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10-28-2011, 10:12 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: New York | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RutherfordBrave  My new to me SB-1. Believe it's about a '96 from the serial, but you would swear it just came from the factory. I've been loving this thing more every time I pick it up.
Finally got the SB-12 up and running too -- great pair! I might just have to try out some flats just to see what all the hype is   | Cool shot of a cool bass!
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10-28-2011, 10:59 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Puyallup, WA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by RutherfordBrave
Finally got the SB-12 up and running too -- great pair! I might just have to try out some flats just to see what all the hype is | TI flats sound spectacular on these basses. They're expensive but totally worth it for strings you can play for treats and they retain their tone. |
10-29-2011, 05:40 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Los Angeles | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RutherfordBrave My new to me SB-1. Believe it's about a '96 from the serial, but you would swear it just came from the factory. I've been loving this thing more every time I pick it up.
Finally got the SB-12 up and running too -- great pair! I might just have to try out some flats just to see what all the hype is | Wow ! Stunning ! |
10-29-2011, 08:25 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by fourstringbliss Ken Baker made this diagram: 
and it would allow for series/outer single/parallel. How would I change it so I could have series/inner single/parallel? I'm also using two DPDT on/on/on switches instead of one bigger switch.
Am I right in thinking that I would wire up the neck switch like the bridge one is here, and wire the bridge like the neck one is wired here? It would be single coil in the middle, right? | Ken didn't make the diagram, I adapted it from Ken's.
I don't know if your 2 x 2 pole switches are equivalent to the recommended 4 pole switch, you would have to get the switching data and compare them.
You are correct in thinking that if you wire the bridge pup as the neck and the neck as the bridge then you will get inners instead of outers.
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10-29-2011, 09:32 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Puyallup, WA | | | I thought I had checked the on/on/on switch functions but they're not working like I thought they would. The diagram Isaac using uses the stock series/parallel switch and a 4PDT on/on/on switch, which I split into two DPDT on/on/on switches. I know the series/parallel is the same so it must be the other ones. I might try to make the original one work or just go for the one you modified. Thanks for the help!
I have three switch holes available so I could have independent series/single/parallel switches, and then David Schwab (SGD) is working out a capacitor switch plan for me which will allow me to alter tone with a switch flick. This should work out pretty well!
Last edited by fourstringbliss : 10-29-2011 at 09:37 AM.
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10-30-2011, 09:13 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: State College, PA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RutherfordBrave | Jeeze, RB, this is one of the most stunning bass photos I have ever seen! Kudos.  |
10-30-2011, 02:13 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Ellicott City, MD | | Thanks for the comments on the pic, everyone -- this is what you get when your camera is worth as much as your bass setup  |
10-30-2011, 02:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Los Angeles | | I just noticed the U.S. flag on the pickguard .  |
10-30-2011, 02:28 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona, USA | | | only a reflection
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10-30-2011, 06:30 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Puyallup, WA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RutherfordBrave My new to me SB-1. Believe it's about a '96 from the serial, but you would swear it just came from the factory. I've been loving this thing more every time I pick it up.
Finally got the SB-12 up and running too -- great pair! I might just have to try out some flats just to see what all the hype is | That's what I call woodshedding! |
10-30-2011, 06:36 PM
|  | A Hard Rockin Lover of GREENBURST Moderator | | Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Where I lay my head is home | | Quote:
Originally Posted by zuma | Are they planning on bringing the new electronics into the ASAT model ?
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10-30-2011, 07:54 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: East Los Angeles | | | Who knows? They should! |
10-30-2011, 08:37 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Puyallup, WA | | If at first you don't succeed - check the dang switches first!!!!
I spent hours Wednesday and Thursday wiring up my bass for series/parallel/inner singles/outer singles only to not have it work. I figured something was wrong with my on/on switches and tried three different setups.
Finally, today, I check the on/on/on switches I bought from China and they work in reverse of the ones needed for the wiring diagram! I should have checked them out thoroughly first. I even made this same mistake with the same wiring diagram and the same switches two years ago!  |
10-30-2011, 10:18 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | | g&l with pickguard
look at the bridge... its g&l with a MM style pickguard Quote:
Originally Posted by jfh2424 Are you sure that's an L1000? It looks just like a Stingray.
John | |
10-31-2011, 02:34 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Aarhus, Denmark, Europe | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MAJOR METAL Are they planning on bringing the new electronics into the ASAT model ? | Before changing the electronics in the ASAT (and the L siblings) you could try to upgrade the caps in the preamp and also the ones soldered to the pots... This actually gives quite a LOT more clarity to the sound and the high frequencies opens up nicely...
The most important ones to upgrade are the ones directly in the signal path: Those are C2 and C3 in the schematic. The original caps are very low quality for signal coupling, and replacing them with good quality polypropylene types make a noticable difference.
You can see the new caps in the picture below: Yellow cap on the input (C3) and the larger 10uF output cap (C2) that is way to big to be on the preamp board, but fit's nicely into the cavity.
I waiting for delivery of the rest of the caps to upgrade the rest of the preamp section and also the bleeding caps on the pick up's and pots. I'll will bring an update on how the improve the sound...   
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Last edited by Morten_B : 10-31-2011 at 02:36 AM.
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10-31-2011, 03:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Puyallup, WA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by shaboda look at the bridge... its g&l with a MM style pickguard | And an MM style pickup - it has at least one screw ear, and MFD's don't have any. |
10-31-2011, 03:39 AM
|  | Never Satisfied | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Staten Island, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyMolson Digging the hawg! | Looks like a MM pup to me.
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10-31-2011, 06:53 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Puyallup, WA | | | It works!!!
I rewired my on/on/on switches and it all works! Now I have independent series/parallel/inner/outer for each pickup. I can have the neck in series and the bridge in either inner/outer single or parallel or series and I can also somewhat cop an MM/J tone by having the bridge in series and neck in single. Because I used resistors for the series jump wires there's now no noticeable volume jump between series and parallel. The only noticeable change is the dual volume control - the neck series switch is a push/pull 500k tone control which has brightened thing up just enough. Passive always sounded a little too dark to me but active was just a little to brassy - full up on the tone control now gives just enough brightness and brings out more growl.
Here's a pic of the finished product: 
Now I'll call it "The Swiss Army Knife".
Last edited by fourstringbliss : 10-31-2011 at 07:37 AM.
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10-31-2011, 04:30 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Somerset, New Jersey, USA | | | I've gotta say - it's L-series all the way for me. The M-series has such a generic look to my eyes. I'm hoping the playing feel and sound will win me back over. I don't know, I feel the distinct character of the L is the sound of G&L. I still need an L-2500...
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10-31-2011, 04:44 PM
| | Never Satisfied | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Staten Island, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MAJOR METAL Are they planning on bringing the new electronics into the ASAT model ? | Kev. There are no plans yet to do this.
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