Spoke type truss rod installation

jongor · #1 05-29-2006, 01:40 PM

I'm installing my first truss rod, in my first neck.

It's a Stew Mac Hot Rod.

How do I get the spoke through to the heel? THe instructions say to drill a 3/8" hole from the heel end. Will it go through then? Or do I continue the route right to the end?

The spoke nut doesn't come off, it's glued on.

tjclem · #2 05-29-2006, 09:26 PM

route to the end. You will have to route a little deeper and a little wider at the end where the round part of the rod is.......t

Suburban · #3 05-30-2006, 04:21 AM

"to the heel"? Aiming to adjust the truss from the back of the bass?

PaleMelanesian · #4 05-30-2006, 09:20 AM

I would continue the slot out to the end, and then enlarge what you need for the spoke's movement. Then you can just drop it in and cover it with the fretboard. Remember to allow space for the spoke to move forward and back (toward the head and bridge) as you adjust it.

edit:JP Basses Naia 12 Progress Thread, third picture to see what I'm talking about.

**Rodent** · #5 05-30-2006, 10:44 AM

continuing the basic 1/4" wide x 7/16" deep slot to the end will not provide the needed result, as the shoulder on the spoke section is a larger diameter than the trussrod brass blocks, and it is not nearly as deep. if you route the basic channel clear to the end, you will have an ugly gap on the bottom of the trussrod channel

instead you will need to route the end to be 5/16" D x 5/16" deep x 3/4" long, then lightly sand this to provide clearance. this obviously assumes that you wish to have the spoke sitting tight against the heel of the neck.

all the best,

R

**Rodent** · #6 05-30-2006, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Suburban

"to the heel"? Aiming to adjust the truss from the back of the bass?

with a spoke type trussrod adjuster, this is the only place you can reasonably locate it. attempting to orient this at the headstock would be potential for disaster - that's way too much wood removed in the headstock/neck transition area, not to mention that it would be butt ugly

all the best,

R

tjclem · #7 05-30-2006, 03:07 PM

I guess I must put mine in upside down. I have to route deeper to make the rounded end clear...t

**Rodent** · #8 05-30-2006, 04:33 PM

I've heard of people installing them this way, but I modified my install methods after observing how they are installed on a Sadowsky

all the best,

R

Musiclogic · #9 05-30-2006, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodent

with a spoke type trussrod adjuster, this is the only place you can reasonably locate it. attempting to orient this at the headstock would be potential for disaster - that's way too much wood removed in the headstock/neck transition area, not to mention that it would be butt ugly

all the best,

R

could not have said it better....LMAO

jongor · #10 05-30-2006, 07:02 PM

Like this?

**Rodent** · #11 05-30-2006, 07:27 PM

pretty close - remember that you're utilizing a router to make this slot, so you will have rounded corners (where you stop coming into the neck) as seen from the top view. I utilize a round nose (core box) type bit for the wider portion to keep the hole as small as possible, and to utilize a round edge where I can to prevent the inclusion of a stress focal point (and associated crack potential.) here's what one looks like if you are unfamiliar with them:

and remember that you'll also need a corresponding recess in the body to accommodate the spoked wheel

all the best,

R

jongor · #12 05-30-2006, 07:46 PM

I have this:

A square bottom would be bad?

**Rodent** · #13 05-30-2006, 08:29 PM

nope, not bad at all in this application ... but if this was an area that was receiving a lot of extreme localized flexing, then I'd be sure to use the core box bit.

and I'll admit that finding a 5/16" dia core box router bit is difficult to say the least

all the best,

R

Suburban · #14 05-31-2006, 01:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodent

with a spoke type trussrod adjuster, this is the only place you can reasonably locate it. attempting to orient this at the headstock would be potential for disaster - that's way too much wood removed in the headstock/neck transition area, not to mention that it would be butt ugly

all the best,

R

My interpretation of "heel" is the transition on the back of the bass, between neck and body. For bolt-on, the block in the body that the screws go through. Hence my question whether the plan was to adjust from the back, like Chapman stick. As opposite to the normal adjusting from the front of the body end of the neck.

I totally agree that a spoke sdjusted truss would not be adjusted at the head end, unless
a - headless; quite feasible, actually, though the assembly demands a lot of precision routing
b - the headstock has a massive volute; and that saying massive!

And I also agree on the proposed routing methodology presented above.

**Rodent** · #15 05-31-2006, 09:39 AM

I have seen a bass with the spoke adjustment provided thru a slot in the fretboard. I couldn't find the image yesterday, so I didn't note it.

all the best,

R

pilotjones · #16 05-31-2006, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodent

I have seen a bass with the spoke adjustment provided thru a slot in the fretboard. I couldn't find the image yesterday, so I didn't note it.

all the best,

R

I believe that was JP. And someone else, too, I think.

**Rodent** · #17 05-31-2006, 11:35 PM

you are most correct - it was JP!

Here's a spoke adjuster in the middle of a fingerboard

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpo...3&postcount=42

all the best,

R