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  #1  
Old 03-30-2002, 02:29 PM
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Open-pores woods as fretless fingerboard

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What about using,instead the classic ebony or rosewood,something in the wenge-padouk-bubinga range as fingerboard on fretless basses?
I mean ,eventually,on budget repairs,wich means the instrument itself is not that worthy of investing,or the owner cannot afford ebony!
And,what about the open pores on wenge-padouk,wich come out on a sanded surface?
What's the sealing method?
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  #2  
Old 03-31-2002, 08:59 AM
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I remember talking to Sheldon Dingwall about using wenge as a fretless fingerboard once. I believe for reasons of durability, he coated the fingerboard with epoxy.

It's unclear to me whether the open pores would create issues other than durability-related ones. At any rate, coating with epoxy is going to add at least a couple of hours to the preparation of the fingerboard. This labor cost will quickly cancel out the savings in wood costs, so using an alternative open-pored wood is probably best done for another reason: either looks or tone.
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:37 PM
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I agree. I do use Bubinga for fingerboards and it is one of my fav's . It makes a great fretless board and holds up well. The tone is very defined but warm around the edges. Bloodwood is my favorite for fretless. You might check on it ,it is cheaper than ebony and is also harder.
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Old 06-07-2004, 04:57 PM
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UI use both Bubinga and Wenge. Bubinga does hold up better. I fill the open pores with CA glue.......t
  #5  
Old 06-07-2004, 07:22 PM
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I've never done any of this but I would imagine that a natural finish without proper pore filling would invite every manner of finger gunk, ground up wood, sweat, boogers, whatever to build up and you'd NEVER get it completely cleaned.

IMO best to do it up front and not take any chances.
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2004, 03:18 PM
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You might also consider a open pore or soft wood that has been stabilized from Gallery Hardwoods (www.galleryhardwoods.com).

Of course, the stabilization process fills the pores, and also costs a little bit more.... but Gallery can do it to very soft woods including black limba and even spalted maple if you want a very distinctive and unique looking fingerboard. I'm currently building a 5 string with a stabilized birdseye maple fingerboard from Gallery, and have two other stabilized leopard wood fingerboards waiting for basses as well.

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