Nut question for the experts

[Typicality]

Here is a pick of my nut and head.

My dilemna is on the D string only I have bad fret buzz from 5-7 on this particular string.

From reading it seems I have two options. Raise the bridge on the D string a tad or replace the nut. Just for testing purposes I'm going to install a new string on the D just to see if its a string problem before doing anything else.

Now comes the secondary part. I am pretty sure this nut plate covers my truss rod access. If I raise the bridge and it eliminates the buzz all will be well. However I still can't access the truss without removing all my strings; so if I cut the plate behind the two screws will it have enough tension still to hold the nut in place.

I'm actually thinking I need to replace the nut as the G string was filled by the local luthier when I had the setup done on this bass about 5 months ago. Anyone recommend a decent cost effective replacement.

[mbw82]

Hey buddy.

Nut problems will ONLY affect the open strings. Usually if the bridge saddles are too low, it will affect more than 3 frets. It sounds to me like you have a fret imbalance and they need to be evened-out.

[Typicality]

YEA!!!

So what about the second part of the question. Will the nut have enough stability if I remove cut the "back plating"?

It kills me not having access to the truss rod easily. I did some testing this morning without the amp and if I hit the open D I get a real light buzz. This only started recently. Obviously we're not talking a super high quality bass here so I have to wonder if just going full force and having the nut replaced with something a bit more durable than plastic will work. Like I said its only the D so far. I bought this bass used so I'm sure the nut is about a year or two old at least.

I haven't touched the truss rod on this bass, yet because I've been approaching it in segments. Learning string replacements and resoldering the electrics cause of the shoddy solder job on them.

[uprightben]

That plate is there to cover your truss rod only. It plays no part in holding your nut on. Nuts are mostly held on by string pressure and glue, and sometimes a couple of screws. If you feel like you need to adjust the truss rod, just unscrew the plate and slide it out of the way, no need to remove strings or cut anything. Make sure to only do quarter turns on the rod and wait at a good long while (maybe six hours) for the adjustment to take before you make another adjustment.

[Typicality]

so I can remove the excess covering with no issue to the nut then?

Just making sure I understand this portion but adjusting the truss rod doesn't mean I have to strip the strings off everytime right? Because if this is the case I'm going to remove the plating that covers the truss rod so I don't have to remove the strings, every time.

Of course if I'm following the advice of what I've managed to find I should check my setup every 3-6 months.

[RED5]

From what I'm reading here? If I were you I'd take it to a reputable set up guy and have him eyeball the whole deal. There's an education to be had there.

[Jools4001]

Originally Posted by Typicality

so I can remove the excess covering with no issue to the nut then?

Just making sure I understand this portion but adjusting the truss rod doesn't mean I have to strip the strings off everytime right? Because if this is the case I'm going to remove the plating that covers the truss rod so I don't have to remove the strings, every time.

Of course if I'm following the advice of what I've managed to find I should check my setup every 3-6 months.

No disrespect intended, but if you ask a question about whether the nut will be adequately supported if you remove the trussrod cover, it suggests you have an extremely limited knowledge of how your bass is built. Are you sure that you want to be messing around with a crucial adjustment like the trussrod until you know a bit more?

I would second the opinion that it would be better to take it to someone that knows what they're doing, then watch and learn.

BTW, There is no set 3-6 month maintenance period for truss rod adjustment. It may need adjusting due to changes in humidity or temperature affecting the neck, and it will need doing if you decide to alter the string guages you use or a different set of strings with different tension, but if you live in a reasonably stable climate and always use the same brand an type of string it may never need doing again.

[Typicality]

No disrespect taken. I have two basses one is my "good" bass so to speak and one is my "learning" bass. This one is my learning bass.

This one happens to be my learning and practice bass. I may have phrased the question wrong, so I'll try again. I also just noticed that it seems from the tone that you may think I'm talking of 2 different items, the truss rod cover is attached to the nut. So it is all one piece. Which is why I was was asking about trimming it a bit. A better picture probably would have been more beneficial.

I was more concerned about pressure on the nut area minus the back screw and plate looking area. I was curious that if I remove the back area which covers my truss rod adjustment area if there would be enough stability to handle the downward pressure of the strings. Trust me I take no disrespect in any comments. I'm just trying to fill the gaps in what little I know so I can make an educated guess on how to proceed.

As far as stable climate goes, I wish, we have a seasonal change where I live about every 3-4 months. This includes a marked difference in humidity and temp. Which is why I'd rather have access to the truss rod area.

So far I've learned how to remove and replace my pickups and how to wire up the pickups on this particular bass properly. Now since I have a new problem, I'd like to learn how to fix other areas in case the local guy who I entrust my other bass to should be unavailable. I'd ask him but unfortunately he is on vacation and I don't feel comfortable with the other gentleman in my area. I've had some friend's take their instruments to him and they came back in poor condition and had to be re-done by the other guy I normally go to.

I even have a care checklist and printed setup guide that my normal luthier gave me. Along with a checklist of measurements for fret height on each string. Very detailed information. He even let me sit and watch and ask questions each step while doing the setup and let me participate hands on. I love this guy, I just wish he wasn't on vacation. But everyone needs a vacation now and then.

All in all I'll probably wait till he returns and ask his opinion.

Oh and since I know I forgot initially, thanks for the information provided by all.

Since I would like access to the truss rod, would it be a better idea to replace the nut with one that doesn't cover the truss rod area?

