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02-18-2008, 01:01 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona | | | New Thickness/ Profile
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I know the profile of a neck is a subjective matter, my question is what is the minimum thickness you guys have under any given truss rod?
On my current build I have a Hot Rod two way. I have laid out the profile per the attached but the neck feels like and old Les Paul neck (read: BASEBALL BAT)  | 
02-18-2008, 01:06 PM
| | DEATH BEFORE DECAF!!! | | Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Kennesaw GA. | | | This is a 5 string?
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02-18-2008, 01:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona | | | Yes, it is a 5 string. | 
02-18-2008, 01:25 PM
|  | Registered User Builder: Jon's Basses | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Fort Worth, TX | | | Over 1/8" of thickness is safe. Which is a little more than 9/16" or .625" not including the fingerboard for the hot rod truss rod, that is if you routed precisely 7/16" of depth. The neck I am working on now has a fingerboard thickness of .200" and neck thickness of .650, so .850" total thickness. I plan on switching to a thinner truss rod so I can get my necks just a tad more slim.
Don't forget to calculate everything properly so you don't get too thin on the neck. | 
02-18-2008, 01:27 PM
|  | Registered User Shawn Ball - Owner, SDB Guitars | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID | | | yeah, the generally accepted minimum thickness beneath the truss rod is 1/8".
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02-18-2008, 01:37 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona | | Okay. Awesome. I routed the channel dead on to the 7/16 mark as the top of the brass ends sit flush with the top of the neck. Looks like I have a LOT more carving to do.
Anyone not put silicone at the end of their truss rods? | 
02-18-2008, 02:40 PM
|  | Registered User Builder: Jon's Basses | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Fort Worth, TX | | | No need under the brass inserts. If the route is straight, then when you tighten the truss rod it certainly wont move and will stay in place since it's under tension. However, the PVC material may rattle and StewMac recommends using a bit of silicone beneath it. I have used silicone in one neck and none in two and I can't tell the difference. When the rod is under tension, there is zero rattle. | 
02-18-2008, 08:40 PM
| | Registered User Owner Fried Guitars Inc. | | | | | I feel that the stewmac rods move the neck the best. I usually follow the rule for 1/8". By looking at a truss rod function you can see that the most movement is in the center of the rod and this is consequently where the neck will begin to fill out unless you are building a paper thin neck. I have built a few necks on the thin side and have never had a problem with it. I have built an acoustic that went way too thin and there was still no problem after years and that was using mahogany. | 
02-18-2008, 09:00 PM
|  | Registered User Shawn Ball - Owner, SDB Guitars | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID | | | I generally make my neck blanks either 5/8" thick (occasionally) or 3/4" thick (more often than not)... this allows for the thickness needed by the truss rod, and doesn't waste the wood.
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02-18-2008, 09:04 PM
|  | Registered User Builder: Jon's Basses | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Fort Worth, TX | | Quote:
Originally Posted by SDB Guitars I generally make my neck blanks either 5/8" thick (occasionally) or 3/4" thick (more often than not)... this allows for the thickness needed by the truss rod, and doesn't waste the wood. | This is important. Especially if you decide to use a rasp or microplane to shape your neck, you'll end up with popeye forearms by the time you're done with the job. | 
02-19-2008, 09:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona | | I'm suffering the Popeye syndrome now as I cut my blank from 3" down to 1 1/2" tick at the neck to 2" at the heel. Makes for a nice workout though.
I have another blank that is 3"Wx2 1/2"Hx48"L. I guess I can get a couple of instruments from this piece if I use a scarf joint at the neck? | 
02-19-2008, 11:59 AM
|  | Registered User Shawn Ball - Owner, SDB Guitars | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RAHAZ I'm suffering the Popeye syndrome now as I cut my blank from 3" down to 1 1/2" tick at the neck to 2" at the heel. Makes for a nice workout though.
I have another blank that is 3"Wx2 1/2"Hx48"L. I guess I can get a couple of instruments from this piece if I use a scarf joint at the neck? | With a thin kerf bandsaw blade and careful saw work, I could get three 5/8" thicm, neck blanks out of that.
If you are trying to do it without a scarf joint, you could get two necks out of that. Just plane the faces true, then bandsaw the basic back profile out with the two necks laid out headstock-to-heel (see attachment)
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02-19-2008, 01:34 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona | | Cool. When I started on this first build I made a very large blank. Split it in two, one I am carving on for this bass the second looks like I will be splitting up for a couple "piccolo basses" (read: the G word)  | 
02-21-2008, 08:03 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Lawrence KS | | | I just wanted to thank you for asking that question
i'm in the same position now, hot rod truss rod and a really thick neck and i'm absolutely terrified of carving it too much
but if 9/16" is the goal, it looks like i can go another 1/8" and be safe
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02-21-2008, 11:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Arizona | | Glad I could ask a question that would help someone else out.
I drew up the neck profile in negative and then cut it out of cardboard so I could check as I went along carving. This method has worked well for me. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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