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  #1  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:31 PM
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Newbie question

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This may be a dumb question but if you are building a 34" scale bass, and using a hipshot A style bride. From the face of the nut where do you place the bridge to get you scale length. The front of the bridge bass plate? The mounting holes? Center of the saddle adjustment? I've been on this forum like crazy lately and you guys have really inspired me to attempt my own build. I will probably fail miserably but I least I can say I tried. I know I can count on you experienced guys for helpful tips. Thanks
Oh yeah....What the heck are you guys talking about...mid hump????
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Last edited by bassdaddy5 : 05-09-2008 at 02:36 PM. Reason: Add more
  #2  
Old 05-09-2008, 03:10 PM
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34" scale means a 34" vibrating string length. So, it's the front of the nut to the bridge saddle. Since there's more than one saddle, I take the average center position of the saddles.

Best of luck!
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  #3  
Old 05-09-2008, 03:49 PM
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Mid hump is a reference to Ramirez basses. You'll have to ask Wilser 'bout that, he may have trademarked that, so watch how you use it
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  #4  
Old 05-09-2008, 04:34 PM
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Since setting intonation always involves lengthening the string, you want to have 34" with the saddles extended almost as far as they can go towards the nut.
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  #5  
Old 05-09-2008, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Son of Magni View Post
Since setting intonation always involves lengthening the string, you want to have 34" with the saddles extended almost as far as they can go towards the nut.
That's a good point to bring up
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2008, 07:08 PM
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Since setting intonation always involves lengthening the string
I don't understand why ??
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:55 PM
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Please people. If you don't know don't guess!

34" is a theoretical length. All of the strings will be a little longer than that depending on the action height and the size of the individual strings. This is commonly called "compensation".

A string vibrating at a given length under a given tension will vibrate at a certain rate producing a particular note. When you fret the string you not only shorten it, but you also stretch the string by pressing it towards the fret or the finger board. This will increase the pitch slightly just like doing a bend. This is why we make the strings slightly longer, to compensate for the stretch.

If you want to really understand this I recommend A Luthiers Handbook by Roger Siminoff. Great stuff on string dynamics.

Set your bridge so that the saddles are a minimum of 34" or what ever your theoretical scale is. Make sure you have enough adjustment to get good compensation.

Greg N
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson Guitars View Post
Please people. If you don't know don't guess!...

...When you fret the string you not only shorten it, but you also stretch the string by pressing it towards the fret or the finger board. This will increase the pitch slightly just like doing a bend. This is why we make the strings slightly longer, to compensate for the stretch...
No disrespect, but this isn't actually true. I mean sure, it does stretch the string and that makes a tiny difference, but the reason we need compensation is to compensate for the fact that as the vibrating length shortens its stiffness has an increasing effect on it's pitch. So for any given string under a fixed tension, as you shorten it's length it becomes increasingly sharp compared to what you would calculate based on mass vs tension.

(IMHO)
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Last edited by Son of Magni : 05-09-2008 at 09:08 PM.
  #9  
Old 05-09-2008, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson Guitars View Post
Please people. If you don't know don't guess!

34" is a theoretical length. All of the strings will be a little longer than that depending on the action height and the size of the individual strings. This is commonly called "compensation".

A string vibrating at a given length under a given tension will vibrate at a certain rate producing a particular note. When you fret the string you not only shorten it, but you also stretch the string by pressing it towards the fret or the finger board. This will increase the pitch slightly just like doing a bend. This is why we make the strings slightly longer, to compensate for the stretch.

If you want to really understand this I recommend A Luthiers Handbook by Roger Siminoff. Great stuff on string dynamics.

Set your bridge so that the saddles are a minimum of 34" or what ever your theoretical scale is. Make sure you have enough adjustment to get good compensation.

Greg N

Maybe that's why my intonation always sucks .

Seriously, do you have an idea as to the real-world string length once compensation has been made? Can it add as much as 1/4 to 1/2 an inch?
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  #10  
Old 05-09-2008, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Son of Magni View Post
the reason we need compensation is to compensate for the fact that as the vibrating length shortens its stiffness has an increasing effect on it's pitch. So for any given string under a fixed tension, as you shorten it's length it becomes increasingly sharp compared to what you would calculate based on mass vs tension.
I have been through that discussion before and have done a little testing to see what is what. Longer compensation is needed with higher action. That I don't doubt. Experience has shown me this. This is because the string is stretched to a greater degree. Try it and you will see. That doesn't completely discount the notion of a shorter string being stiffer but that is exactly what you want it to be to make the note change. If strings responded consistently like that we could simply change the fret spacing, get perfect intonation all the time and quit fiddling around with compensation.

Try this if you need to prove it to yourself. Make a fret shim that sits on top of your existing fret and fills the space that is normally your action at the 12th fret. Using a strobe tuner, set your compensation so that an open string and one fretted with the shim and a capo that does not stretch the string are exactly an octave apart. Measure the total scale length and you will be exactly double the distance from the nut to the 12th. Now remove the shim and fret normally or even aggressively and very close to the fret. The same string under the same tension at the same fret will intonate sharp.

Let me know if you get a different result than I did. Science requires multiple tests under similar conditions to come to any reasonable conclusion. When I did it it just proved it to me and no one else. If you get different results I may have to revisit my previous experiment. BTW. I was testing on a steel string acoustic which is shorter scale. I would expect the difference to be more easily measured with longer scales.

Greg N

"Can it add as much as 1/4 to 1/2 an inch?"

I guess you were posting when I was. Yes. Depending on string size, scale length and action that would not be unimaginable with the larger diameter strings.

A beginners guide to compensation. Get a good accurate tuner. Hit the harmonic at the 12 then fret the 12. The harmonic is the essence of an octave on the string so use that as your basis for adjustment, not the fretted note. If the fretted note is sharper than the harmonic then increase the distance from the saddle to the nut. If it is flatter, then decrease the distance. That will be good for 95% of the players out there. There are those who like different compensations due to the chords they typically play and their ability to hear things I honestly can't. They are few and far between so I wouldn't worry about them.
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Last edited by Nelson Guitars : 05-09-2008 at 10:16 PM.
  #11  
Old 05-10-2008, 02:58 PM
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So, to keep it simple for a beginner, adjust your saddles almost all the way towards the nut (leave a little room just to be safe) and then mount your bridge so that the saddle is 34" (or whatever scale length) from the front edge of the nut.

-Nick
  #12  
Old 05-10-2008, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basschair View Post
Maybe that's why my intonation always sucks .

Seriously, do you have an idea as to the real-world string length once compensation has been made? Can it add as much as 1/4 to 1/2 an inch?
yep. With a high action it can be pretty huge. 1/4" is probably pretty common even with a decent setup.

Back when I was first learning before I really knew how to set my stuff up properly my bass had a rediculously high action. I had some fairly heavy strings on it, and I had to crank my E string saddle in pretty much as far as I could. (maybe 3/4 inch) That's a fairly extreme example, though. The lower your action, the less compensation you need.

-Nick
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