Oil Finishes

[Sippy]

I was laid off a few months ago... and I'm going crazy. So I'm taking an old Fender MIM jazz bass and going to redo it.
It's solid black; and I've rough sanded it already down to raw wood. Tomorrow i'm going to light sand it and i'm washing it down to bring out the grain.
I have ALWAYS loved natural bodies and maple neck/boards.
I'd like to get a similar finish to Tal Wilkenfeld's Sadowsky.
What do you all recommend for a bass finish? I know what her finish is... but I'm looking for an oil finish. Problem is a lot of the Tung oil and Tru-Oil that I've seen really tints the wood a lot. And hers is Almost 100% natural.
So in short I'm looking for an oil finish that adds gloss, brings out the grain. Thanks guys.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by Sippy

I was laid off a few months ago... and I'm going crazy. So I'm taking an old Fender MIM jazz bass and going to redo it.
It's solid black; and I've rough sanded it already down to raw wood. Tomorrow i'm going to light sand it and i'm washing it down to bring out the grain.
I have ALWAYS loved natural bodies and maple neck/boards.
I'd like to get a similar finish to Tal Wilkenfeld's Sadowsky.
What do you all recommend for a bass finish? I know what her finish is... but I'm looking for an oil finish. Problem is a lot of the Tung oil and Tru-Oil that I've seen really tints the wood a lot. And hers is Almost 100% natural.
So in short I'm looking for an oil finish that adds gloss, brings out the grain. Thanks guys.

All of the oil finishes darken the wood. You can't avoid it. Some tint it less than others. Minwax Tung Oil is an oil/varnish mixture that doesn't tint it as dark as some, but it'll still darken. Using 1 0r 2 coats will give less darkening, but also less protection and gloss.

If you want to replicate a finish exactly, use the same finish.

You might get a kittle closer by first sealing the wood with a shellac and then a couple thin coats of a spray on lacquer in aerosol cans, like Krylon acrylic lacquer. The wax free shellac I use is Zinnsers Seal Coat, available in quart cans. These products are easy to use at home, although for safety reasons you must provide plenty of ventilation when spraying the lacquer. Outdoors is best. One coat of clear white shellac tints very minimally. The Krylon lacquer dries water clear.

[Dirk Diggler]

My vote would be for a good quality Danish Oil. I really like using Tried and True brand. A little goes a long way. To me it's one of the most natural look you can get.

I had thought that Tal's bass was a poly finish though isn't it?
Dirk

[Sippy]

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

My vote would be for a good quality Danish Oil. I really like using Tried and True brand. A little goes a long way. To me it's one of the most natural look you can get.

I had thought that Tal's bass was a poly finish though isn't it?
Dirk

Yep, it's a poly finish. Unfortunately I don't have access to any painting supplies. And as far as I know the poly finishes that would be needed would require an airbrush.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by Sippy

Yep, it's a poly finish. Unfortunately I don't have access to any painting supplies. And as far as I know the poly finishes that would be needed would require an airbrush.

Yes, they would if you want the stuff the factories use which is very tough when hardened. The stuff sold in cans as polyurethane varnish for brushing or wiping on are easy enough, but because of their oil component will darken too.

There are brush on water based finishes available that you might be able to get a good result with. Look in Lowes or Home Depot. They don't darken the wood much. Sort of the look you get when you wipe a piece of wood down with water. The last one I used of that type was Varathane water based polyurethane varnish. It dried quickly and I got a decent finish, but I applied it with a brush and put on 4 coats. I haven't tried wiping it on with a cloth like an oil finish. I don't think that method would be successful.

Tried and True is a nice oil finish. It will darken the wood considerably. It's easy enough to apply. The more coats you apply the darker it gets.

You should practice with whatever type finish you decide on, using some scrap wood. You learn a lot and it can prevent serious mistakes when you do it to your bass.

[Sippy]

awesome thanks for the informtion! ... but here's a dumb question.. a brush on finish.. how would I get rid of brush strokes?

[John Wentzien]

Her's one I just finished with Forby's satin tung oil.
About 4 coats.
I put it on the back of the neck too..feels nice and silky!Attachment 128108

[Sippy]

wow that's gorgeous!

[62bass]

Originally Posted by Sippy

awesome thanks for the informtion! ... but here's a dumb question.. a brush on finish.. how would I get rid of brush strokes?

Use a high quality brush for starters. Thin the finish to just the right consistency so it will flow out and level itself before starting to skin over, yet be thick enough to hold together. In the end though, if you want a perfect gloss finish you have to sand and level it out and polish it to a high sheen.

This all takes a bit of practice and in your case has to be done by hand. You don't have the buffing machines the factories have.

But, you've got lots of time on your hands now so you can do a lot of practice before you get it right.

Try to pick up a copy of the book "Hand Applied Finishes" by Jeff Jewitt. It's available from Taunton Press and you may find a copy in a library. Invaluable resource.

[John Wentzien]

What's really nice about tung-oil...you just wipe it on with a lint-free cloth.
No brush marks.
It soaks in, and you just keep applying coats until it doesn't absorb any more oil.
Kind of finishes the wood from the "inside out"
The Formby's stuff dries very hard and isn't stickey at all.
(edit)--You can get "High-Gloss" also.

[Son of Magni]

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

My vote would be for a good quality Danish Oil. I really like using Tried and True brand. A little goes a long way. To me it's one of the most natural look you can get.

I had thought that Tal's bass was a poly finish though isn't it?
Dirk

I agree that Danish Oil fits your application very well. It's like a thinner version of Tru-Oil and without the amber tint.