Practice build: 5-string multi-scale, HD woods

[HaMMerHeD]

Originally Posted by pilotjones

I thought about that. What would be the benefits? If it's just to allow easy navigation to the pics, I could also edit post #1 to include a link to the first post with the final pics. Thoughts?

Well, with the way it's going, I think you'll have a "Practice build: 5-string multi-scale, HD woods, Part II - Practice Makes Perfect" thread anyway.

Not that I'm complaining. This thread has kept me entertained for a good while.

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by HaMMerHeD

Well, with the way it's going, I think you'll have a "Practice build: 5-string multi-scale, HD woods, Part II - Practice Makes Perfect" thread anyway.

Not that I'm complaining. This thread has kept me entertained for a good while.

I like that subtitle that you added.

[pilotjones]

No work on the bass this weekend, as I was out of town. But I stopped at Woodcraft, and something followed me home! Heavy, but still a bit of a contortionist.

[Smilodon]

Fantastic work! I really wish I had the same level of skill and patience as you do.



A small suggestion for you drilling jig:

You could drill out the guiding holes a bit bigger and knock in some ball bearings in the hole. The bearing must fit snugly to the drill bits you are using, so you may have to push in two bearings. One bigger one first, and then a smaller one on top. The smaller bearing must be pushed out of the jig again to drill the bigger hole on the next piece and so on.

Shops that sell radio controlled cars should have a variety of small bearings that should fit.


The more straigh forward method would be to find some countersink bits to drill both holes at the same time. Preferably something like this. That way the smaller part of the bit will keep the larger portion centered.

You won't be able to dill completely with this, but at leas you could make guide holes that are big enough.

If you can't fine any of those bits you could drill the smallest hole first, and then use a normal counter sink bit to widen the hole to guide the larger drill bit. The critical part is finding a counter sink bit that have as many cutting faces as possible. The ones with 5 cutting faces tend to be very stable. If you are lucky you can find a counter sink bit that is small enough to drill almost to full depth.



Hmm... Did that even make sense?

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by Smilodon

Fantastic work! I really wish I had the same level of skill and patience as you do.

A small suggestion for you drilling jig:

You could drill out the guiding holes a bit bigger and knock in some ball bearings in the hole. The bearing must fit snugly to the drill bits you are using, so you may have to push in two bearings. One bigger one first, and then a smaller one on top. The smaller bearing must be pushed out of the jig again to drill the bigger hole on the next piece and so on.

Shops that sell radio controlled cars should have a variety of small bearings that should fit.

The more straigh forward method would be to find some countersink bits to drill both holes at the same time. Preferably something like this. That way the smaller part of the bit will keep the larger portion centered.

You won't be able to dill completely with this, but at leas you could make guide holes that are big enough.

If you can't fine any of those bits you could drill the smallest hole first, and then use a normal counter sink bit to widen the hole to guide the larger drill bit. The critical part is finding a counter sink bit that have as many cutting faces as possible. The ones with 5 cutting faces tend to be very stable. If you are lucky you can find a counter sink bit that is small enough to drill almost to full depth.

Hmm... Did that even make sense?

thanks for the comment, and suggestions.

The bits make perfect sense to me. I think as far as the ball bearings, you're talking about using ball-element antifriction bearings as drill guides, as one would normally use a drill bushing.

I had forgotten about countersink bits. Now looking it up, there's none in an appropriate size. But a counterbore bit for a #8 SHCS would be near perfect.


I've already got a few bits on the way. Combined with a new jig, and the new tool, hopefully I'll get some proper holes. If not, I'll try a counterbore bit.

[pilotjones]

Bought a drill press, so I could do some proper boring. Make an accurate jig, and get these string anchors done.

Spent a day and a half making a mounting to attach it to the Shopsmith frame, since it's a bench model and I have little floor space.

Mounted it, turned it on.

The main shaft is bent or otherwise broken. Even after removing the taper shaft that holds the chuck, the spindle that's part of the machine is eccentric.


Seriously bummed.

[whodom]

Ouch- sorry to hear about your bad luck.

A product of Harbor Freight or some place similar?

[Triad]

Sorry for the trouble... anyway I really like the bridge solution!

[pilotjones]

Triad
Thanks, I hope the bridge design works out. We'll know once I can fab the darned thing.

whodom
No, got it from Woodcraft. It was a floor model with a damaged power switch box, which I knew I could fix. But it meant I couldn't power it up before buying.

I called Woodcraft, who referred me to Rikon, who have promised me a callback tomorrow from their tech to determine which parts to replace.

[pilotjones]

I talked to Rikon, and they sent me a new spindle assembly.

Installed it, and it runs fairly smoothly. As good as I'd expect from a china product.

Here is is, installed on the shopsmith frame.

Kind of like the Alien version of a drill press, with that head projecting backwards.

The upper beam cranks in and out, and can swivel about the post, which enables clamping the workpiece once, and moving the drill to the hole positions.

It can also tilt. So while maybe she can't do the mashed potato, she can do the twist.



