Need help refinishing a bass... NEWBIE content!!!

LightGroove · #1 11-07-2008, 06:19 PM

Hey now,

I've always wanted to build a bass. At this point in my life it is not financially feasible but I do have a few beaters laying around. So please excuse my ignorance as I don;t even know where to begin. Please feel free to steer me toward threads/websites and such that may be of help

I have a Schecter Elite 5 string in the Orange/Red Sunset color. The bass is a neck thru with a maple body and I believe mahogany wings.

I would like to know my options as to changing the overall color/dye of the bass. Basically I want to get rid of the orange and change it to something else. I do like the little quilted top but it isn't that important.

First...can this be done? Can I stain/paint/dye over the existing color?

If so how would I begin the process?

Thanks for your time and please excuse my ignorance once again.

Blessings

62bass · #2 11-07-2008, 08:16 PM

[quote=LightGroove;6502044]Hey now,

I've always wanted to build a bass. At this point in my life it is not financially feasible but I do have a few beaters laying around. So please excuse my ignorance as I don;t even know where to begin. Please feel free to steer me toward threads/websites and such that may be of help

I have a Schecter Elite 5 string in the Orange/Red Sunset color. The bass is a neck thru with a maple body and I believe mahogany wings.

I would like to know my options as to changing the overall color/dye of the bass. Basically I want to get rid of the orange and change it to something else. I do like the little quilted top but it isn't that important.
-------
You could probably paint over the existing finish if you prepared it properly first. But then you obliterate any wood grain showing through.

If you want to have the wood show and for it to be a different colour, you need to sand it down to bare wood and start over. Either way, it's a quite bit of work and not easy for a beginner to get good results.

Post a picture of your bass so we can see what you're up against.

**Stumbo** · #3 11-07-2008, 08:22 PM

Search is your friend:
http://www.google.com/custom?domains...ORID%3A1&hl=en

LightGroove · #4 11-08-2008, 09:19 AM

Here are a few pics... I don't think Schecter put a lot of effort in the quilting process. You can make a little quilt out in the picture of the front.

A I said I dig the quilt but it isn't a must.

As far as sanding would I just start with something like 400 grit and a sanding block and go to it?

Thanks for the help!!!

praisegig · #5 11-08-2008, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightGroove

I would like to know my options as to changing the overall color/dye of the bass. Basically I want to get rid of the orange and change it to something else. I do like the little quilted top but it isn't that important.

First...can this be done? Can I stain/paint/dye over the existing color? Blessings

I, for one, would not do any staining, not a good option for what you have to work with. You can paint a solid color or use a dye/toner combo to re-color the body. First, you need to know what the finish is you have, nitro or poly, then go from there. You might think of recoloring to a one color scheme, 2 color9front and back) or a burst effect. Knowing the option you want to use, then we may help you chose the procedure to use.

LightGroove · #6 11-08-2008, 12:07 PM

Hey Lon,

Thanks for the input. I think I'll start with the recoloring/toning technique and if it fails then go with something solid.

How do I find out what the bass is finished in (poly/nitro) ?

Blessings
Michael

62bass · #7 11-08-2008, 02:11 PM

It almost certainly will be a poly finish. Almost all the major manufacturers use it for their production basses.But to test, wipe on some alcohol, like rubbing alcohol in an inconspicuous spot and see if it softens the finish. If not, it's not nitro.

You'll have to remove all the hardware, pickups and electronics before you refinish. Mask off any parts you don't want stain or finish to get on, like inside the pickup and control cavities. Then, if the finish is ding and dent free and doesn't require any filling or touch ups, you need to get a perfectly smooth matte surface for the stain to adhere to. I'd use 400 grit wet or dry paper by hand going very carefully until the surface is even and there are no shiny spots left.

Then was it down with a damp cloth and a drop of dish soap, rinse the residue off and follow up with a wipe of alcohol. It'll now accept a stain.

