Fender: quarter sawn vs flatsawn maple necks

Tommy Tourbus · #1 02-24-2011, 01:57 PM

is quarter sawn a big advantage over flatsawn? I've noticed Fender production basses are flatsawn and their custom shop models are quarter sawn

Antny · #2 02-24-2011, 02:06 PM

It's a prettier cut, and said to be more stable, in terms of its propensity to twist and warp.

KJung · #3 02-24-2011, 02:13 PM

I think it is mostly aesthetics... prettier grain. Any good quality piece of maple will be stable. So, IMO, not much of an issue. My Sadowsky, Alleva, and Nordtrand maple necks are flat sawn (the Sadowsky has a quarter sawn maple fretboard, since I believe Roger says he likes the look of the grain better on the board. Back of the neck, no big deal!

IMO!

aus_bass · #4 02-24-2011, 02:15 PM

Same deal with the Laklands........ USA models are quarter-sawn, while Skylines are flat-sawn.

king_biscuit · #5 02-24-2011, 02:23 PM

I seem to remember Roger Sadowsky stating that he doesn't use quarter sawn necks, because flat sawn adds rigidity side to side, and the truss rod adds it back to front. It would seem that a quarter sawn neck may actually be less stable, (side to side) then.

unclejane · #6 02-24-2011, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy Tourbus

is quarter sawn a big advantage over flatsawn? I've noticed Fender production basses are flatsawn and their custom shop models are quarter sawn

The wood is a little stiffer parallel to the grains, so quarter-sawn can add a little rigidity in the direction the strings tend to pull the neck. My G&L L2500 had a quarter-sawn neck and it was strong as beejeezus. My L2000 has a more or less flat sawn neck, but it's also very stable (probably more due to the bi-cut construction and the piece of ebony glued over the top of it than the grain).

Since I personally like as much strength in a neck as possible (I like a dead dead dead and then more dead tone acoustically) I would probably pay a little extra for a quarter-sawn option, tho not a lot extra.

With a multi-piece laminate neck, tho, it probably doesn't make any difference how the grain runs on the pieces....

LS

johnk_10 · #7 02-24-2011, 03:54 PM

i've always considered quarter sawn necks to be a little stiiffer/stronger than flat sawn, but i did read somewhere recently that its not necessarily the case.

BTW, most vintage fenders (90%) are flat sawn.

i've owned (and built) guitars and basses with both types, and while i slightly prefer quarter sawn, the flat sawn ones never sounded much, if any, different or had any strength/straightness issues.

mdogs · #8 02-24-2011, 04:02 PM

I have one Pedulla with a 2 piece quartersawn maple bolt on neck. I have owned it since 1993 and have adjusted the neck exactly one time and this was part of a fret job. Can anyone say this about a Fender without the stiffening bars? Even with the stiffening bars? I know my Fenders need at least one per year, usually a couple per year...

johnk_10 · #9 02-24-2011, 04:08 PM

i adjusted my '55 p bass neck once, and that was 30 years ago. it is still perfectly straight, and same goes for my 1962 precision.

unclejane · #10 02-24-2011, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdogs

I have one Pedulla with a 2 piece quartersawn maple bolt on neck. I have owned it since 1993 and have adjusted the neck exactly one time and this was part of a fret job. Can anyone say this about a Fender without the stiffening bars? Even with the stiffening bars? I know my Fenders need at least one per year, usually a couple per year...

For what it's worth, my Carvins have 5 piece laminate necks (maple/walnut stripes) and they need about the same amount of adjustment as my L2000.

My L2000 is absolutely the most stable Jazz style neck I've ever seen. It won't so much as go out of tune for months and months, and yet it's the #8 which is an eensy little stick. It's a flat sawn (or just about flat) maple neck - but this probably says more about LF's bi-cut neck design then the grain direction...

So I dunno, if I have a preference I like quarter-sawn, but I can't argue with my L2000 either

LS

pedroims · #11 02-24-2011, 05:16 PM

any picture so I can see the difference, I dont know what you guys are talking about

OldDog52 · #12 02-24-2011, 05:35 PM

I had to look it up myself. Is this what we're talking about:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attach...1&d=1298594072

pedroims · #13 02-24-2011, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldDog52

I had to look it up myself. Is this what we're talking about:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attach...1&d=1298594072

thanks ! now is clear

Mastermold · #14 02-24-2011, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldDog52

I had to look it up myself. Is this what we're talking about:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attach...1&d=1298594072

Picture says 1000 words? Thanks for posting this.

I own Fenders with both kinds of necks and I can't say I've noticed any difference. I have a CS P-bass with quarter sawn neck that recently went back to Fender for a new neck, not because of the saw cut but because it came brand new with a stuck truss rod so I couldn't adjust the neck. (I'm told Fender is building me a new neck for the bass to make sure everything is perfect this time.)

DerHoggz · #15 02-24-2011, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnk_10

i've always considered quarter sawn necks to be a little stiiffer/stronger than flat sawn, but i did read somewhere recently that its not necessarily the case.

http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

I think I posted this a while back, is this what you're talking about?

mdogs · #16 02-24-2011, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnk_10

i adjusted my '55 p bass neck once, and that was 30 years ago. it is still perfectly straight, and same goes for my 1962 precision.

Ok or basses that have redwood trees for necks

johnk_10 · #17 02-24-2011, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdogs

Ok or basses that have redwood trees for necks

well my '62's neck isn't very big at all, and the neck on my '55 is super lightweight. (the whole bass weighs 7lbs 3 oz).

johnk_10 · #18 02-24-2011, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerHoggz

http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

I think I posted this a while back, is this what you're talking about?

i'm not sure if tha's the exact same article, but it basically says the same thing. thanks for the link!

i will say that one of my most recent builds had a neck that was the flattest sawn neck that i've ever seen. the grain ran perfectly straight from the bass side to the treble side when viewing the neck from the heel. and that neck was super stiff and had NO dead spots when it was on the bass. it sounded great too.

GlennW · #19 02-24-2011, 09:31 PM

I read somewhere that quartersawn is about 30% stronger. Here's a 3-piece (not counting fretboard) neck I made for my Tele.

yamaha · #20 02-24-2011, 09:49 PM

A good tech told me that it is only esthetics, apparently, any other difference is marginal. I own a 2008 USA fender jazz with an astonishing flat saw neck. It is almost 100% symetrical, and very lightly wavy, but most of the grain is pretty straight. Looks amazing. (Just looks, I know).

I also have a 2010 Fender custom shop (Great instrument), but that happens to have the worst quartersawn grain I have ever seen. Looks like a Squire Custom Shop neck, LOL. Still quite happy with the bass, but I was expecting a jaw dropping gorgeous grain.