Quote:
Originally Posted by bassgiant15  thank you very much for the reply!!! 
i do know that it has a tung oil finish on it.
So basically, i need to get some 80 grit sandpaper and get all of the stain off before i re-stain it.
Just for grins...if i wanted to stain it a dark black would i still need to get absolutely all of the greenish stain off of it as well? Would the black cover up the greenish stain if i didn't get all of it off?
I guess i am just wanting to know because i really don't want to mess anything up sanding, but i would like to do this re-staining myself.
Thanks in advance for any help, and again thanks for the reply. |
Yes, you absolutely must get down to bare wood. That tung oil will have soaked in as deep as the stain. If you leave any in the wood, the new stain won't penetrate there leaving a blotchy result.
I have on occasion used a product made for removing deeply ingrained stains and oil finishes. It's a two part system. One part has an alkaline remover to get out oil based stains and oil finishes and the second part is an acid which neutralizes it and bleaches the wood further. I doubt it will work on the stuff Carvin uses. So your best bet is to sand. Start with 80 grit sanding with the grain until you think you've got down to bare wood. Then wipe on some paint thinner and take a look. If any old finish remains it will show up while the paint thinner is wet. So sand some more. When it's down to bare wood, wipe off the dust and switch to 120 grit, then 180, then 220, always sanding with the grain. You can work up to as smooth as 320 but won't notice much of an improvement over 220.
Then you're ready to stain.
Staining is whole separate process. When you're ready for that, post again with your results and we can carry on.
I'd probably use a water based ebony coloured dye rather than a pigmented stain. It will allow some grain to show. You might need 2 or 3 applications. Then tung oil over the top for protection.
