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06-19-2004, 09:43 PM
|  | Jazz Chicken | | Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ennui, IN USA | | | Osage Orange
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Has anyone used Osage Orange for a fretboard?
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Sunn Owner's Club Member #7, Medio Bassist Club member #151, Bassists with Beards Club #74, Member of the Silly Party, SP5 Club #6, Ind. Basser's Club Member #Xz39 | 
06-21-2004, 04:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Springfield, mo | | | im sure it can be done but the stuff tends to crack when it hardens and is hard as teak wood. Ive seen old stumps and such and the stuff turns real dark when it ages. People used them for fence posts and bows. Guess you'd have to find an aged piece cause i wouldn't recommend using a green one. | 
06-21-2004, 02:41 PM
| | TalkBass Pro Owner: FBB Bass Works | | Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Maryland | | | The stuff is hard to find clear in sizes even big enough for a fingerboard. You'll probably want quartersawn if you can get it. I've never seen a piece around here (not native to new england) that I found suitable, though I have tried. | 
06-21-2004, 02:44 PM
| | | | I'm having an electric cello made from it. the blank is crystal clear. | 
06-21-2004, 03:47 PM
|  | Jazz Chicken | | Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ennui, IN USA | | I've got this Wishy which has Osage Orange fretboard. Feels rough and I wonder should it be finished. 
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Sunn Owner's Club Member #7, Medio Bassist Club member #151, Bassists with Beards Club #74, Member of the Silly Party, SP5 Club #6, Ind. Basser's Club Member #Xz39 | 
06-21-2004, 03:58 PM
| | | | sand it first with 80 grit, then 100 grit, then 150, then 220, then 320, then 400, then 600, then 800. by then it will be as smooth as glass.
iif you want, after the 320 phase, lightly, very lightly dampen the fb and then use a propane torch to dry the board. this will be dry the board and raise the grain- sand again with 320 and this will help seal it. | 
06-21-2004, 06:00 PM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | you could also smooth it over with some slow drying CA glue. Then do the finish sanding. An unusual Wish bass shape by the way.......t | 
06-21-2004, 06:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: self banned from talkbass.... | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by DonZ sand it first with 80 grit, then 100 grit, then 150, then 220, then 320, then 400, then 600, then 800. by then it will be as smooth as glass.
iif you want, after the 320 phase, lightly, very lightly dampen the fb and then use a propane torch to dry the board. this will be dry the board and raise the grain- sand again with 320 and this will help seal it. | I do this, but I start at 220. | 
06-21-2004, 07:21 PM
|  | Jazz Chicken | | Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ennui, IN USA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by DonZ sand it first with 80 grit, then 100 grit, then 150, then 220, then 320, then 400, then 600, then 800. by then it will be as smooth as glass.
iif you want, after the 320 phase, lightly, very lightly dampen the fb and then use a propane torch to dry the board. this will be dry the board and raise the grain- sand again with 320 and this will help seal it. | This sounds like the plan, thanks. The whole bass need to be sanded and refinished. I'll do this if I decide to keep it. I've got more pic of it on the TB gallery if anyone want to look and thanks for the tips.
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06-21-2004, 08:44 PM
| | | | Do it to the whole bass... you will not be dissapointed.. Just BE CAREFUL with the torch or you can scortch the material. | 
06-22-2004, 06:24 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Atlanta/Loganville | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by DonZ Do it to the whole bass... you will not be dissapointed.. Just BE CAREFUL with the torch or you can scortch the material. | My recommendation would be to NOT use the open flame of a torch but use a heat gun. They can generate 1200 degree's and that should be enough.  | 
06-22-2004, 06:51 AM
| | | | I have used a torch for 20 years with total success. To each his own... | 
06-22-2004, 08:02 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Atlanta/Loganville | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by DonZ I have used a torch for 20 years with total success. To each his own... | Then perhaps a further explanation of the technique and a more detailed warning is warranted. 20 years of experience in anything will give results NO rookie would ever achieve.
I always keep these things in mind when I suggest difficult, detailed, or unreversable processes here on these boards. There are many newbies here that take what we have to offer with complete trust. That's good in some cases but in others, a little knowledge is very dangerous. | 
06-22-2004, 08:08 AM
| | | | good point Alan. i hear ya on that.
Here is the technique that I use. I first lightly- very lightly dampen the material. This helps raise the grain and fibers that are still loose. Then I use the torch to dry the wood -never letting the flame touch the wood. Then sand again and again and mirror like results can be acheived.
do not try on a nice piece of wood the first time ! and always be careful and have a fire extinguisher in your shop. | 
06-22-2004, 10:22 AM
|  | Jazz Chicken | | Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ennui, IN USA | | | Ok, I'm sufficiently paranoid! I think I'll hire a luthier to do it...
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