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11-15-2012, 10:23 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina | | | Amazing! Incredible Build! I mean this with every ounce of My Being. "You need to build basses for a living"
I have also used many many Mighty Mite Necks and The quality is top notch. |
11-15-2012, 10:35 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: ca | | | WOW .... I wanna build one now!!!! Seriously! |
11-15-2012, 10:37 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Australia | | | Mmmm lollipops. I've always loved those.
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Fernandes Club #34 | SX club member in good standing | The Lone Wolf Club #29
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11-15-2012, 10:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Petaluma, California | | |
Last edited by PBASSTONE : 11-16-2012 at 01:44 AM.
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11-16-2012, 06:55 AM
| | Registered User
Design Engineer, Rupert Neve Designs | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Wimberley, TX | | | again, very nice.
details? Mighty Mite neck and body? what additional work did you do, if any, to arrive at the final product? |
11-16-2012, 08:15 AM
| | | | I usually hate black basses and rosewood fretboards but that is gorgeous. Id say a very good job. |
11-20-2012, 02:21 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: The Netherlands | | Sweet jesus that looks amazing!  |
11-20-2012, 03:39 AM
|  | Psst. It's "Squier" | | Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Philly suburbs | | Awesome work. Surprised no one tried to lynch you for using a repro headstock decal  |
11-20-2012, 05:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: magically delicious detroit | | | I finally built a jazz bass using a Mighty Mite body and neck. I never had a jazz bass that I liked (after about 6 of them) but when this one was done I couldn't believe the difference between it and the one's I'd previously had/played. It sounds and plays incredible, not sure why since I thought the parts were the same dimensions as Fender but theres a difference.
I've done 4 guitar builds using Mighty Mite and have gotten several replacement parts from them and have never had any issues with their products.
Congratulations on a great build! |
03-13-2013, 07:08 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by PBASSTONE  Basically the process is pretty straight forward. You start with a bare neck from Mighty Mite, or what ever brand neck you use. Use blue masking tape to tape off the rosewood fretboard. For maple necks leave untaped. Give it a very, very light sanding just to knock off any sealer the neck may have from the factory. Take a can of spray lacquer sanding sealer, (I use DEFT brand) and follow the instructions on the can. Next day I apply Clear Wood Finish to the front and back of the neck (Gloss Lacquer Spray), by DEFT, follow instructions on can. Next day I apply the neck with coats of amber ReRanch (I've also used StewMac ColorTone Vintage Amber), (spray coats to desired color, don't go to dark or it starts to look orange). Next day apply your Fender water-slide, let that dry over night. Next day apply more coats of Clear Wood Finish (Gloss Lacquer Spray), by DEFT to the front of the head stock. You need a minimum 10 coats on the front of the head stock to build up enough coats to wet-sand down the ridge from around the Fender water-slide because the water-slide adds height that needs to be wet-sanded down to be even with the head stock. You don't want to accidentally sand through the water-slide, but you don't want to leave much of a ridge around the water-slide either. After you have Sanded down the water-slide even with the headstock, let dry over night. Next day add a few more coats of lacquer and let that dry over night. After you have let the coats of lacquer dry sufficiently , you can proceed with the wet sanding of the head stock. ( DON'T RUSH THE DRYING PROCESS! Follow the instructions on the can! If you don't let the lacquer dry enough, and you add more of it on top of still wet coats of lacquer, the lacquer will start to bubble and look like crap and then you'll want to cry because you weren't patient.  ). On the head stock you can start with 800 grit, then work to 1000, then 1500. Then I use a scratch removing car polish to really bring out the gloss on the head stock. You can also do a light wet sanding of the entire neck its self, and then apply the car polish to make the whole neck shine. Some people prefer the neck to be matte finished, so just lightly sand and don't use the polish. Let the neck dry for at least a week before installing it on the guitar. For maple fretboards you need to clean off the lacquer from the frets very carefully. I use my fingernail very gently as to not pull up the lacquer on the fretboard its self. Your going to also have to ream, or sand out the tuner holes as they will be filled with lacquer. Rock on! | I am about to build one of my own. Just curious by light sanding what grit you recommend? Also does the factory sealer have to be knocked off? Thanks | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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