Ultralight Fender style

[PDGood]

Noob here. I'm going to build a body designed to keep weight down and probably purchase a neck.

I found a pdf drawing (with some measurements) of a Jazz on a thread here and will use that for the shape, and pickguard/knob layout. I have access to a CNC router and can make the cut file from the pdf by bringing it into Illustrator.

I bought some 8/4 Alder and with help from a guy with woodworking tools, cut the thickness in half in order to make a chambered body. I'll put the halves back together later. We pieced together three pieces to make a 16 x 23 panel for the front and another for the back. Those are setting up now.

I know that I should have all the parts before cutting and will start buying soon. I may wait on the neck since it is the big expense. I can make the pocket undersized and enlarge to fit. However, I get that it's important for the bridge measurement so it can't be too far down the line. First I want to make sure I can pull this off before dropping serious bucks.

I want to put a reverse P pickup on it in the standard P position and no other pup at the bridge. I'll hire a local tech to help me with the electronics. I'd like to have separate tone (passive) for each half of the pickup - something that should have been invented long ago. Don't know if that's possible, but want it if it is. So I'd have V T T knobs.

Question: Does anyone have a drawing to size of the P pickup cavity? And what is its location?
Question: Will the P pickup location be within the pickguard of the jazz? I know I'll have to make my own pickguard.

I'm using the drawing of the pdf to establish where the chamber cavities can safely be and will have them routed with the CNC also.
I intend to keep the center piece solid (as if it were a neck through), and then dodge electronics and arm and belly cuts.

Question: Are the screw holes for a Jazz pickguard in standard locations? Right now, I'm dodging those just to be safe, but since I'm making the pick guard it may be a moot point.

Haven't shopped necks yet but I'm looking for 34" scale, thin, fast, light weight, but sturdy and straight. I like low action. Ibanez necks are my favorite if that gives you an idea. I've considered buying one just to use the neck, but there are lots of options to consider.

Question: Are graphite reinforced necks heavier or lighter than non-graphite ones?

Hipshot ultralites or something similar seems appropriate for a light weight neck.

Any suggestions are welcome that help me reach my goal. This is just a fun thing for me - I have plenty of basses to play, so I'm just doing it to see what I can do and hope to get something nice and light to play in the process.

[Musiclogic]

Warmoth thin model neck might be right upo your alley, or you can shop Ebay, there are always Ibanez bass necks popping up on there.

[TheEmptyCell]

If you're going the CNC route, just get an Ibanez neck since you prefer those. Closest thing to that in the Fender world is the Geddy Lee neck.

If you look at Warmoths pickguard section, you'll see that a P pickup is very near the bottom edge of a Jazz pickguard, which looks tacky IMO. Since you're making the own you can modify that curve so it looks better.

[PDGood]

Thanks, guys. I shopped necks last night and really got sticker shock from Allparts and Warmoth. I think the most logical thing to do would be to buy a used Squier (so I can check out the neck under tension) and then I'd also have the bridge properly spaced for the neck and control panel.

[Stealth]

Looking side-by-side, I don't think the pickguard will cover it:



You're better off designing your own, or making a cross between the two pickguards. Or, heck, even a Cowpoke pickguard variant?

Also, since you'll handle the wood, you might as well handle the electronics. The schematic isn't complicated, but it will need a bit of black magic to work. I'll make a wiring schematic for you in a few hours with annotations on what does what.

[PDGood]

Yeah, a hybrid pickguard is definitely called for.
Thanks for the schematic!

[joeyl]

Originally Posted by TheEmptyCell

If you look at Warmoths pickguard section, you'll see that a P pickup is very near the bottom edge of a Jazz pickguard, which looks tacky IMO. Since you're making the own you can modify that curve so it looks better.

hey who you calling tacky? seriously though it is the only way to keep the P pickup in the usual spot.

[Stealth]

Found the old schematic that's a variant of what you wish.



