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  #1  
Old 09-25-2009, 10:11 AM
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Builder DPinton Guitars and Basses
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Normandie, France
Six string fretless bass... multiscale.

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This is my first contribution to the luthier's corner, I think.
I posted one in progress pic in a thread about figured Ash. There it is finished:
Specs:
Multiscale 6 String Fretless bass.
Curly Maçaranduba fingerboard with 24 maple fretlines and Maçaranduba binding.
Scales 920mm and 860mm.
Five piece glued-in neck: Curly Ash and Curly Maçaranduba.
Scarfed headstock with one piece Curly Ash veneer on front and Curly Maçaranduba on back.
One piece Curly ash body (35mm (1"3/8)thick) with matching pickup covers, control knobs and cavity cover.
The finish is oil and wax. The wax is a "Dark oak" colored.
Pickups are homemade, they're like big P90 with 12 5mm pole pieces and a second bobbin underneath the magnets (Alnico 5). They are very efficient humbuckers, extremely quiet.
Controls are two volumes and two passive tones. This bass has twin Bartolini buffers, which allow independent passive tone controls. It's very effective in adding some bass to your bridge pickup without loosing the edge: just leave the bridge volum and tone controls fully open, roll the neck tone control down then adjust neck volume to suit. I'll be using this combination on more basses to come. I do plan to add a seperate battery cavity with a magnet loaded cover (again matching)


















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  #2  
Old 09-25-2009, 12:27 PM
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Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
 
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Very nice job David.....Next question will be ; "where are the sound clips?" just a forewarning....LOL

Nice
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  #3  
Old 09-25-2009, 01:01 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Where are the sound clips?

Seriously, the bass looks killer. Glad you explained the construction in every detail, especially the pickup part. Mmmm. P-90-listic.
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  #4  
Old 09-25-2009, 02:31 PM
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Bartolini pickups are inside an sealed epoxied box. How did you take the pickups out of them? Or did you just put the pickup-box inside the covers you made?
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  #5  
Old 09-25-2009, 03:08 PM
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Builder/owner Redeemer Basses
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco Tx
Very nice! I really like the ash, superb curl. How do you like the tuners?
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2009, 04:11 PM
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very nice hard ash I assume? Very pretty...what does she weigh? ...t
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2009, 04:50 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Very well done, sir. I can imagine how difficult that ash was to work with at times. Nice design, execution and attention to detail!
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  #8  
Old 09-29-2009, 02:11 AM
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Builder DPinton Guitars and Basses
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Normandie, France
Thanks a lot for the comments.
I'll quickly answer your questions and I'll add more details later. If anybody wants some in progress pics of some operations I've got some.
Sound clips: I'm working on that but I'm not satisfied yet. I'll try to post some sound soon.
There are not Bartolini pickups, they're homemade. I used Bartolini buffers, which are small preamps without tone controls. However I've made the covers lofty enough to fit an aftermarket pickup in there in case I change my mind.
I'll post some pics of the interior of the pickups next time I take the covers off (will need to soon).
I don't think anything special about these tuners, I ordered them in the same shop where I found the individual bridges. There Duesenberg and are supposed to be really durable. I havent weighed them but they seem heavy (maybe that's just that there are six of them).
That's hard ash of course (no swamp ash over here), the bass weighs around 4 kilos (roughly 8 pounds). But I've played it for 4 hours in a row and it was not tiring at all. I'm very happy with the way it balances so that helps a lot. The only reason why the body on this one is not hollowed out is because I wanted to use a one piece body. I love being able to follow the curls around the body!!
It was indeed quite hard to work with especcially the neck, because cutting tools tended to tear some curls out and rasps made some deep marks in the soft year rings. I ended up using a portable belt sander to shape it after I got close enough, which worked great.
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  #9  
Old 09-29-2009, 02:36 AM
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Location: Texas
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that really turned out nice.. really nice..
  #10  
Old 10-16-2009, 06:52 AM
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Builder DPinton Guitars and Basses
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Normandie, France
Quick update: she weights 4.7 kg (roughly ten pounds). Sound samples are on the way...
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Some wood (yummy) 5 String Fretless Club #8
  #11  
Old 10-17-2009, 01:11 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
And there was much rejoicing.
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  #12  
Old 10-17-2009, 01:21 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oslo, Norway
To me that bass looks like a nightmare to play (intonation wise). Is it? Looks good!
  #13  
Old 10-17-2009, 06:52 PM
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i imagine it would be difficult to play at first. always having to watch where your playing, but i imagine you build muscle memory after a while so you have a better idea of what you are playing
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  #14  
Old 10-18-2009, 12:48 AM
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Builder DPinton Guitars and Basses
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Normandie, France
No actually, it's pretty easy to play. In the middle of the neck (say between 3rd and 10th fretline) you can hardly tell there's an angle when you play. Of cource I'm not a fast player...
When you go down low you have to over stretch a bit but not as quite as much as with a double bass!
The angled fretlines make chordal work more difficult above the 12th, but I can't make that sound good even on a regular fretless! I had actually planned to make it fretted at first but I was too eager to try a fretless Maçaranduba fretboard...