I'd use a gelled stain applied with a cloth pad which you wipe on and then remove with another cloth leaving the amount of stain on the body you want. Minwax, and many others make good gelled stains. I like Old Masters or Woodkote which I can find easily here. When the stain has dried completely, like 3 or 4 days in a warm room, you can clear coat it to seal the stain in and offer protection. You'll need to use several clear coats and rub it out to a high gloss in the end. But that's just a brief overview of what needs to be done. Start researching and reading and then practice on a piece of cheap, disposable furniture until you can produce a result.

Nomad98 · #8 11-09-2008, 09:15 AM

Seems like you have a nice looking bass with the potential to refinish it and TOTALY devalue the instrument!? Why don't you buy a cheap body off the bay and play with that to see if can get a finish that you like. Believe me, getting a nice finish on an instrument is not that easy.

Even if you do get a good finish on that bass you will still devalue the instrument. IMHO

LightGroove · #9 11-09-2008, 11:41 AM

Point taken nomad,

This bass is actually 5 or so years old. Its been sitting a lot since I've purchased it. I picked it up simply because of the deal I got on it. I don't ever intend on selling it so the value is really not a concern for me at this point.

Blessings

LightGroove · #10 11-09-2008, 11:45 AM

Hey 62,

I was tooling around out local Lowes and saw a few "wood finishing" products. There were tons of poly solutions, some with built in staining properties. There was a product that looked like a wax finish that hardened and had a glass like end result. Would this work?

62bass · #11 11-09-2008, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightGroove

Hey 62,

I was tooling around out local Lowes and saw a few "wood finishing" products. There were tons of poly solutions, some with built in staining properties. There was a product that looked like a wax finish that hardened and had a glass like end result. Would this work?

Give me some brand and product names and I can tell you more. The waxlike product could be a gelled polyurethane finish. They're easy to work with and apply with a cloth, but not the best to end up with a gloss finish. For your clear coat over the stain (and use a gelled stain for sure for this) there are various top coats. A spray on poly or wipe on poly would be easiest. I don't like the varnishes that have a stain mixed in with them. They just don't look right to me.

Anyhow, you're way ahead of yourself at this point unless you already have read up on what you need to know and then you'd know what to buy.

XansNiceSweater · #12 11-09-2008, 09:52 PM

I wanted to bump this as I have an Old Fernandes that I hate the finish on, I think it was, at one time, refinished very very poorly by a previous owner.

I know spraypaint isn't "ideal," but could someone tell me why it isn't?

62bass · #13 11-10-2008, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XansNiceSweater

I wanted to bump this as I have an Old Fernandes that I hate the finish on, I think it was, at one time, refinished very very poorly by a previous owner.

I know spraypaint isn't "ideal," but could someone tell me why it isn't?

Spray paints come in various types of paint. Some are more suitable than others. Often the person applying the spray paint is the problem. I've seen some pretty bad amateur jobs myself. My first attempts with spray paints weren't all that great either. Neither were my other finishing jobs. I got better with practice and also researching the best materials and methods of application.

It's possible to get some very nice finishes using spray paints. But it's very important that you do a good job on the preparation steps, select the right paint, apply it properly and in general have some experience. It's best to waste a can or two of finish practicing on scrap wood first.

Spray paint can be "ideal" if you don't have the equipment and proper shop for a professional spray painting set up.

dmusic148 · #14 11-10-2008, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightGroove

Here are a few pics... I don't think Schecter put a lot of effort in the quilting process. You can make a little quilt out in the picture of the front.

You do know that the quilt is part of the wood, not the finish?

LightGroove · #15 11-10-2008, 01:05 PM

Yes DMusic... I am ignorant but not that ignorant. I've seen some really intense quilting (ala Keith Roscoe) and have read that it takes some work and know how to get it to jump out. Obviously it isn't financially feasible for Schecter to commit this type of effort on a mainstream model. The quilt on mine is lack luster at best...my only point.

LightGroove · #16 11-10-2008, 01:08 PM

Yes 62 I do tend to get ahead of myself...thanks for the reminder

Anyways I'll do some research over the coming days and check back in with my progress.

Oh I was curious...are there pro's/con's to using power tools. I hand sanded the poly off but was curious if I hit it again with a palm sander if that would be detrimental or helpful ??

Blessings
Michael