Originally Posted by Smilodon
In your case a dual action truss rod wouldn't help much.
The main reason for having a dual action truss rod over a traditional one is to correct back bow.
Ah! Thanks. I was under the impression that something like the Stew-Mac Hotrod actually gave you better adjustment in both directions.
I guess theoretically, with the old single rod, if it's slack, and you still have too much back bow even with the nut loose, there's nowhere to go. With too much forward bow, you can tighten the rod.
It seems, however, that due to the tension of the strings, over time you would see more issues with too much forward bow, hence the number of threads here regarding the use of heat, clamps, washers, etc. to get more back bow adjustment.
Unfortunately, you often see rods on converted necks that have snapped off from being over-tightened in trying to get them dialed in. I always figured that without the frets, the design specs have even less back bow adjustment range.
I recently came into possession a nice Levinson that was damaged like this, and instead of a washer, there was a thick metal piece embedded in a slot against which the adjustment nut moved, making the Stew-Mac truss rod tool useless. There was no recourse but to pull the board, and route it for a new dual action rod.
Since these are nice basses, but not collectors items, I'm also going to route an adjustment cavity, like the Laklands have. It's ridiculous to have to remove the neck just to adjust the truss rod.