This was made for someone who wanted a Jazz with independent tones, a blend and a master volume. In your case, imagine each Jazz pickup is actually one half of the "tetris-block" P-pickup. Since you don't need a blend, simply solder the blue, red and violet wires where the blend pot is on the schematic - that is, connect the output (right-hand side) of the two 220k resistors with the input (left-most tab) of the 250k volume pot.

To explain it a bit. Each pickup half has its own tone control. Because you only have passive electronics, each tone control would normally affect the entire circuit including the other pickup - so two tone controls would be useless. To counter that, the 220k resistors act as isolation of controls so the tone controls would work independently.

If you want a brighter tone out of the pickups, use a 500k pot for the volume.

[PDGood]

Fantastic! Many thanks.

[Stealth]

On further observation, I don't think my schematic will work as well, and here's why. The original Jazz bass schematic called for pickup coils being in parallel, which is how the tone controls are organized as well. The P-bass coils are usually in series, giving it the characteristic low-mid filled tone, so I'm not sure this'll be perfect.

[Grabow]

your bass buld will only be as good as the quality of the parts you use
if you are just looking to save money, get a Squier CV
if you are going to build get good parts and you won't be dissapointed

[PDGood]

Very true, Grabow.
The nice thing about a bolt on neck is that it allows parts to be interchangeable and upgrades can come little at a time. I plan to start with a Squier neck and bridge and enjoy learning how to build a body. Then if it really sounds good, when finances allow, replace the neck and have a really nice bass. But initially, the goal is to just have a fun project and see if I can make a lighter body. I have plenty of nice basses, so I don't need this to be a main player any time soon.

[PDGood]

I'm working on the cut file for the CNC. (See attached) This will be done in halves (top and bottom) and then glued together. I began this way because I wanted to make chambers, but now I've decided to just cut the holes all the way through the body - that will make it even lighter.
Because of this I'm going to leave off the pick guard and front control plate for the electronics. Instead, I'll route the inside of the front and back for the electronics, cavities for wiring and grounding - before gluing together.
I've still got to igure out the exact size of the knob stems and jack and pickups, plus the exact location of the pickup. Everything I've read measures from the nut and I'm not sure how to do that since I'm building the body first - but I do have a P bass so I should be able to just take measurements.
I purchased a used Squier (being shipped) which is supposed to have a nice straight neck. We'll see. I'll also use the bridge off of that.

[PDGood]

Still working on the cut file. Here's the latest. The black areas will be cut out all the way through the body. The gray areas are routes in the top, and the dashed lines are routes that will be done on the inside while the body is in halves.

I have a few questions:
On the second attachment, there's a photo of a body blank sold by a major manufacturer. Are the holes in the bridge area for string through? What are the extra set of three holes for?


Also, how do you line up the pickup vertically? do you dry fit the neck with strings and trace the outline of the pickups or put them in based on the centerline before the neck goes on?

[FunkRenegade]

who makes/sells that body? Routings are exactly like MIA fender precision.

[HaMMerHeD]

If Warmoth/Allparts are too high for you, look into Mighty Mite.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/acces...od-fingerboard

[PDGood]

Thanks Hammer. I found a Peavey bass for $70 with a good neck on it. I've got the body cut now and will post pics soon.

[PDGood]

Sorry about the quality - hand held in low light.

These show what a skilled craftsman an automated router is.
The small hole at the bottom of the pickup is to feed the wires through to the control panel and bridge for the ground. That may need to be bigger.

These pieces will be glued together after further routing has been done by hand on the inside of each.

[PDGood]

Here's what both halves look like together. (Not glued yet, of course)

The total body weight at this point is 4.25 lbs. This will come down after more routing and rounding over the edges and adding an arm cut.

One mistake I see already is I got the holes too close to the edge to use a 1/2 inch roundover. It can be done but would probably look silly.
It's a prototype so I expect I'll learn some things along the way.

[Geoff St. Germaine]

Very cool looking! If you didn't find or get an answer to your question abou the three holes by the bridge, they are just the predrilled holes for the bridge mounting screws. The pickup routes, as you've probably already figured out can be based off of the body centerline, provided the neck pocket and bridge are as well.