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  #1  
Old 02-03-2008, 09:41 PM
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Nut job

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Today I needed to make a nut for the 7 string bass I am building so I thought I would take some pictures of my layout process.

First of all, I am using a zero fret on this so I am not going to be anal about my nut material or the action height. It's more like a string spacer with a zero fret. Now, the important thing is to get the spaces between the strings equal, not the center lines. You can buy fancy string spacing rulers for big bucks if you like but I find the following too easy to warrant any expense for a special ruler.

I won't be doing a final polish on the instrument until all of the set up is done. The nut in the following photos is sanded to 320 and still has a way to go, but again that will wait until I have her playing well. The first photo shows the outer most strings already notched and in place. I like just a little under 1/8" from the treble side of the neck to the string and dead on 1/8" on the bass side. I am using my digital caliper (wow they make these cheap these days!) to measure the distance between the strings.



Next I subtract the thickness' of the remaining strings and divide the result by 6 (7 string bass = 6 spaces between strings). This gives me the space between the strings. Then I just set up the caliper to the space and scratch a mark in the nut, add the string thickness, scratch another mark, add the space, scratch, add next string thickness, scratch, etc.





I like scratching my nuts. You should try scratching your nuts too. It's hard to see when it's bone though. (No jokes about what your Mother said would happen if you scratch your nuts.) The white bone doesn't show scratch marks well. Just rub some graphite over your bone and you will be able to see the marks.

Next I saw down the center of each string location to give the file a path to follow. I find this keeps me from wandering off the line much. I also have the outer limits of each string defined so that I can tell if I am filing one direction or another.



Then I file close but tight with various files.



And finally finish the fit by using a numbered drill bit set to size the notch.



I take care even with zero frets to have a V shaped bottom. This cuts down on the chance of a buzz coming from a string that has bottomed out but is just a little sloppy on the sides.

If this were not a zero fret I would have made the notches too high to start and then worry them down little by little until the action was right.

Not the way just my way. Hope this helped someone.

Greg N
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Last edited by Nelson Guitars : 02-03-2008 at 09:44 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-04-2008, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson Guitars View Post
Nut job
That's me.
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2008, 05:33 PM
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Thats a beautiful headstock and I found your series of pics really useful. I'm happy I will only have 4 strings to worry about but my previous supply of ready-slotted nuts will not do for my current build, so I am going to have to cut from scratch and scratch my nuts.
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  #4  
Old 02-04-2008, 05:41 PM
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Great tutorial. Do you use the drill bits like reamers?
  #5  
Old 02-04-2008, 06:14 PM
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Nice and very informational, I'm just fighting back the chuckles from all that funny nut scratching talk! LOL
This should be a sticky I would think.
Doh! Another funny, hahaha
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:07 PM
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Should save someone from busting a nut, great tutorial. Beautiful headstock!
  #7  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:14 PM
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It's good to see people focusing more on their nuts. Seriously though, it is a good example on how to file them, and I'm sure when people shall use your example, they shall end up with nice smooth nuts. I hate it when my g-string rubs up against my nut the wrong way, and thankfully you have shown us all how to properly scratch our nuts.
I'm all out of corny innuendo. Others need to take over!
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:15 PM
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Ah! I just noticed who the OP was! I love your basses! Do you have a website I can check out?
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:47 PM
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Thumbs up

great tutorial Greg!

nice to see someone else who aims for equal spacing at the nut - it's what all of my clients prefer, and definitely the most comfortable of the several options IMO

all the best,

R
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  #10  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProgRapture View Post
Do you have a website I can check out?
I really need to do that. This "hobby" is quickly becoming a going concern. Even without it I have Two builds waiting to go and several more in the design phase.

Guess I have to raise my prices....

Greg N
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  #11  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodent View Post
nice to see someone else who aims for equal spacing at the nut
The only short coming is that your dots or what ever inlay you do needs to be off center slightly or it doesn't line up with the string spacing. I keep forgetting to do that.

Greg N
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2008, 08:14 AM
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Am I seeing needle files or are these regular nut files?
  #13  
Old 02-05-2008, 02:08 PM
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Great info-
Like the drill idea - will try it out this weekend. Thanks for the time!
Aloha, David
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2008, 04:55 PM
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Great Thread! As a novice I really appreciate the information.

Cheers,
Jim
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  #15  
Old 02-05-2008, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyl View Post
Am I seeing needle files or are these regular nut files?
One is a saw sharpening file (very tight diamond shape), another is a tapered rat tail and the other is a tapering oval sort of file I got from LMI. I don't remember what they called it but it works great.

Greg N
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  #16  
Old 02-06-2008, 11:28 AM
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When I saw the title "Nut Job" I thought you'd discussing one of my ex-girfriends...
  #17  
Old 02-07-2008, 12:13 AM
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I can't stop laughing!

Needless to say, wow, that's how it's done! Cool! That was very informative!

Thank goodness I am not a "nut job"

That's the nuts and bolts of it all!


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  #18  
Old 02-07-2008, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rudyboy98 View Post
Thank goodness I am not a "nut job"
Can anyone be certain of that?

Really, it's just one of many ways and the one I currently use. There are other good methods out there. I would love it if others would share their techniques here or in separate threads.

Greg N
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  #19  
Old 02-07-2008, 11:29 AM
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From what I understand, some people like equal centers, and some like equal spacing, and some like somewhere between the two. The stewmac ruler produces "between the two" spacing. I think a Fender is somewhere in between, but I'm not sure of that. I can imagine intellectual arguments for both ways, but in the end, it's what you like that's important. And I wonder what percentage of players would notice a difference in the first place.

I posted a spreadsheet to lay out both versions a while back. I think it might be in the faq/sticky.

Note: if you are doing a f*nned multiscale fretboard, it is not simply a matter of choice. Deviating from equal centers will make the instrument unable to be properly intonated, to a degree determined by the fret slant angles, and by the amount of deviation from equal centers on the "worst" string, which is in turn governed by the differences in guage across the string set, and the number of strings.

On a standard parallel fret fretboard, this is not an issue.



Anyway, thanks for the pics and tutorial. Very nice. And that bass is awesome! That nautilus shell must go nearly clear through to the back of the headstock, right?
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Last edited by pilotjones : 02-07-2008 at 11:33 AM.
  #20  
Old 02-07-2008, 04:06 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson Guitars View Post
Can anyone be certain of that? Greg N
Well, maybe not everyone!



P.S. It looks like you build some beautiful guitars~!

Rock on!
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