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02-14-2013, 10:35 AM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | Neck jigs like the stew mac one but better?
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02-14-2013, 01:02 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Charleston SC | | | Aside from the fact that you could build one for 1/5 of their price (maybe with a tobacco-burst and some gold hardware O.o), it seems pretty nice. | 
02-14-2013, 11:42 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: RI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Reticle Aside from the fact that you could build one for 1/5 of their price (maybe with a tobacco-burst and some gold hardware O.o), it seems pretty nice. | Haha, seriously. A couple $20 Chinese 'aerospace' gauge micrometers and a Home depot run for wood and bolts. I buy lots of tools from StewMac, but the price on this one is a bit cray. | 
02-15-2013, 12:05 AM
|  | Registered User Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | Yep, built my first neck jig in 90, 2nd addition a few years ago. I don't use the feeler gauges, as I only use it for leveling frets and fingerboards or doing full fret jobs which is easy to do with simple tools. | 
02-15-2013, 09:42 AM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | So you secure the the bass to the unit. String it up to tension and let the neck settle in then adjust the rods so they snug against the neck. Then remove the strings and adjust the truss rod so the rods are snug against the neck then level and fret?
I hope I don't have to make several of these. I do basses from 30 scale 4's to a 36 fret 35 scale 6 string.
Do I understand the basic procedure? 
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02-15-2013, 10:17 AM
|  | Registered User Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | Tom, I sent you a pic of mine, it is adjstable from 12" scale uke to 41" scale DB.
I loosn the rods completely, the body is secured to the platen height posts, and the headstock is secured with a rubber strap to a hook at the end or through one of the rod channels up the neck support piece depending on the scale.
I have straight edges made out of 1/4 baltic birch ply that are slotted for different fret scales, so I can flatten the fretboard using the posts.
Once you have the fretboard flat, you can then get an accurate level on the frets or fingerboard, thus allowing for easier final set up.
Hope this helps
Dan Erlewines procedure is probably much different, I believe there are a number of neck jig videos on Youtube
Last edited by Musiclogic : 02-15-2013 at 10:23 AM.
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02-15-2013, 10:23 AM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | Thanks for the photo. So you don't string the neck up to tension?
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02-15-2013, 12:48 PM
|  | Registered User Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | No Tom, I have no need, the minor corrections that may be needed after a complete leveling with the neck dead flat makes it unnecessary. This may b a need with a vintage instrument to tweak the setup, but I am not doing restorations that much anymore, and it was not something I did when I was restoring.
Like I said, Dans approach may differ, but I am using mine for a specific purpose, and that is to create a level surface to do a setup, usually on a new build as opposed to a well broke in instrument
As a side note, I do leave the instrument strung up for a week or two after and if a major tweak is needed, I will put it in the jig strung and set it then unstring, but I have only had to do this once. I think you will discover your comfort level as you work with it. | 
02-15-2013, 01:01 PM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | Ok thanks
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02-20-2013, 09:11 AM
|  | HIGH FIVE! | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Portland, ME | | | Hi musiclogic,
Can I get that pic too? I'd really like to try building one of these.
Thanks | 
02-20-2013, 09:17 AM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | If somebody that was good at building jigs wanted to make some like the stew mac but better and reasonable I would think they could sell a few..... Just sayin.... 
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02-27-2013, 06:57 AM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | |
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02-27-2013, 01:13 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Minneapolis & St.Paul, MN | | Do you guys prefer this method vs. a strings on approach such as the Katana? | 
02-27-2013, 02:20 PM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by gbarcus Do you guys prefer this method vs. a strings on approach such as the Katana? | Interesting never heard of it do you use it?
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02-27-2013, 04:19 PM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by gbarcus Do you guys prefer this method vs. a strings on approach such as the Katana? | Figures the bass system is out of stock......  
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02-27-2013, 08:18 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Minneapolis & St.Paul, MN | | I don't, but I have just recently started using a piece of angled aluminum that goes under the strings. Got the concept from devices like the katana. I suppose if you can find a high enough quality 2' aluminum level, pull the ends out, you might be able to create a budget version. (I know, I have an active imagination.  )
Before installing the nut, I use a temporary nut that is about 1/4" high, and put the saddles fairly high. Just enough where I can slip the angle under the strings and level the frets out.
I matched up 3 pieces of bloodwood to equal heights, so I can put that on the fingerboard and adjust the truss rod so the neck is as flat as I can get it. I put the bar on top of the 3 pieces as a reference. Sometimes on a single cut bass, I'll get a slight dip in the 9-11 fret range, so I'll put the middle piece where I think there might be a low spot. | 
02-27-2013, 08:46 PM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | I contacted him and he does have a few in stock I am going to give it a try...t
Thanks gbarcus
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02-28-2013, 12:45 AM
|  | David Schwab Owner, SGD Music Products | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bloomfield, NJ | | That katana thing looks like a pain in the butt.
Back in the 70s there was a system I used that worked with the strings on. It was a wide plate that you attached sand paper too. You jacked the strings up at the nut.
[edit] Well how about that, they still make it: Thomas & Ginex Fret Refinishing Method
I haven't used it in a long time, but I think it worked well.
We have an Erlewine neck jig at the shop that we made back in the 90s, but I haven't used it in a long time. My former partner in SGD built it. He studied with Dan back in the day.
These days I use one of these: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting..._Levelers.html
I have the 16" long version. I really like it.
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02-28-2013, 02:53 AM
|  | Registered User Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | Quote:
Originally Posted by tjclem If somebody that was good at building jigs wanted to make some like the stew mac but better and reasonable I would think they could sell a few..... Just sayin....  | Yeah Tom, if I had the time, I could whip a few out in a few days just no time
As for this vvv
Thomas & Ginex Fret Refinishing Method
I also have one, found it useful for quick redress work but not much else | 
02-28-2013, 06:15 AM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie That katana thing looks like a pain in the butt.
Back in the 70s there was a system I used that worked with the strings on. It was a wide plate that you attached sand paper too. You jacked the strings up at the nut.
[edit] Well how about that, they still make it: Thomas & Ginex Fret Refinishing Method
I haven't used it in a long time, but I think it worked well.
We have an Erlewine neck jig at the shop that we made back in the 90s, but I haven't used it in a long time. My former partner in SGD built it. He studied with Dan back in the day.
These days I use one of these: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting..._Levelers.html
I have the 16" long version. I really like it. | Thanks just wondering why you would go with the 16" and not the 24? Wouldn't it ...in theory be best to have one even longer than the fingerboard? so you don't do any leveling with the neck to tension?
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