Kala UBass Megathread, Part 5

[caeman]

After just one week with the PZ-DI, I think this thing can be the winner for someone that is looking for a one-box solution for their gigs.

[CaballoViejo]

Originally Posted by SBassman

Good question. I think we would need Kala to tell us, to know for certain.

Here's my guess:

I believe that the different colored acoustics were the last models announced by Kala. [Sunburst and Black acoustics] The pictures of those have slanted bridges.

Considering that AMJBASS's exotic mahogany U-Bass has a slanted saddle while 3234718's does not, I don't actually think Kala has a clue which way to jump. They talk about the U-Basses having "separate compensated saddles for each string" but, really, if they positioned (i.e. slanted) the saddle correctly in the first place there should be no need for this.

Judging by my own U-Bass, which I bought early 2010, having both a slanted saddle and separate compensated saddles is overdoing things and can cause intonation issues on the thicker strings whereby the note at the 12th fret ends up flatter than the harmonic.

[imperialbari]

The SUB with the very flat range on the upper frets of the G & D strings is on its way back to the supplier.

And then horror strikes my ears while trying out some new patterns all over the fretboard tonight on my acacia fretted acoustic. The tuning is odd and a check tells the 12th fret G being 5 or 10 cents flat, which it didn’t use to be.

Which parameters had changed during the period I mostly have played the fretless? Winter has come. I don’t turn up radiators very much, but humidity likely has dropped off.

After doing very primitive math with the fretboard length considered a constant I loosened the truss rod. Also put a knot on the G string to shorten it before a rewind.

I can bring the 12th fret G up to a perfect octave now. Only not every time despite meticulous efforts to use the same position and pressure of the fretting finger.

Why is the pitch to some degree erratic?

Klaus

[dougness]

Originally Posted by kevwalker

...
I have been gigging regularly with my Hogcoustic, first with the original Pahoehoes, and then with Thunderguts. I was getting ready to go to a gig on Friday when I noticed that the Thunderguts were, well, I'll call it "sausaging". I don't have the bass handy, but as I recall, it was the E and the A that had become non-uniform in terms of gauge. As I looked along the length of the strings, I saw them getting thin, then thick, then thin.

Is this old news, or something new and weird?

I don't remember any talk about "sausaging" happening with Thunderguts. But after reading your post, I decided to take a look at the TGs I've had on my U-Bass for a few months. Sure enough, all of the strings have stretched as you described. Sausaging is the perfect word for it.

I guess it's time to put on the Pyramids I bought during Kala's Thanksgiving sale. But even if I love the Pyramids, I'm going to want a second U-Bass with that great thumpy upright sound.

Like most of us here, I'm still waiting for someone to develop the perfect string for these basses.

[SBassman]

I need pics to comment on the sausaging.

Some people have thought they had a defect in the string when what they had was the string sticking in the nut, causing a stretch point. You always want to be lifting the strings out of the nut slots while tuning to keep this from happening.

[imperialbari]

Originally Posted by dougness

Like most of us here, I'm still waiting for someone to develop the perfect string for these basses.

I don’t disagree, but strings being the problem for an instrument developed solely on basis of the assumed usability of the original Pahoehoe’s is a bad situation when neither these or their 3rd party alternatives hold up in varying work and climate situations.

I have expressed enthusiasm over the sound and over the ergonomic aspects. But right now I am disappointed over having had to return a SUB and then experiencing tuning problems with my fretted acoustic.

Klaus

[caeman]

There is no one perfect string.

[3234718]

Originally Posted by caeman

There is no one perfect string.

I like everything about the stock strings except for how thin the G is. I ordered a low tension set from road toad so I can tune the D up to a G. Should be interesting.

Also, the word "sausaging" is fantastic.

[TimWatson]

Originally Posted by 3234718

I like everything about the stock strings except for how thin the G is. I ordered a low tension set from road toad so I can tune the D up to a G. Should be interesting.

Also, the word "sausaging" is fantastic.

Before you string up, check those. It is possible that they could be a different formulation. The different scales and gauges have been different materials in the past. Also different feel and tone.

Planning to go direct from U-Bass into the Firefly box Sunday. Yesterday it was Upright direct into the Firefly. Is was good. Maybe great, but not mind blowing. The Impedance load was pretty optimal for the upright pickup. I will report after Sunday and hopefully pry the PZ-DI out of Caeman's cold dead hands for my own demoing.

[3234718]

Originally Posted by TimWatson

Before you string up, check those. It is possible that they could be a different formulation. The different scales and gauges have been different materials in the past. Also different feel and tone.

