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  #1  
Old 08-04-2006, 05:06 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
nitro cellurose lacquer repair

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I got a 1986 Fodera Emperor elite 5 and think it was finished with NC but the condition of the finishing maily the body is in bad shape.
There are lots of chip-away finishing in various spots and I thought of fixing them but not refinishing the bass as I like to keep it as is. The trouble is the wood is exposed at those spots an will not be OK in the long run, get dirty.

I thinught of tuching it with brush at the spots but I not sure if the OEM NC will accept the new NC or should I consider different finish.

Thanks
  #2  
Old 08-04-2006, 06:26 AM
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Wreck Guitars
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Croatia
How big are the damaged spots,if small drop in them lacquer, repeat after drying,then sand it and polish.If they are bigger you have to refinish it, complicated it is but trust me this is the only way to do it right ,pretty nice bass to be waisted with a bad finish, greetings
  #3  
Old 08-04-2006, 09:36 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wreck
How big are the damaged spots,if small drop in them lacquer, repeat after drying,then sand it and polish.If they are bigger you have to refinish it, complicated it is but trust me this is the only way to do it right ,pretty nice bass to be waisted with a bad finish, greetings
most of them are small but few are big too
  #4  
Old 08-04-2006, 09:56 AM
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Less barking, more wagging!
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
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Nitrocellulose Lacquer Repair

I can tell you as a furniture & cabinet maker that making invisible repairs to NCL isn't easy - especially with a high-gloss finish - but with sufficient practice it is possible.

In general, the harder (more "bullet-proof") and shinier a finish is, the more difficult it is to repair. That's why I use sanded-in oil finishes and French polish to finish my basses: it looks great and is [relatively] easy to repair

The good news is that successive coats of NCL chemically bond with one another, forming a single, unified, layer - which makes repairs far easier than if your axe were finished with a product that builds in discrete layers, like varnish.

The bad news is that it will be difficult to blend the repair so it doesn't show - especially if the NCL has color in it . Do you know whether the NCL is clear or tinted?

My suggestions are:

Contact the maker and see what they can tell you about the finish. Do they repair finishes?

Don't mess with NCL unless you are properly set up: if you have to, work outdoors. NCL is a bi-product of gun cotton and is extremely volatile (a spray booth set up for NCL has to have explosion-proof fans, light switches, etc.).

Practice NCL repairs on scrap before you tackle your bass.

The key to blending a repair into the surrounding area is wet-sanding with well-lubricated micro-abrasives.

Good luck!
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Sanded-in oil finish tutorial: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/thread384222.html

Last edited by Jazzdogg : 08-04-2006 at 10:05 AM.
  #5  
Old 08-04-2006, 10:27 PM
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Location: Bangkok, Thailand
jazzdogg,
I will not spray the bass with NCL as I don't have my house insured but I will try with the tuch-up.
Thanks for the tips.
  #6  
Old 08-04-2006, 10:34 PM
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Less barking, more wagging!
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
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Finish Repairs

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalie
jazzdogg,
I will not spray the bass with NCL as I don't have my house insured but I will try with the tuch-up.
Thanks for the tips.

Welx! (you're welcome)


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Sanded-in oil finish tutorial: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/thread384222.html
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