Removing antique finish

lsp · #1 12-20-2008, 07:09 AM

I like the woodgrain finish on my bass, but don't like the "antique" finish at all. I need to know how to remove just the antique finish around the edges (see attached picture). Do i need to strip or sand the whole body/headstock?, or can get away with only sanding off the antique sections on the edges? - And then what do I put back on for protection?

Thanks

vbasscustom · #2 12-21-2008, 01:09 PM

well to get it all even you should really do the whole body

stflbn · #3 12-21-2008, 01:14 PM

I love that finish.

62bass · #4 12-21-2008, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsp

I like the woodgrain finish on my bass, but don't like the "antique" finish at all. I need to know how to remove just the antique finish around the edges (see attached picture). Do i need to strip or sand the whole body/headstock?, or can get away with only sanding off the antique sections on the edges? - And then what do I put back on for protection?

Thanks

I doubt you'll be able to get only the dark stuff off. I'd do the whole body and do it right if you're going to do it at all. It's a lot of work, your bass will be out of commission for at least 3 weeks and you'll have to do some study before you attempt it if you want anything better than a mediocre job.

daveman50 · #5 12-21-2008, 05:25 PM

(1) The bass looks real good as is, IMO.

(2) You can't refinish the edges only.

lsp · #6 12-24-2008, 02:02 PM

OK, I'll sand the whole body then. The body is made of maple, still need to know what to put back on it that will protect, but leave a flat finish?, I don't like gloss at all - I want something that is no to low maintenence and will last.

Thanks

Al Heeley · #7 12-24-2008, 05:58 PM

Once its all sanded back you can rub in a few coats of Danish oil, that will seal the wood and give a flat finish. Buff it up with fine wire wool when fully cured.

62bass · #8 12-25-2008, 07:28 AM

There are various oil/varnish blends that you can use. Most like using Minwax Tung Oil. Some like the Watco Danish Oil and there are a number of others out there that can be used. One I like in particular for its flat finish and ability to accent the grain is Minwax Antique Oil. I sand and then apply the oil and keep it wet with fresh oil for about 20 minutes. Then wipe off all the excess and let dry. The Antique Oil doesn't build on top of the surface like other blends do so it's much flatter looking. I apply a second coat when the first is dry just to even everything out. The second coat does not have to be left on for long. Just a couple minutes then wipe dry. Use cotton cloths and dispose of them by first soaking in water. They are a fire hazard.

Bear in mind that these oil finishes offer only minimal protection to the wood compared to what you have on there now. They aren't very waterproof, offer almost no protection from dents and scratches and after a year or so can start to look dull and lifeless from oxidation. At that point you re-oil them. If you wax them regularly they look fresh for longer.