I'm plugging it in the computer as I type, I'll get some sound this morning.
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  #15  
Old 12-20-2009, 02:52 AM
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Builder DPinton Guitars and Basses
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Normandie, France
I didn't get any satisfying sound sample on my own so I'm posting a link to one Jam with my band. It's the first song on the list.
It features my basse with both pickups on. I happily satisfied with sound, very close to what I was aiming for.
Don't attention to the bad parts it's only a Jam!
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Some wood (yummy) 5 String Fretless Club #8
  #16  
Old 02-03-2010, 04:38 AM
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Builder DPinton Guitars and Basses
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Normandie, France
As the subject came up in another build thread, I'm gonna explain how I laid out the multiscale fingerboard.
I didn't have time to prepare sketches, but hopefully it'll be clear enough!

First step:
Choose your scale lengths.
Dingwall goes for 37" and 34", I went for 920mm and 860mm, because I can use available Extra Long Scale strings (also I'm French, so I favored the metric system ).

Second step:
Choose your "pivot" fret.
That the fret that will be perpendicular (or closest to perpendicular ) to the fingerboard centerline. I chose the seventh because it give the same offset at the nut and twenty-fourth frets (in my case 20mm)

Third step:
Fingerboard length.
Mark out both ends (nut and 24th fret) of the longest scale length on the fingerboard's centerline. Mark the seventh fret. Then using the seventh fret as reference mark both end of the shortest scale length.

Fourth step:
Fingerboard width.
Using a square and the short scale length as reference, mark the width of the fingerboard at both ends (nut and 24th fret).
I don't remember right now what width I went for but as it is a matter of preference you should work it out depending on your bridge and nut spacing.
Draw a line connecting each mark on the bass side and do the same on the treble side. Using your square extent the seventh fret mark until it crosses both sidelines.

Fifth step:
Outer strings centerlines.
The sidelines represent the edges of the fingerboard. You need to lay out the scale lengths where the outer strings will be to unsure correct intonation. In order to do that just draw a line parallel to the sideline on each side. The offset is your choice, just use what you know is comfortable to your hands. I seem to recall I used 4mm (to the string center) on the bass side and 3mm on the treble side.

Sixth step:
Scale lengths.
Using the seventh fret as reference mark the nut ends of both scales. Then lay out both scale lengths along the outer strings centerlines and mark each fret position.

Seventh step:
Fretlines.
Now you only have to connect your dots to draw your fretlines. You should be very cautious because when you are close to the ends the angles can make it a bit fiddly.

You're done!
Then you can do whatever you wanna do, cut them lines and fret'em or go the fretless route...

In all of this accuracy is the most important aspect. I'm actually using a utility knife to scribe all the lines, as it makes a much finer line. Just be gentle and it will all sand out in the end. For scale length I use the Stewart-MacDonald Fret Calculator.

There it is, I hope this helps anyone who considers the multiscale jump.
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Some wood (yummy) 5 String Fretless Club #8
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