Practice build: 5-string multi-scale, HD woods

[octaedro7]

If it´s for aesthetics, manual sanding can sometimes lack of consistency. I would also stick with fixing the template (or make a new one) and using a router bit.

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Originally Posted by octaedro7

If it´s for aesthetics, manual sanding can sometimes lack of consistency. I would also stick with fixing the template (or make a new one) and using a router bit.

+1

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by octaedro7

If it´s for aesthetics, manual sanding can sometimes lack of consistency. I would also stick with fixing the template (or make a new one) and using a router bit.

My reasoning exactly. I know I could do a decent job working slowly with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel (I wouldn't put a Dremel drum sander anywhere near it), the [right way[/i]to do it is do fix the template and re-rout. As long as it's lined up properly, it'll look good.

[Keith Guitars]

My trick for dealing with this, especially on instruments that have already been finished, is to use a chisel to square out the corners of the route below the surface only - angle the chisel so you are cutting away the corner radius for the lowest 3/4 or so of the route.

Then, sandpaper wrapped on a dowel can easily and accurately shape the small thickness of remaining surface wood. If you're OCD like me, compensate your dowel diameter for the thickness of the sandpaper.

This makes it faster, easier, and more predictable, since it's easier to sand "in column" (meaning perfectly vertically) when you've got airspace beyond the area to be sanded. Profile sanding into a blind corner is darn near impossible.

Cheers,
Martin

[Yvarg]

If it were me, I'd probably throw an 1/8" downward spiral bit in my dremel and use a router base attachment to ever-so-carefully expand the corners of each route. With a steady hand it would be very possible to make it look like it was original. Fixing the template would probably be the technically correct way to go about things, but I would not trust myself to line it up correctly again. You know yourself and limitations best though, so go by what feels right to you.

On a side note, this build has no relation to this drink, does it?

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by Keith Guitars

My trick for dealing with this, especially on instruments that have already been finished, is to use a chisel to square out the corners of the route below the surface only - angle the chisel so you are cutting away the corner radius for the lowest 3/4 or so of the route.

Then, sandpaper wrapped on a dowel can easily and accurately shape the small thickness of remaining surface wood. If you're OCD like me, compensate your dowel diameter for the thickness of the sandpaper.

This makes it faster, easier, and more predictable, since it's easier to sand "in column" (meaning perfectly vertically) when you've got airspace beyond the area to be sanded. Profile sanding into a blind corner is darn near impossible.

Cheers,
Martin

Very cool tip, Martin, thanks. I may have to do this... see post to follow.

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by Yvarg

If it were me, I'd probably throw an 1/8" downward spiral bit in my dremel and use a router base attachment to ever-so-carefully expand the corners of each route. With a steady hand it would be very possible to make it look like it was original. Fixing the template would probably be the technically correct way to go about things, but I would not trust myself to line it up correctly again. You know yourself and limitations best though, so go by what feels right to you.

On a side note, this build has no relation to this drink, does it?

I'm not big on Dremels, so i don't think I'll take that route. I managed to line up four separate pieces tonight (see next post), so matching up doesn't bother me. The trick is to use a separate block pressed up against the original route, and drop the template slowly, not pressing too much on the adhesive, and with a release sheet covering half or more of the adhesive surface until you line things up by feel (more sensitive than by eye) and pull out the slipsheet.



The bass is named for the mountain, not the beer, although that beer did make an appearance here two or twenty pages back. Glad to see you can get some beers out there on the west coast that aren't hopped up until they're in that mega-IBUs pissing contest!

[pilotjones]

Started adding routing fence walls


Ready


Set


Go!



Now, I did a real quick try of the altered template over a pickup (still in the bass), and it seemed like the corners may now be too sharp. But the ideal bit may not exist, so I may either use this, or use Martin's method. I'll have another look at it in the next few days.

[wiscrna]

Originally Posted by TannerManner

I salute you, good sir, for one of the best documented and intriguing builds I have seen! I'm working on the design for my first bass, and I'm finding myself using yours as a reference more than anything else on this forum. Excellent work.
P.S. Any Wisconsinites here that can vouch for a New Glarus brew? I haven't had it myself (I'm not 21 yet) but I know a lot of people that won't drink anything else. Unfortunately for the rest of you, it's illegal to sell outside of Wisconsin, so you'll have to come here to try it

New Glarus Spotted Cow is a great full-bodied brew, without being bitter or overwhelming. One of my favorites.

[pilotjones]

Tonight I took a few minutes and used the revised template to square up the pickup routs.

I had found that the routs somehow were shorter in length than the template, which was actually good since I was finding the fit of the outs tighter on the ends of the pup than on the sides. So, I mounted the template and deepened the corners, while extending the end length a bit in whichever direction was better for that particular rout.

Here's the end result. I routed only partway down, so I can finish up with chisels as necessary to really center the pickups.





