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  #1  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:53 AM
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My first refinish project. Squier Precision.

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Buddy of mine sold me an old Squier P bass for 30 bucks. I figured I could fix it up. Here's the condition it was in last night when I got it home.







Today so far I've completely gutted it and I have the neck sanded down/fretboard cleaned for refinishing. I started sanding the body, but am headed to Home Depot to get poly stripper since under the white there's a black layer that's tough as nails.

Any tips you guys can give me would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2009, 11:02 AM
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That black layer is probably primer.
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2009, 11:03 AM
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Are you going to repaint it opaque? Or do you want to see the woodgrain underneath? If you're going opaque, you may be able to leave the black layer - I'm guessing it's some sort of primer.

If you want woodgrain, then that will be more work. Sanding the flat portions will be relatively easy, but getting absolutely all of the old finish out of the hard-to-reach curvy places will take some time and elbow grease. But it's important to get it all off! Otherwise your new finish might not take in certain spots. Ask me how I know.

This would be super-cool with a DarkStar, BadAss bridge, and a Villex PRTB!
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2009, 11:06 AM
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I gotta say, I'm jealous. That's a really sweet looking bass. Personally, I would've left the vintage white and just stuck a tort pickguard on it. Sweeet!
  #5  
Old 10-09-2009, 11:30 AM
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Okay, I was thinking the black layer might be primer or like bondo or something. I'm planning on an opaque finish, can I spray my white primer over the black layer?
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2009, 12:37 PM
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Sure, but try one spot first, and give it a few hours to see if it reacts.

What's your topcoat color?
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:02 PM
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Painters touch Mango
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...k=P_PartNumber

It was shooting for a little bit lighter than capri orange. It was all that was available at home depot. Does it matter if I use Satin or Gloss for the colour coat?

I bought all one brand for primer (white), colour (mango) and clearcoat so that they'll be compatible.
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2009, 05:26 PM
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Use gloss for the color coat. Are you going to change anything else or is it just a clean , paint re string? looks like you'll at least need some saddles.

Your like the 3rd person i have read about getting a squier for 30$ lately.
  #9  
Old 10-09-2009, 05:40 PM
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I have a bridge I had laying around that I'm going to install on it instead since it's a lot beefier and new.

I'm also hoping to buy a 3 ply mint pickguard to put on it since the old 1 ply looks really cheap and crummy, as well as cream coloured pickup covers and some new knobs for the pots.

I have the neck ready to clear coat I guess, sanded it with 600 grit , except now I don't have a decal for it.....

I was going to take updated pictures tonight, but I still have a bit of sanding to do (inside of the upper horn, tricky spot for hand sanding) so I'm going to wait and finish that up tomorrow, then get some more pictures up.

I also need to take a trip and exchange my colour can for gloss.
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2009, 07:14 PM
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I have the same body on a parts bass. If you use a all parts guard you pretty much have to re drill every hole in the body, so i advise using a different pic guard chances are it would fit better.The squier 1 plys are pretty weak and crack easy at the jack.Otherwise i would say just paint it something, also you could paint the pick up covers super easy but it maybe more exspensive to buy paint for it then covers

Tb'er stickk has some extra 70's P bass logos he was going to sell me one cheap, this was a few months ago but i bet he still has some.

I think you maybe able to use sating paint and it would look fine with a gloss clear coat i would just use gloss for both.
  #11  
Old 10-10-2009, 10:06 AM
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Finished my sanding, feels pretty smooth.








I guess this is when it was made, I don't think they have serial numbers.......



And here's the tuners and bridge I plan to put on it when it's done.....



Anybody have any recommendations as to how I can clean up those two tuners in the picture? I scrubbed them with CLR and a toothbrush and then soaked them in it and it didn't do much....
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  #12  
Old 10-10-2009, 10:22 AM
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My guess would be tedious work with some steel wool. They're pretty rusty.
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2009, 11:33 AM
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get some break parts cleaner and some steel wool and go to it. the break parts cleaner will help lift the rust
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2009, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vbasscustom View Post
get some break parts cleaner and some steel wool and go to it. the break parts cleaner will help lift the rust
Sorry for being pedantic, but it's

B - R - A - K - E
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  #15  
Old 10-10-2009, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmullins View Post
Sorry for being pedantic, but it's

B - R - A - K - E
Ouch..

But Im waiting for new pics! Im dying to see the outcome.
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  #16  
Old 10-10-2009, 05:16 PM
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Ouch..

But Im waiting for new pics! Im dying to see the outcome.
Me too!
I love these DIY home threads, whenever I do things like this for myself it makes me feel so empowered
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  #17  
Old 10-10-2009, 05:24 PM
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Looking forward to seeing this one finished!
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  #18  
Old 10-11-2009, 11:03 AM
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the interest! I sprayed the first coat of primer on, but I'm going to put on a second coat when I can. I can't really be spraying that stuff inside and it's pretty cold/rainy out so I'm kind of trying to figure out where I can finish this with good results....
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  #19  
Old 10-11-2009, 11:05 AM
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the interest! I sprayed the first coat of primer on, but I'm going to put on a second coat when I can. I can't really be spraying that stuff inside and it's pretty cold/rainy out so I'm kind of trying to figure out where I can finish this with good results....
Garage? Parents garage? Homeless guy's box? Do what need be!
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  #20  
Old 10-11-2009, 01:22 PM
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Try not to spray when the humidity is above about 60%. Sometimes you can warm your paint before using. If possible store your wood parts inside where the humidity may be lower and then take them outside to paint and then let them dry inside. Just my suggestions. Good luck
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