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  #1  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:13 PM
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Dingwall Question

This bass, from another thread, sparked a question.


Why is it the 8th fret is the closest to perpendicular and not the 12th? Does it have to do with an averaged natural hand position, or is there another reason?

Just curious.

P.S. I don't know how people play these things.

Last edited by Stone Soup : 12-31-2012 at 04:16 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:17 PM
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I think it's actually the 7th fret that's closest to parallel.

If I have the story right, the testing of scale lengths produced the end product of what sounded best. So, it just happens to line up that way and I don't think there was any predetermined thought put into which fret lined up parallel.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stone Soup View Post
This bass, from another thread, sparked a question.


Why is it the 8th fret is the closest to perpendicular and not the 12th? Does it have to do with an averaged natural hand position, or is there another reason?

Just curious.

P.S. I don't know how people play these things.
they play like butta , really .. like a dream and every note has it going on . It will bring a smile to your face .
  #4  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Smallmouth_Bass View Post
I think it's actually the 7th fret that's closest to parallel.
I used "perpendicular" because there are no parallel frets. The 7th fret is the closest to perpendicular, to the edge of the fretboard.
  #5  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:30 PM
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I believe it's because the 7th fret is closest to the direct middle of the fret board, so over the entire FB there is a smooth transition in fret direction. The 12th fret would only work if the FB extended to the bridge. 12th Fret is the middle between nut and bridge.

If the 12th fret was the most perpendicular then the last frets would have to turn alot more dramatically then the first 11.
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  #6  
Old 12-31-2012, 04:57 PM
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Whatever you do, don't play one. As well as being one of the most ergonomically designed instruments, flawlessly constructed and finished, they are highly addictive. No joke - I'm waiting for Sheldon & crew to build my fourth. BTW that is a beauty!
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2012, 07:32 PM
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If you hold a Dingwall in your hands, extend your index finger (as though you were doing a bar chord), and let your fretting hand/arm rotate at the elbow, you'll notice the angle of of your index finger through the sweep closely matches the alignment of the frets. Very natural-feeling, I'm honestly surprised that it hasn't become more popular.

As long as the fret spacing under each string is still proportionate to the length, the system will work fine. Technically speaking, you could even make the zero fret or the bridge parallel if you wanted. But that would exaggerate the opposite end's angle so much that it would become awkward.
  #8  
Old 12-31-2012, 08:59 PM
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How about this if you're looking for an ergonomic option? It's available with fanned frets as well. Strange to look at, but very cool.

http://littleguitarworks.com/

Jeff
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2012, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffmensch View Post
How about this if you're looking for an ergonomic option? Yes, it's available with fanned frets as well. Strange to look at, but very cool.

http://littleguitarworks.com/

Jeff
I'm going to try and test drive some Dingwall basses next weekend , for whatever reason I find them to be the best looking basses going and I really like the fanned fret idea. Those things look very interesting as well, I'd love to try one.

So far nothing can replace my Ibanez SR1400 in my hands but I will keep trying!
  #10  
Old 01-01-2013, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stone Soup View Post

P.S. I don't know how people play these things.
It's really a very ez adjustment that most make instinctively. It is only that the roation of your fretting hand just doesn't have to be as severe, which makes a Dingwall more comfortable to play at the lower positions.

When I play parallel fret basses, I simply rotate my hand until my wrist is nearly parallel with the neck, and that rotational position is constant up and down the board, whereas with my Dingwalls, the hand can remain in a less severely rotated position at the lower positions, and you simply rotate the hand a bit more as you move up the board and the frets become more parallel, and where it is also easier to get that rotation I might add.

But believe me, you figure that out almost instinctively. You really don't need to think about it.

What some people have difficulty with is the 37" scale on the AB's, Z's and Primas. If you are not comfortable with longer scale basses, the Super J or Super P will be nice and comfy.
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  #11  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mehve View Post
Technically speaking, you could even make the zero fret or the bridge parallel if you wanted. But that would exaggerate the opposite end's angle so much that it would become awkward.
You are correct Mehve. And the choice of the 7th fret was deliberate, not an accident. Here is a quote from Sheldon on the Dingwall web site:

"We tested the "hinge fret" position in several places including the 12th fret. Although placement at the 12th makes the upper frets more easily adaptable, it makes the lower frets less so. My feeling has always been that the majority of notes that a working bass player plays are below the 12th fret so the 7th fret hinge position places the least angled frets in the center of the "money frets"."

See the original conversation at this link. I have a couple photos there of Earl Pereira playing a Dingwall prototype with a 12th fret hinge point.

https://dingwallguitars.com/communit...t=hinge#p18071
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:06 AM
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the super J+P series actually feel like a shorter scale IMO. easy as hell to play and a neck to die for.
if you play one , you need to prepare to buy one so be careful...
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stone Soup View Post
P.S. I don't know how people play these things.
I'm not yet an owner of a Dingwall, but someday I'd like to be, and have gotten to play one for a few minutes. It's actually a very easy transition. The only awkward aspect for me during my brief test drive was chording, which isn't really part of my playing style anyway.
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stone Soup View Post
P.S. I don't know how people play these things.
You'd be surprised. Mostly with their fingers, with some use of picks and thumbs as well (or so I'm told).

I played 3 or 4 recently in a shop, just because the fanned fret concept intrigued me. I have to say that both I and my brother-in-law (guitarist and occasional bassist) came to the conclusion after trying them: it's weird that they don't feel weird.
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:35 AM
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Jeebus, GAS strikes again...

I WANT a Super J!!!
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...the standard "Precision pickup" (the one that looks like a Tetris block)
  #16  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by joebar View Post
the super J+P series actually feel like a shorter scale IMO. easy as hell to play and a neck to die for.
if you play one , you need to prepare to buy one so be careful...
Yes. The Super J and Super P are shorter scale. The G is 32 inches and the B is 35. Other Dingwall models go from 34 inch G to 37 inch B.
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  #17  
Old 01-02-2013, 11:12 PM
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I need to find one locally to try.
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