Planning to go direct from U-Bass into the Firefly box Sunday. Yesterday it was Upright direct into the Firefly. Is was good. Maybe great, but not mind blowing. The Impedance load was pretty optimal for the upright pickup. I will report after Sunday and hopefully pry the PZ-DI out of Caeman's cold dead hands for my own demoing.

I'm just using the d string to tune up to g. Owen from road toad told me that the diameter of the low tension d is right between the diameters of the regular d and g, so it's thinner than a regular d but thicker than a regular g. I just put it on. To grt it through through the hole I sort of whittled the end of the string to a point so it would go through. Once it was through it went cleanly without much resistance. I got it up to f with wraps all the way down the post. I figure ill give it time and restring again and again till I'm up to g with minimal wraps. I don't think the increased tension would be a problem with the short and stubby neck, would it? It's still relatively low tension.

[dougness]

Originally Posted by SBassman

I need pics to comment on the sausaging.

Some people have thought they had a defect in the string when what they had was the string sticking in the nut, causing a stretch point. You always want to be lifting the strings out of the nut slots while tuning to keep this from happening.

This is not a problem at the nut. The sausaging occurs the length of the string. I thought I was feeling fret grooves in the string, but that's not what it is. It doesn't bother me as long as the strings play in tune. It does mean that there's a limited life to the strings of somewhat less than a year. I'm fine with that.

[dougness]

Originally Posted by caeman

There is no one perfect string.

...for the U-Bass, that's a true statement. I have no problem finding strings for my other basses that I'm blissfully happy with.

[caeman]

Spruce + fretless + pahoehoe strings = WIN

As my U-Bass continues to age and settle in, it continues to wow everyone at the churches I play. It shocks people with its awesome tone.

[AMJBASS]

Originally Posted by CaballoViejo

Considering that AMJBASS's exotic mahogany U-Bass has a slanted saddle while 3234718's does not, I don't actually think Kala has a clue which way to jump. They talk about the U-Basses having "separate compensated saddles for each string" but, really, if they positioned (i.e. slanted) the saddle correctly in the first place there should be no need for this.

Judging by my own U-Bass, which I bought early 2010, having both a slanted saddle and separate compensated saddles is overdoing things and can cause intonation issues on the thicker strings whereby the note at the 12th fret ends up flatter than the harmonic.

Sorry guys I should have gotten back to you sooner. Just working on a Christmas production right now(using the UBass on one song). I had a bit better intonation on the solid mahogany that I owned earlier this year. However the Exotic Mahogany bass sounds better. I am actually having a bit of problem with the E being too low volume but working on it...

[slaerts]

Hey guys reporting in. I've been amp hunting. Tried so many, downloaded so many manuals and spec sheets. The two winners are the AI Clarus and EA Doubler both have a hpf particularly good on the AI. I think I'm leaning towards the Euphonic Audio Doubler it held a nice balance for both acoutic u-bass and my electric bass (I've also a barefaced 12 cab on the way), I just had a few questions for the shop to get back to me on.
One curious thing I noticed is on a few different amps the E & A strings sounded quieter than the D & G, while on others it was fine. I'd never noticed it on my SWR Baby Baby Blue or my Yorkville bassmaster 50, or going DI straight to board using a fishman platinum bass or the LR baggs paracoustic di. Though I noticed some people have mentioned it as a problem when testing them in shops.

[caeman]

The speakers on the amps could have been attenuating the E & A frequencies.

[TimWatson]

Originally Posted by caeman

The speakers on the amps could have been attenuating the E & A frequencies.

Low A is 55 Hz. Most cabs roll off around there. But the volume should still be there. We usually hear the second harmonic louder anyway (one octave up). Most music stores are deadened acoustically and absorb some bass.

[Christofolo]

Hey fellow kala peeps lol

I got a U bass acoustic electric recently and noticed the E string sounds weaker and quieter than the rest, only when plucking though... Thumb downstrokes, it sounds fine. Has anyone else had this issue yet? Any input is appreciated!

Thanks

[imperialbari]

My take is that much of what we perceive as low range weakness is a matter of amplification (not an original view of mine as these discussions tell).

I got an EBS Session 60 that goes down to 60Hz. I was annoyed by missing the push of real frequencies when playing the low end of the E string, so I had cord made with female XLR and male phono plugs that connects the balanced exit from the EBS to a spare Yamaha subwoofer.

Good effect on the E string, but then I started hearing the A string an octave higher than its nominal frequency. Changing the pass filtering on the subwoofer cleared this problem.

Klaus

[Christofolo]

I see what you mean but pardon my ignorance as I have no idea on how to alter electrical equipment lol. Going by what you said you mean to say that the frequency being put out by the E-string is not being amplified properly?

I emailed Kala asking them about it, can only guess what they will say...