Non-invasive way of attaching Straploks that works needed

JimmyM · #1 03-18-2007, 06:12 PM

After much soul-searching, I have decided to put Straploks on my 79 Precision because I can't stand being without them. But the problem is how do you make them stay on without doing something totally invasive?

We all know that standard Fender strap button screws are bigger than the Dunlop screws, so the hole has to be plugged. The conventional method is to break a piece of popsicle stick off and stick it in the hole. I have also heard of people using a piece of guitar string along with the piece of wood. I have tried both those methods and neither work. Invariably, the Straplok screw works its way loose and falls out.

Now my sure-fire method of getting them to stay is to lightly cover the plug wood and tip of the screw threads in epoxy and then screw it in. This has never failed me. However, it's more or less permanent, and much too invasive for a collector's item.

So I need to know what most luthiers would suggest I do that will hold the screws in while not being invasive and damaging to the wood. Thank you in advance.

Musiclogic · #2 03-18-2007, 06:59 PM

Fill the hole with a dowell and a little wood glue, let dry over night, drill smaller hole for straplock screw, screw it in. If you decide to change back, all you do is drill out the hoe a little larger(1/32) and the original threads right back like new. It's the only way to make it stay for any period of time.

DSB1 · #3 03-18-2007, 08:10 PM

Drill out the straplock button so the original screw fits. I personally wouldn't use dowels or epoxy if you have a way of enlarging the straplock holes.

jsbass · #4 03-18-2007, 08:14 PM

New Fenders don't have to be messed with. :P

JimmyM · #5 03-18-2007, 09:30 PM

Yes they do. New Fender have Schallers. I'm a Dunlop man.

Well, I'm a little depressed. I was hoping for an easier answer than drilling. Oh well, maybe I can learn to live with the strap buttons. Thanks anyway.

Beej · #6 03-18-2007, 09:39 PM

I'm guessing you don't have a drill?

If drilling out the straplock button is out of the question for you, I see nothing wrong with putting wood slivers and epoxy in the hole and then screwing it in place with the new skinny screw. It won't be permanent, the screw will still screw back out again, despite the epoxy, it will just be tighter. When the time comes that you want to put the old buttons back on, you will need to drill it back out though.

JimmyM · #7 03-18-2007, 09:51 PM

No, I own a drill. I just can't drill very accurately. And if I don't drill dead center down the dowel, I would be heartsick. Despite wanting to use it onstage, it's an investment.

I would love to do the epoxy, but I'm just a little freaked out by its permanence.

Dan1099 · #8 03-18-2007, 09:57 PM

Dunlop screws weren't any smaller than the stock screws in my Fender Marcus Miller. I thought it was the Schallers with the small screw.

Beej · #9 03-18-2007, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyM

No, I own a drill. I just can't drill very accurately. And if I don't drill dead center down the dowel, I would be heartsick. Despite wanting to use it onstage, it's an investment.

I would love to do the epoxy, but I'm just a little freaked out by its permanence.

If you don't want to drill into the bass, you might try drilling out the straplock button instead...

Trevorus · #10 03-18-2007, 10:16 PM

Even better than all that, don't change the strap pins...

Check it! http://www.jimdunlop.com/index.php?p...ts/accessories

Musiclogic · #11 03-18-2007, 10:31 PM

good call Trev, was just going to post those as an option.
+1

JimmyM · #12 03-18-2007, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevorus

Even better than all that, don't change the strap pins...

Check it! http://www.jimdunlop.com/index.php?p...ts/accessories

Good product, but unwieldy in a live situation. I use a wireless and when I change basses I use the same wireless, which is taped to the strap.

Musiclogic · #13 03-18-2007, 10:55 PM

Well...looks like the Blender stays home, or you go to a luthier and have it done correctly.

Trevorus · #14 03-18-2007, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyM

Good product, but unwieldy in a live situation. I use a wireless and when I change basses I use the same wireless, which is taped to the strap.

I do the same thing, but there are some costs to each situation. Sometimes you have to weight the pro's and cons.

Bryan316 · #15 03-19-2007, 09:02 AM

THESE THINGS SUCK. ABSOLUTELY SUCK.

They've changed their design. Many years ago, they made a round version that was designed correctly and constructed sturdy. Now with this guitar pick shape, the two halves pop loose frequently. Untrustworthy. I'm glad we bought so many of the original style and pocketed them, cuz the new design is horrible and unsafe. I've even bought this style from a different store, hoping I just got a bad batch. Nope, they're all terrible.

lovefoundanew · #16 03-19-2007, 09:53 AM

I've used a couple of methods that worked for years, neither permanent.

My first bass, a MIM fender P, i bought used and the strap button on the bridge end has wallered out (i'm from TX). I wanted to put straplocks in anyway so the guitarist in my current bdn at the time helped me break tooth picks off and used elmers wood glue and filled the entire hole, let it dry ovenight, and then screwed the straplock in. That lasted for years of guitar spins and bouncing around till i guess i spinned it the wrong way.

I've done the epoxy too. I used it to put straplocks on on the neck end of a bass. It stayed for years until I switched colors of straplocks. I was worried about it coming out but when I unscrewe it it came out just like it was in wood and after the screw came out the epoxy all fell out too!

Hope this helps!

Jazzdogg · #17 03-19-2007, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyM

No, I own a drill. I just can't drill very accurately. And if I don't drill dead center down the dowel, I would be heartsick. Despite wanting to use it onstage, it's an investment.

I would love to do the epoxy, but I'm just a little freaked out by its permanence.

1. Start by using a center punch to make an indentation that enables you to position the drill bit exactly where you want it.
2. Use brad-point bits, not twist drills, when drilling wood.
3. Don't try to plunge the drill bit to its full depth in one shove; pull out the drill bit frequently to clear the chips.

bassmonkeee · #18 03-19-2007, 11:22 AM

Drink 2 Grolsch "swingtop" beers. After consuming beer, remove red grommets.

Put grommets over strap buttons on bass after strap is attached.

Drink 2 more Grolsch beers to celebrate.

JimmyM · #19 03-19-2007, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazzdogg

1. Start by using a center punch to make an indentation that enables you to position the drill bit exactly where you want it.
2. Use brad-point bits, not twist drills, when drilling wood.
3. Don't try to plunge the drill bit to its full depth in one shove; pull out the drill bit frequently to clear the chips.

Wow, number two is a biggie, isn't it? No wonder I could never drill in wood properly! I think number 3 is a big one, too. I have to admit that impatience gets the best of me and I will plunge.

Thanks for the tips. I'll buy a brad point bit and a piece of 2 x 4 and do some practicing.

Brad Johnson · #20 03-19-2007, 12:10 PM

Jimmy, the epoxy isn't a bad idea... if you let it dry first. It won't be permanent at that point (like permanently putting the screw in as you mentioned), you could drill into it and it should hold and still allow screw removal if needed.

While a wood dowel is probably preferred, I've had no issues with holes that I'd put the "pointed on both ends" types of toothpick in. Break off the pointed end and push to the bottom of the hole. Stuff them in the hole, it just gives the screw more to bite on. If you want, wood glue could also be used with the toothpicks and even if you didn't let it dry it could still be unscrewed later on. Best of all, no drilling, little to nothing to buy (maybe a buck for toothpicks, free at most restaurants)