Stewmac sheilding paint drying time in hot weather?
Near on 100degF here in Western Sydney today (37degC). Put the first coat of shielding paint on. It's water based. Surely in this heat I don't have to wait 24hrs (like the can says) to recoat?
Don't call me Surely :D
I have never waited 24 hours to recoat the stuff, I just wait until the first coat is dry enough to accept the second coat.
Sorry... Shirley. :P
I've used this stuff quite a few times in the summer and I waited about 12 hours between the 2 coats. Honestly, I can't really tell how well it worked or didn't work.
I saw the following statement amongst the reviews of the product:
A lot of reviewers have mentioned using a hair drier to speed things up. I went to a manufacturer's website and found this interesting tidbit: "The paint needs to be dry all the way through the paint (chemically dry) and not just "touch" dry, so always leave more time when in doubt. If you put a second coat on too soon, the two coats will bond and you will not get the additional screening protection."
I can't stand using that stuff. It's always so messy. I've taken our resident Bruce's advice and gone with MG Super Shield aerosol nickel. It's not cheap, but it works better.
Recoat in 5 minutes, dry enough to handle in 20 minutes, and a full cure in 24 hours.
I use it (Stew Mac shielding paint) and it's not all that difficult to work with. I wait until it changes from dark to light (dry) to re-coat. It will leave a chalky stain on your fingers if you touch it even after it's dry, but it washes off w/soap & water. I've used it on top of copper shielding tape and by itself and it works fine. It does have a tendency to dry-up in the can after a while, but I add a bit of warm water and mix it until it's useable.
I break out the wife's little heat gun she uses for her crafts, it dries it in a few minutes and ready for the second coat.
I have used it and other products similar and I do hate that the stuff comes off when rubbed. I think I will start clear coating the final shield coat and use a screw in the shielding to attach the ground wires....
Shielding paint: copper beats graphite
I guess it beats all the cutting (and getting cut) with shielding tape, but I was never happy with the StewMac graphite product. There is the messy blackness aspect of it (as others have mentioned) as well as the relatively poor conductance (typically around 100 ohms from one point in a cavity to another). I visited Ken Lawrence's shop and he turned me on to CuproCote, which is a copper-based shielding paint (http://www.lessemf.com/paint.html). It is a fairly thick water-based product that can be brushed on, or diluted and sprayed. I find that two coats works great, with very high conductance (2 ohms between points a few inches apart). It sticks better to bare wood than to painted surfaces, so a primer or at least good sanding might be needed for the latter. A 4 oz. can is about $30 - I have just finished two basses with big electronics and pickup cavities and used about 1/2 a can.
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