I then installed and aligned the laser that they threw in since it was an as-is floor model. It is meant to be mounted on the main post, but that only works for a conventional drill press. Since the spindle can move around, luckily I was able to mount it to the spindle.


I also bought a centering tool, for precise center finding. Put it up in the chuck, and there is no doubt where you are about to drill.



Next up is to mount the old table extension to the new table, level it, and get back to work on the bass!

[pilotjones]

Question: Steaming out a dent

Would people please confirm whether this is the right method, or what variation they would suggest:

1. Wet the dented wood. Allow to soak in.
2. Put a doubled wet paper towel on the area.
3. Press a hot soldering iron up against the dent. Be careful to lift the iron when the paper towel is dry.

What do you all think and know?

[jmorbita]

Originally Posted by pilotjones

Question: Steaming out a dent

Would people please confirm whether this is the right method, or what variation they would suggest:

1. Wet the dented wood. Allow to soak in.
2. Put a doubled wet paper towel on the area.
3. Press a hot soldering iron up against the dent. Be careful to lift the iron when the paper towel is dry.

What do you all think and know?

I don't know much, but they way I was told to do it, I did not soak the wood previously, just put an actual wet towel (cotton, not paper) over the wood. Doesn't need to be soaking wet, just a bit of an area covering the dent.
I was also told to do it with a hot spoon (heat the spoon in the kitchen and don't hold it with bare hands!)
I suppose the hot spoon helps with smaller dents, so you're applying the heat in the exact dent and not all over the place. This worked for me... but others more experienced might have something else to add.

[Freestyler]

For dent wood, I saw this video from a woodworker on youtube : Building An Entertainment Center for Flat Screen TV: A Furniture Project from AskWoodMan
It's a little long, but all his videos are long if not longer ; and that's what I like because he really goes into all the details of his work.
I didn't try it but it look like a variant of the technique you described.

[bassman314]

This is probably the most detailed build I have ever seen!

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Originally Posted by pilotjones

Question: Steaming out a dent

Would people please confirm whether this is the right method, or what variation they would suggest:

1. Wet the dented wood. Allow to soak in.
2. Put a doubled wet paper towel on the area.
3. Press a hot soldering iron up against the dent. Be careful to lift the iron when the paper towel is dry.

What do you all think and know?

I just use a clothes iron. The tip lets you heat in a small area. And like mentioned above, dont wet the wood itself. Wet a towel (not a bath towel, more like a cotton T-shirt), or paper towel and shock the dent by putting the towel on it and the iron immediately behind it. The water will burst into steam thereby shooting the steam-not the water-into the wood. Done it many times, works like a charm!

[MrArose13]

Originally Posted by pilotjones

Question: Steaming out a dent

Would people please confirm whether this is the right method, or what variation they would suggest:

1. Wet the dented wood. Allow to soak in.
2. Put a doubled wet paper towel on the area.
3. Press a hot soldering iron up against the dent. Be careful to lift the iron when the paper towel is dry.

What do you all think and know?

No need for step 1. and it only takes a cople sec. your paper towel (or what ever you use) shouldn't get dry, if it dose you may burn the wood. You can also use a clothes iron, or my favorit, a veneer iron.

[pilotjones]

Ok. Thanks for the info on the dent steaming. I'll post when I do it.


Meanwhile, new build post incoming in a few.

[pilotjones]

Yesterday, made the drill jig. It currently resides in the middle of a 3-foot piece of oak; I'll cut it out of that when I need it for something else. It consists of four holes drilled into the square stick. (BTW thanks to all for the suggestions on this.)





Today, drilled the parts. Steps:


Drop a washer into the knob bore. The washer is controlling the depth of insertion. I originally made it a bit too deep, so I made it a little deeper to use the washer.

(Note to self every time: do not forget the washer!)

Insert the knob with the grain aligned for drilling.
Set the depth of the large drill.

The knob bore is a bit tighter at the bottom than the top, and they press fit in nicely so no clamping is needed.

Drill the string ball counterbore.

By the way, is that an incredible brad point drill bit, or what! Double lands for centering and support against the walls, and they even get progressively wider towards the top. I'm in love.

Flip over, drill the smaller string hole clear through.


Use dowel through the backside hole to pop out the knob.


Insert brass washer.

These washers will be glued in place in the end.

Insert string to check depth of the large c'bore.


Not shown: if string ball stands proud, remove string and washer and deepen hole by turning the drill in the bore by hand, and re-check. The five anchors should show a consistent line of ball end exposure when the instrument is strung up.



Yesterday's "nice simple jig" reward was a unique one.

What the heck is an imperial pilsener? In this case, it's like a pilsener, with a touch of caramel and some sweetness, 9 ABV, and nearly flat. Not recommended. This has some sugar, and plenty of yeast in the bottom of the bottle, and was already 21 months old; but the yeast must have been dead, judging by the sweetness and the lack of carbonation.

[whodom]

Nice work! Sorry about the lousy beer.

[roberthabraken]

Very, very nice work! I'm glad you got that sorted out . And the result is just great!

Thanks for sharing,