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05-27-2010, 04:04 PM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | | My next build
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This will be my 8th build so far. The process is becoming quicker and quality is improving. I'm taking it a step further and adding a few layers. Here's what's next:
The body will have a mahogany core. Followed by an 1/8" wenge on either side followed by bookmatched quilted maple (about 3/8") on both the top and back.
The neck will be mahogany with a center stripe of wenge.
The fingerboard I'm excited about. Pau Ferro with a stripe of curly maple down the center (about 3/4" wide)
And just to finish it all off, a wenge control cavity cover and face dots will be included.
The rendering shown here isn't exactly what I described. I've changed a few things after this was made. This is mainly to show the body layers.
I'll post pics as the build moves along. | 
05-27-2010, 04:19 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: OH | | | Will be interesting to see process once the dust starts to fly. Did you use Rhino to build the models or is that just 2d in Photoshop? | 
05-27-2010, 04:36 PM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | | It was done on Photoshop. I watched the tutorial from JC Basses to get the basics down. It's nice to see what it will somewhat look like when it's all said and done. Yeah, I can't wait to get started. Hopefully this weekend. | 
05-28-2010, 09:13 AM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | Here's the body after gluing and cut out.
Depending on the type of wood and chance of chipout, I either run my flush trim bit (1 1/2" long) taking a couple passes or sand it to the line with my oscillating spindle sander.
Both methods work well. Of course I rough cut it on the bandsaw first before using the above methods.
I'm using Titebond III (I have it on hand but usually use type II)
Last edited by whitcomb-basses : 05-28-2010 at 09:30 AM.
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05-28-2010, 10:34 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Santa Cruz | | | Nice looking start!
My experience with Titebond III is that it leaves a more noticeable glue line, but it may also be my (lack of) technique.
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05-28-2010, 10:45 AM
|  | quid verum atque decens Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | | I think once he surfaces it, it'll be less noticeable. | 
06-01-2010, 12:32 AM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | Made some progress today. I'm really happy with the way it's turning out thus far
Sanded the front and back to 60 grit to remove the glue lines.
The pup layout for this one
A little double sided tape, templates and a router are up next!
The result
And the back side
And here's a nice shot of the layers. Again it's bookmatched quilted maple top and back, wenge next with mahogany in the center
Enjoy!! I sure am  | 
06-01-2010, 12:41 AM
| | | | SUbbed.
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06-01-2010, 01:57 AM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | I just had to tease myself (and probably others) after a days worth of work.  | 
06-02-2010, 05:01 AM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | The Neck and fingerboard (so far)
The neck is rough cut and truss rod cavity cut
And the highlight of my bass (IMO) I think I'm already in love.
The fingerboard!!
Here's the rough lumber
And now getting glued together
Glue dry and planed down to 1/4" and ready to go  | 
06-02-2010, 08:17 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: OH | | | I like the negative effect between the neck and finger board. The body grain also really fits nicely around the electronics and bridge. | 
06-05-2010, 07:23 PM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | A little progress over the past couple of days.
Pretty much have all the contouring finished and I made a wenge control cavity cover. Should be ready for finish in the next few days 
I'm planning on a oil/varnish blend. I want something very close to the wood but brings out the grain so I think that's the best choice.  | 
06-06-2010, 03:21 AM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | So one thing leads to another...
After dying the inside of the control cavity and I remove the tape. What do I find? Black dye has bled through to the top. I was thinking about trying a black dye, sand it off and apply top coat method. Guess that's what I'm doing now. Here are some pics
Dyed the control cavity black (and yes, regret doing unless the end result is cool)
And here's what happened on the top (even after trying to sand it)
I taped off the wenge and mahogany center and dyed the top. And AGAIN, I get bleed through on the mahogany.
I then proceeded to dye the whole thing and hope for the best. Not really what I had in mind but it's way too late now. If anything, I'll stumble into Ritter's territory and end up with a deep, vibrant quilted maple finish. | 
06-06-2010, 03:23 AM
| | | its nice and all but it looks like every other bass body  sorry dude
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06-06-2010, 05:57 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: England | | Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambles its nice and all but it looks like every other bass body  sorry dude | What are you sorry about? Overvaluing your opinion? Or expressing it when it wasn't neccesary?
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06-06-2010, 01:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: OH | | | Sucks that it bled through. =/ Like you said... Not what you may have been going for, but it still looks good. =p | 
06-06-2010, 01:56 PM
| | | | For what it's worth, I think the black dye looks great on that quilted maple.
Are you still able to distinguish the layers of wenge and mahogany in the body, or did the dye cover that up? | 
06-06-2010, 02:37 PM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | | The black looked good on the maple but covered everything else up. I sanded most of it off to see what it looks like and to get my layers visible again. The mahogany sure soaked it up on the end grain. I'm thinking about re-staining but not so dark this time. Might still get my layers throughout and get the maple looking good again. I'll post some pics of what I have so far before I do that. | 
06-06-2010, 02:48 PM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | | | 
06-06-2010, 02:53 PM
| | Registered User Owner/Luthier, Whitcomb Custom Basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Uijeongbu, S. Korea (Military) | | | Ok, so looking at the before black stain pics, it's looking pretty good. The quilt is a bit deeper but I keep going back to the pre-sanded stain...it looks too good.
I'll have to sleep on it. Any ideas out there on which you'd rather see? Black or sanded black? Keep in mind the layers I have.
FYI: This bass isn't for me. I'm just making it and see where it goes. I have enough of my own right now so the colors don't have to be what I want. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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