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  #1  
Old 06-04-2007, 06:12 PM
T2W T2W is offline
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Wood Bridge Tutorial.

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Ahoya,
As requested from a few TBers, I will attempt to explain how I build my bridges. This is my first tutorial, and I am definitely not a pro at building Basses and bridges. My skill will improve just like yours. Here we go.




This is what you will need. Template (or whichever other method you choose to use) bridge blank, extra big, I like to shape the bridge down to final size after the grooves are made, you will also need machine head screws, some springs, a Tap matching the machine heads, and basic tools to work wood and metal.



This is the template, I screw the blank on it, making sure that everything is nice and square. I also screw the template on the workbench to avoid it moving around while working.



Then I put on the template 'top piece'. This part slides over the two edges and has little clearance with the blank. There are two guides on the top piece, which are square, and are as wide as the router base, but the guides are longer than the router base. In my case, the equation is this: Base of router (mm) / by two, - Bit width / 2 + distance you want from the edge of the bridge to the saddle groove. With this Bass, my router is 146mm, bit is 5/8 (16mm) and I needed 3mm between the edge of the bridge and the saddle groove. so... 146 / 2 - 16 / 2 - 3 = 62. so by then you have figured out you place the edge of the blank 62 mm from the Guide (or stopper, on the Base of the template). you still following? Do the same thing for the other side of the bridge, I ended up taking off the bottom stopper and starting the cut from the bottom. Then it is important to screw and draw a line on both the top piece and base (with a ruler lined up with the 'top piece' guide, to make sure it is square too. Then, mark your grooves, according to the string spacing you want.



I took off the top piece and this is what I get. notice how the bottom stopper is gone now, I started the cut from the bottom, through the pine, and ended 3mm from the edge because of the stopper of course.



Holes must be drilled for the machine heads, be sure to leave enough clearance between the threads and the bottom of the saddle groove. Use a fence. In fact use a fence for most of what you do in a shop.



Cut the Brass or Aluminium to make the saddles, this depnds on what kind of Brass you can get your hands on. I use a 'Cremone' which is window hardware, 5/8 wide and 8 mm thick. I cut the saddle grooves to precisely 5mm and the saddles at 10mm which is 15 in total, then I take out about 2mm for the notch (where the strings sit in). so 13mm at the end, that was my desired height for the strings.



Hole for machine head screws are drilled on each saddle.



Holes are tapped, dont forget to order a few, and to use oil, these things can snap if you try tappin a 19mm thick piece of metal. I used 5-40 screws and tap, which is a little big to my liking, but thats what was available.



Then I work the wood to its final shape, I sand it. I do the same for the Brass saddles.



I drill the holes for the anchoring screws, of course with a fence. And check out the string height to see if its ok. Polish the whole thing, Oil the wood or whichever finish you prefer. Dont forget to use CA for those little 1/8 strips of wood between the saddles.



And on that my friends, I wish you luck. Its very important all of these steps are done with a good ruler, and a square, and a fence ! This aint framing for a house, but if you've gone as far as building your own Bass, I figure you are very well aware of this. Peace !

-Mario-

Last edited by T2W : 06-04-2007 at 08:17 PM.
  #2  
Old 06-04-2007, 06:20 PM
T2W T2W is offline
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And if anyone knows whats going on with those pictures... I would appreciate your help.
  #3  
Old 06-04-2007, 07:32 PM
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you'll want to use links that look like

http:// i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0056.jpg

instead of

http:// s189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/?action=view&current=IMG_0056.jpg

the first is a IMG, the second is a URL.
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  #4  
Old 06-04-2007, 08:22 PM
T2W T2W is offline
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Genius Ehque, Thanks. A lot better now.
  #5  
Old 06-04-2007, 08:39 PM
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Thanks!
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2007, 09:10 PM
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sweet Mario!

You can also drill and tap for small hex set screws for height adjustment (vital!). Great job.
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  #7  
Old 06-04-2007, 09:12 PM
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That is for the next prototype Wilser. Im havin trouble finding small screws with no head.
  #8  
Old 06-04-2007, 09:19 PM
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awesome post, ill never use it, cause me and wood working dont mix, but awesome post.
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  #9  
Old 06-05-2007, 11:00 AM
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T2W have a look in model shops. I also work with model Nitropowered cars, though it's on a backburner with my build underway, but there's plenty of small headless hex screws in those things. they're mighty small though...
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  #10  
Old 06-05-2007, 11:47 AM
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That looks excellent, although i think i would be tempted to have a thicker front wall and loose a bit of intonation adjustment, or get slightly longer screws.
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  #11  
Old 06-05-2007, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by T2W View Post
Genius Ehque, Thanks. A lot better now.
no probs, my second nature, this com stuff.

Nice bridge!
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2007, 12:06 PM
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And its not in the How-To Section because....?
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  #13  
Old 06-05-2007, 08:01 PM
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.... because the Mod hasnt seen it yet. by the way, I wouldnt mind building one of these for someone, if you want you can PM me and we could discuss. Height adjustment is the next step on this bridge, and if it aint this one, it will be the next one.. Peace.
  #14  
Old 06-05-2007, 10:03 PM
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Small set screws should be available at most hardware stores. They work well for set screws.

Also, as a carpenter, there is a lot of squaring and measuring in framing a house. You don't just bang it together or you will have major problems with drywall cracking, walls shifting with the seasons, trusses that don't fit correctly, things like that.

lowsound
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Last edited by iamlowsound : 06-05-2007 at 10:05 PM.
  #15  
Old 06-05-2007, 11:47 PM
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T2W... this is a really really nice tutorial!!!!
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  #16  
Old 06-06-2007, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by iamlowsound View Post
Small set screws should be available at most hardware stores. They work well for set screws.

Also, as a carpenter, there is a lot of squaring and measuring in framing a house. You don't just bang it together or you will have major problems with drywall cracking, walls shifting with the seasons, trusses that don't fit correctly, things like that.

lowsound
Ya I agree.. Just saying it aint the same size, definitely not the same precision, 1/16 aint as bad in framing as it is in buidling a Bridge or fretting a neck.
  #17  
Old 06-06-2007, 06:41 AM
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Thanks... I've been pondering this for a long time. One question, the CA goes on the vertical sides of the 1/8th strips? (I guess... where else!)

I always feel smarter when I answer my own questions?
  #18  
Old 06-06-2007, 06:58 AM
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I have small screws with no head... allen screws from an actual bridge... 8 of them. Price Drops: Pickup Screws, Parts, Strings, Pickups, an Explorer Neck!!! etc.

It would be cool to have one of these bridges but I only do 4 stringers myself...
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Last edited by WarriorJoe7 : 06-06-2007 at 07:02 AM.
  #19  
Old 06-06-2007, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bassksun View Post
And its not in the How-To Section because....?

Listen buddy, get off my butt!










Actually, I did see it the moment it went up, but was waiting for the picture issue to be resolved. It's in there now.
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  #20  
Old 06-07-2007, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by wilser View Post
sweet Mario!

You can also drill and tap for small hex set screws for height adjustment (vital!). Great job.
If you're gonna do that, then it would make sense to make thin brass "shims" for the screws to rub over when adjusting the intonation otherwise you'd dig grooves into the wood...
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