didn't have that in PolyShades. I doubt it would have turned out any better since I am new to finishing stuff, but I would have at least gotten a color closer to what I was shooting for.

About the pickguard screws, they are pretty bad. I'll redo those next weekend or over Thanksgiving since I may end up refinishing it.
That's pretty good for a first attempt. It's tough with Polyshades. I much prefer a separate stain and top coat and it requires a lot more coats with careful, fine sanding between coats to get it perfect. I wouldn't use steel wool between coats on a hard finish that's supposed to build up to desired thickness. It just follows the contour of the previous imperfections. Sandpaper takes out the nibs and brings them level with the rest of the surface. I like using 400 grit open coat sandpaper between coats when using varnish. Before the last coat I use 800 grit.

Anyhow, you did good and learned something.

Now get out there and start another project. It gets to be a lot of fun after a while and you learn something each time. Practicing on scrap wood is a big help too and you can head off problems beforehand.
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:46 PM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.