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03-15-2013, 09:39 AM
| | | | Semi-Gloss finish I'm new to building and doing a lot of research as I go along with my first instrument (this forum has been a GREAT source of information), but I'm looking at putting a semi-gloss lacquer finish on.
Do I let the finish settle after spraying like you would with a satin finish, or do you buff it like a high gloss finish? Or is there a different procedure/material to buff a lacquer like this? | 
03-15-2013, 09:21 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Stephenville, TX | | | If i were you, I would spray the gloss clear coats, and let it cure for thirty days. Wet sand level going from 600 to 1200 grit. If the sheen is not to your liking, then rub it down with 0000 steel wool, using paste furniture wax as a lubricant. Once the sheen is accomplished, then use a wipe of naptha to remove the wax residue.
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03-15-2013, 09:33 PM
| | | | poly or nitro??? I have seen nitro , poly and pil finishes that are low and mid gloss, so no matter how much you buff polish on it, it wont shine much and still be smooth to touch
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03-15-2013, 10:03 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Minneapolis & St.Paul, MN | | | I only use Nitro for a high gloss, all other sheen combinations get Poly. If you choose to go with poly, you'll have to decide oil or water based. Water based, will keep the wood color a lot lighter than oil based poly. Oil based poly will also add a touch of amber to your wood color. If you find the right water based poly (jury is still out for me), you can find a happy medium.
Hands down, I'd rather spray water based poly. No nasty fumes and everything cleans up so easy. | 
03-15-2013, 10:41 PM
|  | Less barking, more wagging! | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by praisegig If i were you, I would spray the gloss clear coats, and let it cure for thirty days. Wet sand level going from 600 to 1200 grit. If the sheen is not to your liking, then rub it down with 0000 steel wool, using paste furniture wax as a lubricant. Once the sheen is accomplished, then use a wipe of naptha to remove the wax residue. | +1 Agree completely. I usually use Howard Feed & Wax to lubricate Liberon brand 0000 steel wool; when I've used paste wax, I found it difficult to see the condition of the wood until I'd removed the wax. With Feed & Wax, a quick wipe with a soft cloth enables me to see the scratch pattern more easily than paste wax.
Two critical issues cannot be overlooked:
You've gotta assure you have enough film thickness to withstand the process of "rubbing out;"
You've gotta allow the finish to cure thoroughly before you rub it out, lest you cut through the finish. | 
03-25-2013, 07:02 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by luzceloffan poly or nitro??? I have seen nitro , poly and pil finishes that are low and mid gloss, so no matter how much you buff polish on it, it wont shine much and still be smooth to touch | This was what I have planned on ordering at the moment: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=727 | 
03-25-2013, 07:36 AM
| | | | Just let your hands do the polishing.
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03-25-2013, 07:53 AM
|  | Everybody Wang Chung Tonight | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Houston Tx | | Quote:
Originally Posted by kaoskater08 | I'm not a huge fan of pre-cat lacquers. They are designed to be sprayed as a system. One coat sealer, two top coats and thats it. If you get them to think they will get hairline cracks in them.
Nitro lacquer is much better for instrument finishing.
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03-25-2013, 09:14 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopkins I'm not a huge fan of pre-cat lacquers. They are designed to be sprayed as a system. One coat sealer, two top coats and thats it. If you get them to think they will get hairline cracks in them.
Nitro lacquer is much better for instrument finishing. | Do you have any suggestions on any semi-gloss nitro lacquer I could research/purchase? | 
03-25-2013, 09:34 AM
|  | Everybody Wang Chung Tonight | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Houston Tx | | | I use high gloss for everything. Like was said before, after you do your wet sanding you polish your finish to the desired sheen
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03-25-2013, 10:14 AM
|  | Registered User Endorsing Artist: Pedulla Basses | | Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Minneapolis by way of Chicago | | | Lots of great info in this thread! Worth making a sticky.
Lonnybass
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03-25-2013, 10:32 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: S/E Michigan | | | too many coats of semi-gloss clear can get a milky appearance so i suggest starting the clear process with high gloss and then top off with semi-gloss after you get coverage
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03-25-2013, 02:03 PM
| | Registered User guitar builder, Meyers Guitars | | Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Spartanburg SC | | | Great stuff here! | 
03-25-2013, 03:04 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by wcoffey81 too many coats of semi-gloss clear can get a milky appearance so i suggest starting the clear process with high gloss and then top off with semi-gloss after you get coverage | Thanks for the heads up! When I buff it will the high gloss come through?
Overall I'm looking for something between satin and high gloss....something with some sheen but not a mirror. I'm open to any other suggestions to what might get this kind of result but saw semi-gloss lacquer and wanted to see about pursuing this option. | 
03-25-2013, 03:29 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: S/E Michigan | | | Gloss Control the only way the high gloss would show through is if you burn through the semi-gloss by sanding or too much polishing. high gloss clear wet sanded with 2000 - 3000 grit paper would let you polish it to what ever level you are looking for.
some furniture guys final polish with brown paper grocery bags. you may want to do some research in that area to learn a few tricks on how to control gloss.
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03-26-2013, 06:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Massachusetts | | | + 1 on Grizzly as a source. They also sell McFadden lacquer, which is great. And pricing is good overall. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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