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  #21  
Old 10-21-2009, 05:29 PM
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the Woodslicers are nice when they're new ... be careful since they tend to go from sharp to dull (and wacky) in a very short period of time (not meaning they don't last a long time, just that the window between starting to lose its sharpness to it being squirrely is very small)

you can cut many tops just fine and then you'll have one where you need to push a little more than normal, the next one will require a little more pushing than the previous one, and then BAM!!! right in the middle of BMing a $300 top it'll go dull and start wandering all over the place on you

the key is to recognize that first time you need to push a little extra, and then either switch to a new blade right away or hold-off cutting your really expensive tops until you have time to swap out the blade for a fresh one


another nice feature of the Woodslicer is that they leave a very smooth face on the wood when you have it all dialed-in

all the best,

R
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  #22  
Old 10-21-2009, 05:45 PM
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deffintly next on my list after some new spokeshaves and saw rasp.
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2009, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodent View Post
hold-off cutting your really expensive tops until you have time to swap out the blade for a fresh one
R
Yeah, this is the plan. I'd rather do any non resawing with a gp blade, the woodslicer is about 3x the price of a gp blade.
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  #24  
Old 10-22-2009, 07:13 AM
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wow Jason, I had never heard of blade drift before, I know exactly what it is though. I used to go crazy when resawing, I had to go really slow to avoid it. Can you elaborate a little more on how you adjusted this? especially the first step, cutting the poplar?
  #25  
Old 10-22-2009, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by T2W View Post
wow Jason, I had never heard of blade drift before, I know exactly what it is though. I used to go crazy when resawing, I had to go really slow to avoid it. Can you elaborate a little more on how you adjusted this? especially the first step, cutting the poplar?
Mario,
I did some research on bandsaw fences and the Kreg seemed to be one that emphasized on blade drift. That was a major sell for me. With which ever wood you choose to cut, for the angle reference, I just kept it going in the same cutting direction as the line, then clamped it down lightly. There are 2 bolts on the sliding portion of the locking guide, that is in 2 sections, allowing it to move to the position required, once slid into place and then just tighten it back up.

A video, I stumbled onto when I was comparing (The one that sold me on the Kreg):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_y03N...layer_embedded
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Last edited by Rickett Customs : 10-22-2009 at 07:47 AM.
  #26  
Old 10-22-2009, 08:45 AM
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My re-saw system is the delta with the riser a 1.5hp motor and the fence in the video. I really wish I understood the adjustment for blade drift better I am not sure how the video demo shows how to adjust it sorry I just may be thick.
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  #27  
Old 10-22-2009, 08:58 AM
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Tom,
There are 2 bolts that lock the fence to the part that sits on the rail, that have some wiggle room to go back and forth, when loosened:






....or are you just pulling my leg
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  #28  
Old 10-22-2009, 09:17 AM
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no not pulling your leg just not clear on how to use them to make up for the blade drift....t
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  #29  
Old 10-23-2009, 11:24 AM
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The micro adjuster and 7" resaw guide is in today, i'll post some pics later.
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  #30  
Old 10-24-2009, 09:08 AM
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and now here's the 7" resaw guide:








Here is the micro adjuster, anything under 3/4" can be slid while still being locked in place, at least locked by the micro adjuster while moving it.





and that's it, at least for this one.
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