swamp ash finish with tung oil

[PJ all day]

is there anyway to get this finish with tung oil i know you need to finish it then sand down the finish but could it work with tung oil

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...IMG_0564-1.jpg

[62bass]

Originally Posted by PJ all day

is there anyway to get this finish with tung oil i know you need to finish it then sand down the finish but could it work with tung oil

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...IMG_0564-1.jpg

Practice on some scrap ash first. Try a wipe on gel stain of the colour you want. Work it in to the crevices in the grain well and wipe off all the excess, wiping across the grain so you don't pull the stain out of the grain. Allow to dry for a day at least. Sand lightly with 320 grit until you get the effect you desire. Wipe off all the dust and start finishing with tung oil.

Make sure the gel stain is completely dry or the tung oil will soften it and cause it to bleed.

[T-Bone5566]

I think that's a real original funky color...you sure you want to stain it?

[RCCollins]

It looks awesome, I would skip the stain myself. Nothing looks better than natural ash. Keep in kind that the tung oil will darken it too

[62bass]

Originally Posted by T-Bone5566

I think that's a real original funky color...you sure you want to stain it?

I'm assuming that the picture in the link is an example of a finish he wants to recreate on an ash bass he owns. Maybe I'm missing something.

Tung oil will darken the grain somewhat it's true. That's why I recommend practicing on scrap wood first.

[PJ all day]

Originally Posted by 62bass

I'm assuming that the picture in the link is an example of a finish he wants to recreate on an ash bass he owns. Maybe I'm missing something.

Tung oil will darken the grain somewhat it's true. That's why I recommend practicing on scrap wood first.

yes i was just wondering if the color in the grain will work with the tung oil

[62bass]

Originally Posted by PJ all day

yes i was just wondering if the color in the grain will work with the tung oil

You can get an approximation of what the tung will look like by wiping a coat of paint thinner on the newly sanded bass. While it's still wet it'll look somewhat the same, except the tung will turn a bit more amber in colour.

As far as getting colour into the grain, I prefer the gel stains because they are easy to control and don't penetrate as depply as the liquid oil stains. They stick in the grain very well. The tung oil will not pull it out if you give the stain adequate time to dry. 3 or 4 days in a warm room is usually enough.

[ironrat]

Originally Posted by T-Bone5566

I think that's a real original funky color...you sure you want to stain it?

X100000000000

[vbasscustom]

so, the paint thinner wont raise the grain, or have any effect on the finish after, it will completely disapear?

[62bass]

Originally Posted by vbasscustom

so, the paint thinner wont raise the grain, or have any effect on the finish after, it will completely disapear?

It won't raise the grain. Water will though. It will not have any effect on any finish you apply after it except maybe if you use a water based finish, which you aren't. There will be a very slight residue of oil left after it dries which won't be of concern with any oil based finish. To the eye it disappears. I've never had any problem with any finish over wood that has been washed with paint thinner (otherwise known as mineral spirits) or naptha, and that includes water based varnish and paints. If you are still worried, remove any mineral spirits residue with alcohol.

If you're really concerned you can use alcohol in place of the paint thinner to get a look. Downside is it doesn't quite look the same while wet and it dries very quickly.

[PJ all day]

does anyone know where i can get either black or red gel stain

[PJ all day]

would this stain work

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishin...uid_Stain.html

[62bass]

Originally Posted by PJ all day

would this stain work

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishin...uid_Stain.html

It's a fine stain but not for what you're trying to accomplish.

You want a GELLED wood stain, as I said before. Gelled wood stains are available in paint stores and Lowes and Home Depot from various manufacturers in all sorts of colours. Gelled stains are not a runny liquid. They are gelled, sort of like gello. More of a paste. They don't run or drip. You apply them with a bit of cotton cloth and wipe off the excess with a clean cotton cloth. They are soluble in mineral spirits (paint thinner). If there is too much applied and you can't get it off with a clean cloth you can wipe more off with a cloth wetted with paint thinner as log as it hasn't dried yet.

Look for colours like red mahogany and dark walnut. You can mix colours together for different hues. Each manufacturers colours differ from the others. I like a brand called Woodkote but Varithane is good and so is Minwax.

As I said-you really need to practice first. It's obvious you don't know much about it. Nothing wrong with that. It does take some practice and experience with the materials to do a good job.

I've mentioned this many times before for beginners. A few people have taken my advice. Get a copy of the book "Hand Applied Finishes" by Jeff Jewitt and available from Taunton Press. If you don't want to buy a copy, check your library. It'll tell you more than spending weeks on the internet and it's written by a pro. You won't be getting false and contradictory advice.

[sargebaker]

If my memory serves me right, I recall people using epoxy to achieve the "Cerusé" finish (such as in the picture or like F Bass is famous for). I don't remmeber the process but it was roughly, apply the epoxy into the grain, sand, stain... something like that...A search might turn something up.