|tdf_xi ||08-18-2013 12:28 PM |
Top-mounted output jacks
I've started a couple of builds recently so in the process of getting all the necessary parts. Now my question is how do people normally deal with top-mounted output jacks without a pickguard? On my first build, I ended up making a circular indentation inside the electronics cavity (rear-routed) deep enough so that the jack could go through, but that left the wood around it very thin. Are there longer versions available? I was able to find long shaft pots, but the longer versions of output jacks look TOO long. Would it be better to stick with side-mounted jacks or there's something obvious I'm missing that can done to accommodate for that?
|tjclem ||08-18-2013 03:18 PM |
I have done it a few times and yes it does make for a thinner top but no problem so far. I have thought about doing a strat style jack plate either on the front or back too.... Good luck with what ever you do.
|Mahataru ||08-18-2013 07:17 PM |
I think your initial idea is the best option. Rout the cavity just deep enough to allow maximum top thickness for pots, then rout another slightly deeper area, maybe the size of a quarter, where the top is thin enough to accommodate the jack.
|line6man ||08-18-2013 08:14 PM |
Originally Posted by tdf_xi
Would it be better to stick with side-mounted jacks or there's something obvious I'm missing that can done to accommodate for that?
I like top-mounted jacks, but a lot of players detest them, because of how easy it is to accidentally rip the jack out of the bass, since the wood is thin around the jack.
Perhaps you should consider a recessed jack like this:
It would be more aesthetically pleasing, and more durable under stress.
|Bruce Johnson ||08-18-2013 09:01 PM |
You can also reinforce the area with a piece of aluminum plate. For example, rout the whole control cavity leaving the top wood 1/8" thick. Locate the pots, switches, and jacks, and drill large clearance holes down through the wood. These holes need to be larger than the socket wrench that goes over the nut of each control. A normal output jack or pot that goes through a 3/8" hole will need about a 3/4" hole.
Then cut a piece of aluminum plate (I usually use 0.090" thick 6061) to fit inside the control cavity, covering the whole inside top surface. Epoxy it up in there, then mark and drill the actual holes for the jacks and pots. The point is that the jacks and pots clamp on the aluminum plate, without touching the wood. The nuts end up being flush with the body surface. The knobs will cover over the holes around the pots. Around the nut of the jack, you'll see a little silver ring down in the recess. Do it neatly, and it's quite classy looking.
This makes a good mechanically strong installation, using the standard style Switchcraft jacks. A sharp yank will probably break the plug on the cord before it will damage the bass. As a bonus, the aluminum plate becomes the shield for the top surface of the control cavity, and all of the pots and jacks are automatically grounded together.
You can also use brass for the plate, if you want the brass color showing around the jack. But, brass plate is heavier and more expensive.
|tdf_xi ||09-13-2013 01:29 PM |
Awesome. Thanks for the ideas. Aluminum plate thing seems intriguing, I think I'll try it on the next project.
After a more careful search, it turns out that there are indeed longer jacks, with about 9mm (if I remember correctly) threaded part that should do the trick.
|knarleybass ||09-21-2013 01:52 PM |
I had a so called "friend" insist in sitting in at my gig, as he was playing he decided that it would be fun to run around on stage and ham it up, well he didn't look to see how long my chord was and went too far, ripping the jack out and tearing the top of my bass out... of course he blamed me for having to short a cable... no offer to fix or replace of course
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