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07-01-2009, 02:34 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lucerne, Switzerland | | String through question
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Hi Guys,
I have a relatively new Fender Highway One Jazz Bass. It is a nice instrument, I am upgrading it a bit.
I put Fender custom shop vintage pickups on it and really like the sound.
The only thing I don't like about the bass is that it's not string through. I have a preference for string through body set-up, I like the resonance. I know it is a bit subjective.
Here is my question: Is it possible / recommended to drill holes through the body to make a string through set-up? Any tips, advice or experience would be most appreciated. Would this weaken the body, in other words, are the string through bodies reinforced somehow or otherwise different in construction?
Thanks for any inputs.
Der Basskopf (basshead, German!)
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Basskopf
-Fender Am. Deluxe & '64 NOS, Lakland JO Fretless
-Markbass LM Tube, Jeff Berlin & NY151
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07-02-2009, 12:02 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Czech Republic | | | use normal machine drill. Weakening of the body is not an issue. After the drilling u will need to insert string-ball-saddles or whatever they are called. They prevent the strings to bite into the wood. And by the way - the difference that string through makes is not the resonance (not that much I mean) but the tonal change due to the angle of string passing through the bridge. Have that on mind positioning the holes. The sharper angle the better since the string is having stronger push on the bridge.
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Pedulla, Alembic, Accugroove
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07-02-2009, 12:12 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Tasmania, Australia | | | Drill from the rear to front- as front holes are covered by bridge & don't matter if slightly 'out'. "ferrules' are what the string anchors are called & can buy em for $12 approx online.
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BONZA#32,Ampeg#34,EBMM#106,P-bass#581,Alleva-Coppolo, Lakland, Bergantino#32, BIG cabs club#16
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07-02-2009, 05:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lucerne, Switzerland | | | Thanks guys, appreciate your advice. Very astute point about the reason it sounds different too Spider (string angle on bridge)!
It inspired me to write a blues song about this process:
(Same melody as "Got My Mojo Workin' ")
Got my ferrules workin', but they just won't work on you
Got my ferrules workin', but they just won't work on you
I wanna drill you so bad, till I don't know what to do !!!!
__________________
Basskopf
-Fender Am. Deluxe & '64 NOS, Lakland JO Fretless
-Markbass LM Tube, Jeff Berlin & NY151
Last edited by basskopf : 07-02-2009 at 05:30 PM.
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07-02-2009, 05:29 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Darlington, UK | | Just make sure you get those holes straight - You want those holes to be square at the other side, or it WILL bug you
Drill Press would make this a non-issue for the most part.
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Stingray, Jazz, GK MB210+210MBE
GK Club Member #520
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07-02-2009, 07:15 PM
|  | Supporting Member Owner/Builder: Regenerate Guitar Works | | Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Upper Left Corner (Seattle) | | | if you don't have
- access to a pillar drill (drill press)
- the skills to properly use it with tight tolerances
- properly sized Forstner bits
I'd suggest either taking your bass to a competent tech or passing on the install idea. it's quite a skilled task to install multiple ferrules in an evenly spaced and perfectly straight line. being off by less than a mere 1/32" (.8mm) will result in an install that glares at you each time you see it
I work my ferrule installs as a 2-step process
1: locate the thru-body bridge holes in the top of the bass body. disassemble down to a bare body. tape off the area to make it easier to mark the locations, and also to reduce chipping the finish. drill thru from the top side with a pillar drill utilizing a brad point bit sized just larger than your largest string diameter
2: flip the body over. tape off the area on the back side. drill with a Forstner bit the large diameter needed to fit the ferrule. drill it deep enough that the ferrule will not bottom out before the lip seats against the body. drill the outer two holes first, then connect their outer edges with a tangent line so you have a reference for alignment. drill the remaining holes being certain to keep the spacing even
this install is sooooo much easier to work on an uncut body blank when you have a straight edge to rest against the table fence.
all the best,
R | 
07-03-2009, 01:52 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lucerne, Switzerland | | | Hey Rodent, really appreciate your comment. To be honest, I don't think I am going to attempt this myself. I like your idea of going to a bass tech to have it done. While not a super expensive instrument, my Highway One is still a good bass and I don't want to screw it up. Doing it myself would be a great project but my time is limited as well. Thanks again for the input.
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Basskopf
-Fender Am. Deluxe & '64 NOS, Lakland JO Fretless
-Markbass LM Tube, Jeff Berlin & NY151
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