Made some progress on the Neck today.
All of the hardware is on order and has been shipped, so has the custom pickguard from Terrapin guitars. Mary has taken over for John (R.I.P.) and will be making me a custom pick guard from a tracing. You check out their work here.. www.terrapinguitars.com
They have PDF files you can down load and print to make sure it fits or you can make a custom tracing on paper and mail it to them.
With everything basically on it's way, I'll have everything to completely assemble this by the end of the week. So, I better get workin on the neck. So here is what I've done so far.
I always use 3 to 4 coats of true oil cut with mineral spirits as a "sealer". It seals the wood really well plus it ads a bit of a "honey" look to it. I wipe it on, let it soak for about 15 minutes (until just before it gets tacky) then I wipe it off. I do this all over the neck front and back.
Then I like using Poly as my top coats. (total front, headstock and heal only on back) You can use anything from Minwax to Valspar or what ever, just make sure you apply it according to the label. (i.e. don't spray wipe on poly and make sure you know how to prep regular poly if you want to wipe it on.) I like to thin it to about a 60/40 ratio (60 poly/40 mineral sprits)
Wiping on will take many more coats. But you don't have to invest in spray equipment either. A word of advice. If you want to wipe it on, just buy the wipe on stuff from Minwax. It's really EZ to use.
Anyone that has followed any of my build threads knows that I like to use Sam Maloof's oil/poly blend on the back (shaft portion) of my necks. (I learned this trick from a Fender Custom shop builder that came through my town to show off his stuff) If you order a custom shop bass, mostly likely this is the finish it will have on it. You can find it at rockler wood working. http://www.rockler.com
. I only use it on the back of the neck. (I'll show this in my final neck finishing portion)
So here are some pics with 1 coat of poly.
I let this cure over night then I buff using 0000 steel wool. This gets all of the dust nibs off plus it levels it without going through the finish.
Notice I don't tape off the frets. They come clean using the steel wool pretty easily. I will do more fret work in the end anyway, so any poly will be long gone by the time I'm done. To make the job easier and to make sure not too much poly builds up, I clean them off using the steel wool between coats
Next it's time for the decal.
And now for a second coat. Notice this coat (still wet) has some "Orange Peal" to it. This will mostly level out. What doesn't level out, I will level with the steel wool after curing for at least 24 hours.
I'll repeat this process for a third coat and decide if it needs a 4th depending on whether or not the decal is completely concealed in the poly. After the final coat, I'll buff with steel wool, then use fine and super fine buffing compound on a buffing wheel. If needed, I'll also use the scratch remover and wax I used on the body.
Till next time.
Thanks for looking.