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12-04-2005, 01:30 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | | My first stringéd creation.
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Well, this is a really a 3-d art project for my friend's class. We both created it. He did the designing, I did the tooling, shaping, and mechanics. It was pretty much done freehand, and it only shows in a few spots. I have yet to finish it, but I have a good purple stain to put on it. Anyone have any good recommendations for a glossy hard finish that is easy?
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Last edited by Trevorus : 04-23-2006 at 12:46 PM.
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12-04-2005, 08:02 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Atlanta/Loganville | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Trevorus Well, this is a really a 3-d art project for my friend's class. We both created it. He did the designing, I did the tooling, shaping, and mechanics. It was pretty much done freehand, and it only shows in a few spots. I have yet to finish it, but I have a good purple stain to put on it. Anyone have any good recommendations for a glossy hard finish that is easy? | That's pretty neat. A version of a lap steel.
I would recommend a brush-on poly like Varathane, Spar Urethane, or the Minwax versions. With a foam brush, you can get a good level surface and once it hardens up, you can sand, polish and buff like any of the other finishes, right up to a mirror reflection.
Don't forget to sign the headstock before you put the clearcoat on!  |
12-04-2005, 01:33 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Hambone That's pretty neat. A version of a lap steel.
I would recommend a brush-on poly like Varathane, Spar Urethane, or the Minwax versions. With a foam brush, you can get a good level surface and once it hardens up, you can sand, polish and buff like any of the other finishes, right up to a mirror reflection.
Don't forget to sign the headstock before you put the clearcoat on! | Awesome. That sounds like it will work nicely. Also, I have a question. How do you calculate "fret" spacing? I want to build an overlay that will sit under the strings, and make it more functional. It's a 22.5" scale.
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βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ® certified. No. 7
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12-04-2005, 03:45 PM
| | Registered User
Owner: Brevard Sound Systems | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Deltona, FL | | | This'll work for you....
Hard to explain properly, we went thru this once before and someone took what I said and put up a nice computer graphic of it. Essentially, the first "fret" is 1/18 of the total scale lenth from the nut. This means 1.25" for you, for the first fret. Then the second is 1/18 of the remaining lenth, etc etc. For the sencond "fret", take the 22.5 and subtract your 1.25 of the first, leaving 21.25. Now devide that by 18 for the second fret, at 1.18" from the first. Subtract 1.18 from 21.25, divide THAT number by 18 and so on, and so on, etc etc, ad nauseum.
HTH,
Lee |
12-06-2005, 01:08 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | | Cool, I am planning on making a plexiglass, or lexan overlay with the lines clearly marked, so they allow you to see the wood underneath.
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βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ® certified. No. 7
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12-06-2005, 01:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Narangba, QLD, Australia | | Among the other things it does, the spreadsheet that Pilotjones assembled has JP's fret calc page in it. Spreadsheet thread
The actual attachment is in the second last post.
The method it uses is more accurate than the on BassikLee described but from memory its a matter of fractions of a mm, so there's not much in it.
Josh D |
12-06-2005, 01:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | | Thanks a ton dave! That woks really well! Also, thanks Pilotjones for creating that sheet!
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12-06-2005, 09:07 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: N / East Texas | | | |
12-06-2005, 11:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian | Another good one!
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βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ® certified. No. 7
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12-06-2005, 01:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Burton-upon-trent. UK | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by BassikLee Hard to explain properly, we went thru this once before and someone took what I said and put up a nice computer graphic of it. Essentially, the first "fret" is 1/18 of the total scale lenth from the nut. This means 1.25" for you, for the first fret. Then the second is 1/18 of the remaining lenth, etc etc. For the sencond "fret", take the 22.5 and subtract your 1.25 of the first, leaving 21.25. Now devide that by 18 for the second fret, at 1.18" from the first. Subtract 1.18 from 21.25, divide THAT number by 18 and so on, and so on, etc etc, ad nauseum.
HTH,
Lee | Works great for older style instruments where the dicrepancy actually creates a small amount of compensation, like older fretted acoustic instruments.
I think the actual number is something like 17.817. Use the fretcalculators and save your head the trouble  |
12-07-2005, 11:04 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | | Well, I stained it purple last night, and routed for the controls. Hopefully I'll be able to get a gloss finish on it soon.
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