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  #1  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:39 AM
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Semi-Gloss finish

I'm new to building and doing a lot of research as I go along with my first instrument (this forum has been a GREAT source of information), but I'm looking at putting a semi-gloss lacquer finish on.

Do I let the finish settle after spraying like you would with a satin finish, or do you buff it like a high gloss finish? Or is there a different procedure/material to buff a lacquer like this?
  #2  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:21 PM
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If i were you, I would spray the gloss clear coats, and let it cure for thirty days. Wet sand level going from 600 to 1200 grit. If the sheen is not to your liking, then rub it down with 0000 steel wool, using paste furniture wax as a lubricant. Once the sheen is accomplished, then use a wipe of naptha to remove the wax residue.
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:33 PM
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poly or nitro??? I have seen nitro , poly and pil finishes that are low and mid gloss, so no matter how much you buff polish on it, it wont shine much and still be smooth to touch
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:03 PM
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I only use Nitro for a high gloss, all other sheen combinations get Poly. If you choose to go with poly, you'll have to decide oil or water based. Water based, will keep the wood color a lot lighter than oil based poly. Oil based poly will also add a touch of amber to your wood color. If you find the right water based poly (jury is still out for me), you can find a happy medium.
Hands down, I'd rather spray water based poly. No nasty fumes and everything cleans up so easy.
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2013, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by praisegig View Post
If i were you, I would spray the gloss clear coats, and let it cure for thirty days. Wet sand level going from 600 to 1200 grit. If the sheen is not to your liking, then rub it down with 0000 steel wool, using paste furniture wax as a lubricant. Once the sheen is accomplished, then use a wipe of naptha to remove the wax residue.
+1 Agree completely. I usually use Howard Feed & Wax to lubricate Liberon brand 0000 steel wool; when I've used paste wax, I found it difficult to see the condition of the wood until I'd removed the wax. With Feed & Wax, a quick wipe with a soft cloth enables me to see the scratch pattern more easily than paste wax.

Two critical issues cannot be overlooked:

You've gotta assure you have enough film thickness to withstand the process of "rubbing out;"

You've gotta allow the finish to cure thoroughly before you rub it out, lest you cut through the finish.
  #6  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luzceloffan View Post
poly or nitro??? I have seen nitro , poly and pil finishes that are low and mid gloss, so no matter how much you buff polish on it, it wont shine much and still be smooth to touch
This was what I have planned on ordering at the moment:

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=727
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:36 AM
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Just let your hands do the polishing.
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  #8  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaoskater08 View Post
This was what I have planned on ordering at the moment:

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=727
I'm not a huge fan of pre-cat lacquers. They are designed to be sprayed as a system. One coat sealer, two top coats and thats it. If you get them to think they will get hairline cracks in them.

Nitro lacquer is much better for instrument finishing.
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopkins View Post
I'm not a huge fan of pre-cat lacquers. They are designed to be sprayed as a system. One coat sealer, two top coats and thats it. If you get them to think they will get hairline cracks in them.

Nitro lacquer is much better for instrument finishing.
Do you have any suggestions on any semi-gloss nitro lacquer I could research/purchase?
  #10  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:34 AM
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I use high gloss for everything. Like was said before, after you do your wet sanding you polish your finish to the desired sheen
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  #11  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:43 AM
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http://www.grizzly.com/products/Lacq...n-Quart/T24635

check this out. Seagraves is what I use and have been happy with it so far.
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  #12  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:14 AM
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Lots of great info in this thread! Worth making a sticky.

Lonnybass
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  #13  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:32 AM
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too many coats of semi-gloss clear can get a milky appearance so i suggest starting the clear process with high gloss and then top off with semi-gloss after you get coverage
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2013, 02:03 PM
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Great stuff here!
  #15  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcoffey81 View Post
too many coats of semi-gloss clear can get a milky appearance so i suggest starting the clear process with high gloss and then top off with semi-gloss after you get coverage
Thanks for the heads up! When I buff it will the high gloss come through?

Overall I'm looking for something between satin and high gloss....something with some sheen but not a mirror. I'm open to any other suggestions to what might get this kind of result but saw semi-gloss lacquer and wanted to see about pursuing this option.
  #16  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:29 PM
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Gloss Control

the only way the high gloss would show through is if you burn through the semi-gloss by sanding or too much polishing. high gloss clear wet sanded with 2000 - 3000 grit paper would let you polish it to what ever level you are looking for.
some furniture guys final polish with brown paper grocery bags. you may want to do some research in that area to learn a few tricks on how to control gloss.
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2013, 06:23 AM
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+ 1 on Grizzly as a source. They also sell McFadden lacquer, which is great. And pricing is good overall.
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