Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Luthier's Corner
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Luthier's Corner Discussion on instrument building, repair, and materials.


Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-16-2005, 05:29 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Would this be good?

Sign in to disble this ad
Hey, i'm making a 6 string fretless in woodwork this year and was just wondering if i could get some opinions on this.. Walnut back, mahogany core, coco bolo top, ebony fingerboard and maybe wenge neck? (I'm not too sure on the neck wood). I don't know if it'l be bolt on or set/neck through just yet as i have to see if i can get help/equipment usage from a friend.

I want something kinda deep and thumpy with nice attack (Think Claypools rainbow bass), yet can be smooth enough to get a real nice fretless tone. I'l be using EMG electronics most likely (Dual coil and a P or J).

So what do you think of that? Should i use something else other than coco bolo? Or something other than mahogany?

Thanks.
  #2  
Old 02-16-2005, 08:19 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ennui
To answer the final questions, no need. They are nice choices for a body. Unfortunately, you're not going to have a fun time finding quality ebony these days. I'd also use a maple core for the neck, because many of those exotic woods get a little funny. Wenge stringers are cool, though; actually, you might need them for the width.

Now getting a P- or J- pup from EMG that will accomodate a sixer is another story. I don't know if they do that.
  #3  
Old 02-17-2005, 12:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Quote:
Originally Posted by andvari7
To answer the final questions, no need. They are nice choices for a body. Unfortunately, you're not going to have a fun time finding quality ebony these days. I'd also use a maple core for the neck, because many of those exotic woods get a little funny. Wenge stringers are cool, though; actually, you might need them for the width.

Now getting a P- or J- pup from EMG that will accomodate a sixer is another story. I don't know if they do that.
Yeah, they have em. They're not like your traditional style ones though. Here: http://www.emginc.com/displayproduct...&catalogid=124 (P)

http://www.emginc.com/displayproduct...&catalogid=125 (J)

What would you suggest for a nice fretboard wood if not ebony? Something like Pau Ferro? (Sp?) Or something else.. Thanks for the reply btw.
  #4  
Old 02-17-2005, 12:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Detroit
Send a message via AIM to Rapscallion2112
there's always the option of using two sets of p pups if your using them...much like this Carl Thompson (just thought I'd use that as an example since you brought up the rainbow bass)

http://ctbasses.com/tonybody_orig_pups.jpg
__________________
think for yourself, question authority
  #5  
Old 02-17-2005, 01:07 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Oops, sorry. They actually do have P pups for sixers http://www.emginc.com/displayproduct...&catalogid=109 .

I've seen that CT. Not sure if i'd like two P pups though. I'm not even using one ATM (Own a Sterling). I was thinking the dual coil for big low end and punch, and the J for some more attack/high mids. The P is just an idea for even more thumpiness, lol. A Dual/P/J would be overkill wouldn't it? (And hard to wire up..)
  #6  
Old 02-17-2005, 02:12 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Warrington, NW England
Quote:
Originally Posted by popinfresh
Oops, sorry. They actually do have P pups for sixers http://www.emginc.com/displayproduct...&catalogid=109 .

I've seen that CT. Not sure if i'd like two P pups though. I'm not even using one ATM (Own a Sterling). I was thinking the dual coil for big low end and punch, and the J for some more attack/high mids. The P is just an idea for even more thumpiness, lol. A Dual/P/J would be overkill wouldn't it? (And hard to wire up..)
Warwick do a dual P on one of their basses, and a music-man type bridge pup with a J neck pup on one of the others, which sounds the wrong way round, but I expect that they know more than I do. If you can find someone with them in stock, you could hear what they could do for you.

Last edited by Mottlefeeder : 02-17-2005 at 02:13 AM. Reason: spelling!
  #7  
Old 02-17-2005, 03:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mottlefeeder
Warwick do a dual P on one of their basses, and a music-man type bridge pup with a J neck pup on one of the others, which sounds the wrong way round, but I expect that they know more than I do. If you can find someone with them in stock, you could hear what they could do for you.
Got the model? Didn't know warwick had that, or was it released at NAMM? They also did dual humbuckers keeping one in the sweet spot.
  #8  
Old 02-17-2005, 04:19 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Oh also, i'm planning on making a fretless four soon, just like a practice bass. Would African Afzilia make a good fretless body wood? For this one i want a really warm, smooth and full fretless sound. It will actually be used in my old school/hard rock band, but yeah.
  #9  
Old 02-17-2005, 05:03 AM
tjclem's Avatar
Registered User

Owner and builder Clementbass
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Central Florida
GOLD Supporting Member
"What would you suggest for a nice fretboard wood if not ebony? Something like Pau Ferro? (Sp?) Or something else.. "

I use Bubinga a lot for a fingerboard. Strong and sharp looking.........t
  #10  
Old 02-17-2005, 10:25 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Warrington, NW England
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mottlefeeder
Warwick do a dual P on one of their basses, and a music-man type bridge pup with a J neck pup on one of the others, which sounds the wrong way round, but I expect that they know more than I do. If you can find someone with them in stock, you could hear what they could do for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by popinfresh
Got the model? Didn't know warwick had that, or was it released at NAMM? They also did dual humbuckers keeping one in the sweet spot.
http://www.warwickbass.com/basses/buzzard_ltd.html
has a dual P type, and
http://www.warwickbass.com/basses/streamer_jazzman.html
has a MM and a J type.
  #11  
Old 02-18-2005, 03:43 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Ohhh, i read your post wrong. I read it with a hummer at the neck and the jazz at the bridge. I was thinking that's a little wierd. Did you see their dual humbucker corvette's that they had at namm? I'l have to see if anyone carries/could get in a buzzard around hear.

Anyway, for the fretless's. Do you think set, bolt or neck through would be best? Any other suggestions for the fretboard? What sound would i get from bubinga on a fretboard?

Any handy sites for this stuff would be great too, i've been looking through this site and google etc.. havn't found too many helpfull ones.
  #12  
Old 02-18-2005, 06:09 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Warrington, NW England
Quote:
Originally Posted by popinfresh
Ohhh, i read your post wrong. I read it with a hummer at the neck and the jazz at the bridge. I was thinking that's a little wierd.
I'm interested to know why you thought a hummer at the neck, and a J at the bridge end would be odd. I thought that it would give you something like the traditional P/J mix, which is why I thought the reverse layout was odd. If you fatten up the bridge pup sound, and thin down the neck pup sound, wouldn't you lose some of the range of tone that a neck P and a bridge J would give you?
  #13  
Old 02-25-2005, 04:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Aus
I only thought it would be odd because i've never seen a doil coil/J combination in that way.

So if i'm using a cocobolo top, mahogany middle and walnut back. I'm still not sure for the neck, and wether i could make the neck myself as i suppose a sixer neck is going to be hard. Do you think i should go neck thru or set neck? What's typically easier and where do you guys get your neck woods from? I was thinking a mix of bubinga and something for a neck (maybe not even having a fretboard)... tell me if you think that'l be bad.
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:50 AM.




Copyright ©2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All right reserved.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.