| Adjust the truss rod for near flat neck and adjust each saddle for action height as desired. Check for buzz thru the amp and cab, not byb playing it unplugged. A bass can have a fair amount of fret rattle unplugged that doesnt carry over thru the amp and cab except maybe as a nice little sound tweak. The thing to avoid is notes fretting out or or being damped. By damped I mean the note sounds but no sustain due to too much fret rattle. I had a sr300 and was able to get just under 2mm for action at 12th fret on E string. B strings will rattle more. Being 34 instead of 35 scale doesnt help.
I like the sr300 series sound wise a lot. But they and Id reasonably asume the 305 has bridge saddles with overly narrow height adjustment screws. Which results in saddles riding down the screws from sound vibration. Fixed with lock tight or simliliar easy enough. But can be a hassle untill you identify which saddles screws have the problem with your particuliar bass and fix that.
So, sight down the neck and verufy its allmost dead straight, no sign of backbow at all and just barely perceivable up bow. Then adjust each saddle height as desired individually. Once thats done, do little tweak if desired by slightly raising a bridge saddle as needed for better for your string to string balance action wise as played. Dont expect each string to be the exact same height off fretboard, that just stifles your ability to adjust action for your best playing as an individual. Dont go by factory specs as this is generally for a generic medium action and doesnt even begin to adress individual players optimums.
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life for its own carnal pleasure. Bass: Jackson JS3. Bass strings: Rotosound swing66. Guitars: BC Rich. Guitar strings: Daddario XL nickel. Zoom club#2. BC Rich club#26.
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