polish withouth transparent laquer

[sansa]

Hi everyone! I've just finished my guitar with lucid acrylic water based paint. It gives a satisfing effect so I don't understand the need of spraying another layer of transparent paint...

Now I have to polish it... Can I use the polish compound on the lucid paint or I have to spray another layer of transparent to reach the MIRROR EFFECT?

Thank you!

[Hopkins]

Any information on the product? I've never used it.

[sansa]

Originally Posted by Hopkins

Any information on the product? I've never used it.

what do you mean? the paint is lucid white, a dupli-color can, here a photo: http://chitarra.accordo.it/article.do?id=29315
(same thing about the transparent gloss)
the polish is a menzerna PF2500
here a photo: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...rna-rd302.html

Thank you

[Hopkins]

I dont know how hard a waterbased enamel out of a spray bomb will get. I also dont know how the clear you are planning to use will react with the base boat. You should probably do some experimenting before proceding.

[sansa]

Originally Posted by Hopkins

I dont know how hard a waterbased enamel out of a spray bomb will get. I also dont know how the clear you are planning to use will react with the base boat. You should probably do some experimenting before proceding.

the colored and the transparent enamels are from the same selection by duplicolor. Someone told if it is so they have the same gloss %

[wcoffey81]

i would apply as many coats of the clear as they suggest. then if you can keep spraying it with decent results i would spray on one or two extra coats. give it plenty of flash time between coats, don't rush it now! let it hang someplace WARM, with plenty of fresh air, for a few days before sanding.
this will give you enough clear to wet sand and polish. wet sand the finish with at least P1000, P1200 or P1500 will be easier to polish, using a block like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Wet-dry-...item41712e2626

or like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-San...item5653d26208

when sanding use as little water as possible with a drop or two of dish washing soap in it. the idea is to just level things off, removing any bumps, before buffing/polishing. if you skip this step and go straight to polishing you just end up with shiny bumps.

the one site you linked to has Meguiar's and they sell what you need to do the sanding as well as the polishing

[Hopkins]

you may try spraying a test piece and let it dry. Then try to wet sand and polish it. I dont know if that water based paint is hard enough to buff to a high gloss shine.

[sansa]

Originally Posted by Hopkins

you may try spraying a test piece and let it dry. Then try to wet sand and polish it. I dont know if that water based paint is hard enough to buff to a high gloss shine.

oh yes you can buff acrylic paint. Many cars are done with acrylics!

[sansa]

Originally Posted by wcoffey81

i would apply as many coats of the clear as they suggest. then if you can keep spraying it with decent results i would spray on one or two extra coats. give it plenty of flash time between coats, don't rush it now! let it hang someplace WARM, with plenty of fresh air, for a few days before sanding.
this will give you enough clear to wet sand and polish. wet sand the finish with at least P1000, P1200 or P1500 will be easier to polish, using a block like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Wet-dry-...item41712e2626

or like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-San...item5653d26208

when sanding use as little water as possible with a drop or two of dish washing soap in it. the idea is to just level things off, removing any bumps, before buffing/polishing. if you skip this step and go straight to polishing you just end up with shiny bumps.

Nothing is suggested by dupli color. just to wait 2 minutes between each spray shot and 48 hours between each coat (wrong for me, I wait at least 3 or 4 days because on the second day is still sticky).
What do you think about gloss? Someone told me the lucid color (pure white in my case) has got the same % gloss as the transparent so it is just a waste of time and the finish get just thicker and not more shining!
I'm aware of the all passages with the sand paper and soap and polish anyway thank you

[wcoffey81]

you want a little of that "sticky" to be there. that's what allows one coat to bond with next. if they say 48 hours try to stay close to that. the only thing i might change about the 48h rule is with the extra coats of clear. i would probably give it a little more time to "breath" between coats but i probably wouldn't go over 72 hours.
the gloss % thing has been debated over and over ever since we started to use clearcoat. over white, or other very light colors the difference gets very hard to see with the naked eye.
to some, clearing over a solid base is a waste. i feel that it gives your finish a depth that is very hard to achieve with just a solid color. today almost all automotive finishes are base coat/clear coat for a reason. there are a very few single stage finishes used and they are usually applied to commercial vehicles.

[sansa]

Originally Posted by wcoffey81

you want a little of that "sticky" to be there. that's what allows one coat to bond with next. if they say 48 hours try to stay close to that. the only thing i might change about the 48h rule is with the extra coats of clear. i would probably give it a little more time to "breath" between coats but i probably wouldn't go over 72 hours.
the gloss % thing has been debated over and over ever since we started to use clearcoat. over white, or other very light colors the difference gets very hard to see with the naked eye.
to some, clearing over a solid base is a waste. i feel that it gives your finish a depth that is very hard to achieve with just a solid color. today almost all automotive finishes are base coat/clear coat for a reason. there are a very few single stage finishes used and they are usually applied to commercial vehicles.

Well I think I'll go with the TRU OIL at this point... I waited for 4 days to dissolve the sticky effect... Now it is about completely dry... It's too late if what you said is right.
So now I guess I'm going to finish the whole thing with a couple of coat of tru oil.... It's cheaper, quicker, faster...

Do you think I have to polish the solid color and then use the tru oil and polish another time or just polish in the final phase the tru oil??? THANK YOU VERY MUCH wcoffey81

[Geoff St. Germaine]

Anything anyone is going to suggest is probably going to be speculation. Anytime you apply a finish it should be tested on scrap of the same material you are going to use to verify your procedure will work and that different compounds, if used, are compatible.

[sansa]

Originally Posted by Geoff St. Germaine

Anything anyone is going to suggest is probably going to be speculation. Anytime you apply a finish it should be tested on scrap of the same material you are going to use to verify your procedure will work and that different compounds, if used, are compatible.

I agree with you. But the point is that acrylic dries in 3 or 4 days... So a test is not so easy to do if you haven't so much time... anyway thank you!