[uprightben]

Your idea that the truss rod cover and the nut are connected and serving the same purpose is completley false. They are two seperate parts serving two different functions that are not related in any way. Take a phillips head screwdriver and remove the three screws holding the truss rod plate on. Do not remove the strings. Do not post here until you have done this.

[Nelson Guitars]

Truss rod covers are not only for looks. They are also a feeble attempt at keeping people from messing up their instruments by adjusting their truss rods. I can't tell you how many problems can be created by adjusting a rod when the real problem rests at the bridge, the neck pocket, a high fret and many more subtle things.

Truss rod adjustments should be reserved for neck relief issues alone and no more. Get an education before attempting this seemingly simple adjustment. Don't depend on your buddies to tell you what is going on. Find a good tech who is willing to share and then buy him a good meal or a fine bottle of wine in appreciation of the education.

Greg N

[Arx]

Don't be afraid to adjust the trussrod, but don't do it unless you're sure it needs to be adjusted. It's strictly for changing the bow in the neck.

You can get a rough idea whether or not it's needed by pressing down the first and last fret on the string. There should be a very small gap between the string and frets in the middle. if there's no gap, your neck is either perfectly flat, or it's backbowed, and needs the trussrod loosened. If it's a large gap, it needs the rod tightened.

Only tighten or loosen a tiny bit at a time (I usually do around 1/8th turn at most). I don't wait a long time, like some people suggest, all of my basses seem to adjust immediately, and don't continue to move.

One thing that I do strongly recommend though is to to at least roughtly re-tune, adjust the saddle heights, and set the intonation after each small adjustment. All of these adjustments are for different purposes, but they also interact, especially the tuning.

Are you sure the trussrod cover is attached to the nut? normally you can just take the 3 screws out and it'll slide off.

-Nick

[ctmullins]

One additional suggestion: It's not necessary to remove the strings while adjusting the truss rod, but it's a good idea to loosen them some, especially if you're trying to tighten the truss rod to counteract excessive relief. In that case, the tension of the strings will be working against you, and you'll have to use quite a bit of force on the nut, which could damage it. Detune the strings, tighten a quarter turn, retune and check.

[Arx]

Originally Posted by ctmullins

One additional suggestion: It's not necessary to remove the strings while adjusting the truss rod, but it's a good idea to loosen them some, especially if you're trying to tighten the truss rod to counteract excessive relief. In that case, the tension of the strings will be working against you, and you'll have to use quite a bit of force on the nut, which could damage it. Detune the strings, tighten a quarter turn, retune and check.

Yep, just don't forget the retune. If you set it up nice and flat with the strings loose, you'll probably have too much relief when they're tight again

[Typicality]

In response to your question. Yes I am sure the truss cover is attached to the nut I tried to remove it and it didn't budge an inch.

of course it may just be really set in there like if you have something screwed down for a long time and it embeds itself a tiny bit.

[Nelson Guitars]

I really don't think that cover is attached to the nut. More likely is that someone glued it down to keep it from buzzing or it has just become one with the finish over time. After removing the screws see if you can worry a chisel or razor blade under it to separate it from the peg head. It's best to dull the edge and corners of the razor blade first so you don't dig into anything you don't want to. Once it is free you should be able to lift it and it will at least "hinge" off the nut. If it doesn't separate by itself you can always cut it away with a sharp tool. If you don't want to do that, then you will have to remove the nut as well to access the truss rod. That would be a ridiculous detail for any manufacturer to devise so I doubt it will be the case.

Greg N

[Typicality]

I hope its not glued...course if they glued it they did a hell of a job because I can't find a seam between the nut and the cover area.

I'm going to try unscrewing it again. As far as the manufacturer... well it is a discontinued offbrand, so I can't comment on the construction quality. I will say this is by far the lightest of the basses I have managed to use and I love it.

I added a dull razorblade to my list of "bass tools". I have this nice rolled up cloth with areas for tools. Hexes, screwdriver, etc etc. Fits nicely in my big hard case and is very padded to so it doesn't bang around in the compartments.

Oh and Greg N trust me I rarely if ever mess with something without asking. I've made sure to study the setup guides for basses almost once a week (I know overkill). Even though I don't do the hands on portion I make sure I try to understand what is going on. I definitely wouldn't want to mess with my bass to much. When I did my first string replacements I re-read string setup guides about 10 times then took my time restringing. I think my first re-string took me about 2 and a half hours. I don't take mucking with my truss lightly, however the only way I will know how to do something is if I do it.

[Typicality]

Just a real quick thank you for the advice in this thread.

I managed to get the truss rod cover off, it was really butted up against the nut so it looked like a single piece.

Anywho I got the truss rodd cover off. Took my handy dandy pencil and marked the original position of the truss rod nut (I hope thats the correct term) and ever so slightly turned it left while looking up the neck to the head from the bottom of the bass..

I don't even think I made an eighth of turn. Anywho no more fret buzz. Thanks for the awesome advice. My baby sounds mucho better.

Oh and Greg thanks for the dull razor blade idea it did the trick in getting right under the plastic. While I had the cover off I took a slightly damp q-tip and cleaned out the grime also. Yes I'm a neat freak

I also marked the new position with a small wax tip pencil so when the guy who services my bass is back I can make sure he can see what I did. But for now it will get me by and no more nasty buzz.

[Nelson Guitars]

Good news. It is amazing what a little tweek can do with a rod. It's a balancing act where a little goes a long way.

Greg N