This is very nice, only a hint of the coriander - orange peel thing. And as luck would have it, my first brew from Wisconsin.

[pilotjones]

I tried the pickups in the revised routs. The shape is good. I will probably use a shim or two in the end, to dead-center the pups in the openings. Actually, now that I think of it, the shim material would be glued to the rout wall and be permanent. Cool.

In future I'll revise my technique a bit in gluing in the nuts, which will hopefully obviate the need to do this.


----------------------------------------


I did some more shaping of the bridge saddles. They're more fluid now.


----------------------------------------


Next, I have started to lay out the bridge and saddle area.

I printed out a full string layout through the bridge region, cut windows in it to line it up, affixed it to the bass,


and used a sharp point to mark the string centerlines.

(The inaccuracy from having the paper drop from fretboard level to body level calculates to .005", in the longitudinal direction. NBD.)

Here's a preview of the bridge plan. If I don't change it, which I've already done once during the course of the night.



----------------------------------------


Tonight's reward was just fantastic.

This is ridiculously rich, and strong (11.7 ABV). If you've ever had Old Rasputin, this is very similar. It pours thick, fragrant as hell, with an almost impossibly dark head that then gets consumed by the alcohol content. There's so much flavor it's hard for me to describe.

The kicker is that this was a year-old bottle. I knew my second bottle was a year different - but it turned out to be a year older, already two years old! It is going to be very difficult to let that age any more without drinking it, despite the fact that the label says it will improve over the course of five years.

[Ruckus_Instrmts]

Cellar It! You won't regret it. I'm still holding on to a 2007 Rogue XS Imperial stout.

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by Ruckus_Instrmts

Cellar It! You won't regret it. I'm still holding on to a 2007 Rogue XS Imperial stout.

How do you manage to cellar it without it getting too warm? I'm concerned about it here in NY, and I thought everything in FLA was built on a slab with no basement.

[whodom]

Originally Posted by pilotjones

How do you manage to cellar it without it getting too warm? I'm concerned about it here in NY, and I thought everything in FLA was built on a slab with no basement.

My guess would be that cellaring it means it's submerged in brackish water which should keep it reasonably cool.

[miziomix]

This has become an amazing thread and very cool build. PJ, don't you dare finish this before 2013, OK?

[Ruckus_Instrmts]

Originally Posted by pilotjones

How do you manage to cellar it without it getting too warm? I'm concerned about it here in NY, and I thought everything in FLA was built on a slab with no basement.

A dedicated beer fridge in the garage set to maintain between 55-60 degrees F. I really only cellar three types; Belgian Strong Ales, Barleywines and Imperial Stouts. Which reminds me I need to make room for whatever makes it home from Hunahpu's day!

[xepher2792]

Originally Posted by miziomix

This has become an amazing thread and very cool build. PJ, don't you dare finish this before 2013, OK?

I disagree please finish it.

And than start another one...

[mikebpeters]

I'll second the - please finish this one, and then start a new one.

If this was with 'practice' wood, I can hardly wait to see what a good wood project will look like!

[pilotjones]

Re beer fridge: brilliant idea!

Re beer: I've got an "imperial pilsener" in the fridge now. Don't know what the h--- that is, but I'll find out!

Re further builds: yes, must do at least one more. And must get this one done first!

[pilotjones]

To help in laying out the string anchor / bridge area, I cut a few wafers off of one of my test knobs, since it has been my intention to make the anchors the same diameter as the knobs. I dyed the wafers with my padauk stain to help with the visuals.

What I found is that I could lay them out in a straight line, but could not do the curve I wanted, as partially shown above, because they would come too close to touching at the B and E strings.

After searching the web and inquiring directly to CMT Tools, I found that there are no tenon cutters available in 11/16", slightly smaller than my 3/4" knobs. So I tried a test piece with the next smaller cutter, 5/8". It still looked OK next to the saddles, so I started making 5/8" anchor posts.

Here's the clamping and drilling setup, in case anyone's interested.


And the resulting pieces.



Here is the setup I used to drill the string holes. I made a looooong 90˚ v-block on the table saw. I used one piece of the scrap as a fixed end stop, and another piece to slide in place to clamp the workpiece.


There is one smaller hole through for the string, and one larger hole inline, halfway through as a counterbore to hold the ball end. Even with a very exacting setup and firm clamping, I found that drilling the larger hole resulted in the bit skewing off center. If anyone has a tip to get around this, please share it! I am using a brad point bit, which I was hoping would be enough to prevent this, even with the convex surface presentation. I know I can try running the brad point down, them estimate filing an appropriately sized flat, and that may work. But if the flat is too large, the post is screwed up because the subsequent drilling won't remove it; if it's too small, especially to one side, it will actually make matters worse.

If there's a better method, I'll re-do the posts.


Here are the smaller posts laid in rough positions.


I need to have the final positions before I can finish figuring the saddle rails.

Hopefully more progress tonight.