Fenderbird build!

Tommygunn · #1 11-12-2010, 06:42 PM

So I've been thinking about it for a while, and decided to go in on it. Basically I'm going to build a fenderbird but no controls, and it only have a kill switch. Nikki Sixx esque. Of course its going to be pine bodied and spray painted, so it's not going to be a 'legit' build.

I'm picking up the pine slab tomorrow I'm hoping. Now I need to find a Tbird to trace.

I haven't decided on pickups, pickup placing, bridge, or fretted or fretless (I'm just going to buy a stewmac neck).

Throw in suggestions or questions. Thanks.

Darkstrike · #2 11-12-2010, 07:00 PM

A fretless Fendabird with just a P pickup would be awesome.

gus1894 · #3 11-12-2010, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkstrike

A fretless Fendabird with just a P pickup would be awesome.

Man, that WOULD be cool.

Tommygunn · #4 11-12-2010, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkstrike

A fretless Fendabird with just a P pickup would be awesome.

Thats def an option. I was going for the tbird buckers though. Like maybe just one in the ray position.

The more I think about it the better it does sound Bill. Once I get everything cut and shaped (I will be doing contours on this bass), I will go back over all my pickup options.

And by bridges I was thinking something like the old MM bridges (the ones with the mutes), IMHO that would be so sick!

A-Step-Towards · #5 11-12-2010, 08:01 PM

Awesome glad your starting it.

nato101010 · #6 11-13-2010, 02:54 PM

Pine?

Darkstrike · #7 11-13-2010, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nato101010

Pine?

Nothing wrong with pine, except it's not that pretty, easily coverd by a solid finish.

ghostdog93 · #8 11-13-2010, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkstrike

Nothing wrong with pine, except it's not that pretty, easily coverd by a solid finish.

Pine is a softwood. Some pine can be really soft, as in you can leave a nasty gouge in the surface with just your thumbnail.

I do a fair bit of custom cabinetry, and have used pine quite a few times over the years. A wood hardener (like Minwax) or even a wood conditioner (like Benite) can help offset a softwood's tendency to chip or ding easily. I imagine that one or two coats of hardener on the body slab before finishing would make the body a bit more durable in the long run.

I've seen some cool pine Tele guitars, and I know bass bodies have been made out of agathis (another softwood) for years. Personally I would shy away from these if I wanted my bass body to stand up to the rigors of playing and gigging without collecting pockmarks, but hey...that's one easy way to get a relic look without the cost!

Darkstrike · #9 11-13-2010, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghostdog93

I've seen some cool pine Tele guitars, and I know bass bodies have been made out of agathis (another softwood) for years. Personally I would shy away from these if I wanted my bass body to stand up to the rigors of playing and gigging without collecting pockmarks, but hey...that's one easy way to get a relic look without the cost!

As is basswood, and paulonia, both of which were also often used on instruments without issue.

I've not heard of a Bongo player saying their body is too soft.

Tommygunn · #10 11-13-2010, 04:33 PM

Pine just because its cheap. And I had another idea for pickups.

Bartolini T4 pickups but in the same positions as the warwick thumb5.

ghostdog93 · #11 11-13-2010, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkstrike

As is basswood, and paulonia, both of which were also often used on instruments without issue.

I've not heard of a Bongo player saying their body is too soft.

This is why I said "personally". As in, you know, my opinion...I would personally shy away from softwoods if I was making my own bass body. That doesn't mean the OP can't make an absolutely beautiful looking and playing bass from pine.

FWIW, both basswood and paulownia come from deciduous trees and are classified as hardwoods, even though they can both be relatively soft (less dense).

amimbari · #12 11-13-2010, 04:45 PM

Tommy, Tommy, it's been a while since you started a "I want to but never will" thread

and just after you saw this website and posted about it in ANOTHER thread wishing it was a righty...shame shame..

LeftyLang “T Bird” Style has a one piece pine body with carved/raised center section, maple neck with rosewood fretboard all finished in nitrocellulose satin black. The bridge is a Hipshot clone, the pickups are Bill Lawrence humbuckers. A big bass with a huge tone and lottsa punch. Includes Hardshell Case.

Demo Model $1150.

Tommygunn · #13 11-13-2010, 04:47 PM

I'm just using pine because its cheap. This is my first build and a project. It will be spraypainted, and a beater bass... no need for it looking good. I just need it to sound good.

Tommygunn · #14 11-13-2010, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amimbari

Tommy, Tommy, it's been a while since you started a "I want to but never will" thread

and just after you saw this website and posted about it in ANOTHER thread wishing it was a righty...shame shame..

LeftyLang “T Bird” Style has a one piece pine body with carved/raised center section, maple neck with rosewood fretboard all finished in nitrocellulose satin black. The bridge is a Hipshot clone, the pickups are Bill Lawrence humbuckers. A big bass with a huge tone and lottsa punch. Includes Hardshell Case.

Demo Model $1150.

haha. I've been working on my other project actually. I need a break though, TBQH. And I've had a bad craving for a thunderbird for a while. This one should be finished by the end of december (money permitting). And its a lot cheaper of a project.

Dark Horse · #15 11-13-2010, 04:51 PM

Pine is actually surprisingly good sounding. Yeah, it's softer than mahogany, ash, alder, etc....but it is also cheaper, more available, easier on tools, etc. I like pine and have made several basses with it. The Minwax hardener is helpful, and I would definitely suggest using hardwood plugs wherever you have stressed screw areas, like strap buttons and bridge screws. You can use a hardwood dowel (like walnut) to make the plugs....it'll help keep screws from stripping out from the pine.

Anyway, rock it out....if I can help, let me know....

J. Crawford · #16 11-13-2010, 04:51 PM

I wish ya the best of luck Thomas. If you need me, all you have to do is ask. Im ecxited to see the X you put on this one..

billiam5billion · #17 11-13-2010, 04:56 PM

Humbucker at the neck, Jazz at the bridge.

Tommygunn · #18 11-13-2010, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J. Crawford

I wish ya the best of luck Thomas. If you need me, all you have to do is ask. Im ecxited to see the X you put on this one..

The other project took a lot of money man!

hahaha

This one is pretty much: trace, cut, sand, route, assemble, and spraypaint. I have my wood. I just need to find a tbird to trace! haha

And I have all I need for the project: soldiering iron, dremmel (spelling?) and table saw.

Tommygunn · #19 11-13-2010, 05:00 PM

Also to any long time builders ( I guess it be better if you've owned a thunderbird).

I want to make the body thinner, but I don't want to have it so much so that it neck dives. How much would I take off?

knucklehead G · #20 11-13-2010, 05:15 PM

If you don't want the neck to dive on a Thunderbird already made out of pine, you should thicken the body to about 4" and hang a brick off the end pin.

In all seriousness though, keep the body heavy and the neck light and position the strap button well and you'll still probably get some dive. I love Thunderbirds but I've never had one more than a week or two without it driving me nuts and getting returned.

If you get on this soon, it'll be fun to see how two inexperienced people try and turn pine and spraypaint into something awesome.. I just started mine yesterday.